Bautbaut
New member
May give it a shot yet. Simple to change the chain and sprocket on the jackshaft. But it defeats the purpose as I needed/wanted higher road speed than my 5000rpm gx270 gave me.
Built gx200 not putting power I think it should?
- Thread starter Bautbaut
- Start date
Just because your putting more gear in with your 200 doesn't mean you will loose top speed. I also highly doubt 5000 rpm is even close to peak power band for that 200. 6500-7000 rpm is more like it, but you don't give us the cam specs so we don't know what the power band is?
Bautbaut
New member
Dyno Cams CM Grind Super X
INTAKE
LIFT: .265
Dur @ .050": 236.9 Deg.
C/L: 108 ATDC
EXHAUST
LIFT: .265
Dur @ .050": 236.5 Deg.
C/L: 108 BTDC
Have 1.3:1 ratio rockers and current timing flywheel is 28°
INTAKE
LIFT: .265
Dur @ .050": 236.9 Deg.
C/L: 108 ATDC
EXHAUST
LIFT: .265
Dur @ .050": 236.5 Deg.
C/L: 108 BTDC
Have 1.3:1 ratio rockers and current timing flywheel is 28°
Bautbaut
New member
I read that every extra tooth on sprocket will need 200rpm to gain same top speed?
Currently, have 10 sprocket off motor, 20 in jackshaft, 10 out and 40 on axle.. So..... 8.0 ratio.
Does 65 at 5000rpm...
Currently, have 10 sprocket off motor, 20 in jackshaft, 10 out and 40 on axle.. So..... 8.0 ratio.
Does 65 at 5000rpm...
That is a very large cam. The targeted rpm is 7500 rpm. At 5000 rpm you are just getting into the power band. Also that cam says it should have 30 degrees of ignition timing. I doubt having your timing at 28 degrees is hurting you that much but I would set it at 30 degrees. I'd also go to 10.0 gear ratio and see how it responds.
Bautbaut
New member
Think stock cam would be better for low end torque? I'd rather low end as it's. Much more use then road riding for top end
200cam-280.htm
This would be the best cam for low-end torque in a GX200. 280-0211 The stock cam would not be good.
This would be the best cam for low-end torque in a GX200. 280-0211 The stock cam would not be good.
Bautbaut
New member
That cam looks real nice, but I'm not spending more money on... Wife has had enough of my 'hobby' cost... should I change to a 24 tooth to change ratio to 9.6 so I hit powerband sooner? Or jump to a 26 tooth to jump to a 10.4 ratio? That's a quick easy change
wow. That's a lot of rpm to go thru before hitting the 'meat'
Bautbaut
New member
Not positive but believe it's red spring on tightest setting.?? Spring might be from a knock off as I can't find much for red spring.
I read a bit about weights to delay engagement? These replace the 'buttons'?
Or garter springs change engagement as well? Don't know much about these tbh
I read a bit about weights to delay engagement? These replace the 'buttons'?
Or garter springs change engagement as well? Don't know much about these tbh
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Well all he can do is increase his engagement rpm to help it on take off. That cam with a "targeted" rpm of 7500 is not going to start coming on till around 4000 rpm. All of your torque converter engagement is done in the drive clutch (the one on the engine). A combination between garder springs and weights determines the engagement rpm.
Bautbaut
New member
Thanks for the chart... Ordered aluminum weight and some white springs.
Now... Took it for a spin down the trail.... Finally get it up to speed at prob around 5000rom and it starts to sputter and bog and die. First time ive had it on long enough straight to get some speed. Was a pita to get started again (choke, no choke sputter etc) finally got going and ran great until I hit some speed again. Same thing again. This sound like too much fuel at high end? It's a mikuni 24mm flat so I know different stages uses different jets.
Couldn't check plug.. Had to get it going and limp home.
Now... Took it for a spin down the trail.... Finally get it up to speed at prob around 5000rom and it starts to sputter and bog and die. First time ive had it on long enough straight to get some speed. Was a pita to get started again (choke, no choke sputter etc) finally got going and ran great until I hit some speed again. Same thing again. This sound like too much fuel at high end? It's a mikuni 24mm flat so I know different stages uses different jets.
Couldn't check plug.. Had to get it going and limp home.
The only way to tell if it is flooding out or running out of gas is to pull the plug when it dies and see what it looks like. I find it hard to believe that the main jet would be so big that it would kill the engine. I would be willing to guess that you have a fuel delivery problem. Is your carburetor gravity fed or are you using a fuel pump?
Bautbaut
New member
Fuel pump... New walbro.
Thinking it was actually lack of fuel now. Pump originally had way too much pressure and kept overflowing carb so I split fuel line and ran half back to tank... Worked mint but maybe just not enough now for the high side rpm..
Edit: just ordered new needle and seat (1.5)as factory 2.5 not meant for use with fuel pump... Which is why it would overflow the bowl no matter how I adjusted the float...
Thinking it was actually lack of fuel now. Pump originally had way too much pressure and kept overflowing carb so I split fuel line and ran half back to tank... Worked mint but maybe just not enough now for the high side rpm..
Edit: just ordered new needle and seat (1.5)as factory 2.5 not meant for use with fuel pump... Which is why it would overflow the bowl no matter how I adjusted the float...
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Bautbaut
New member
Question is.... With new seat, can I just put fuel line straight to carb again (as in, will the new seat compensate for the crazy pressure? ) and eliminate the 't' I have in the fuel line?