Building monster go kart from scratch

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fowler

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no just go with 60

it will work but all u are doing is creating problems in the future

the sprockets will wear faster the chain will snap more regularly and so on
spend more now and less later
 

hotrodchevy83

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well i run 50 chain like motorcylce or 4 wheeler well i got it almost done hope i have pics posted soon got to fig out a way to keep the axle from goin under buggy when ya take off it is fully extending the shocks and raising the buggy any advice?
 

ryf

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grand scale, I would check to make sure your front wheel bearings and rear axle bearings are lubed and smooth in operation, if they are binding for any reason, the fronts will create drag and have this reaction, also check alignment for proper toe in/camber as much as possible, if you are plowing too much you WILL pitch forward. if the rear end is not properly smooth the force will be imparted on the path of least resistance, IE the suspension. if the distance between your axle pivot and drive gear is larger your going to have this no matter what you do as it will always try to pull the triangle in... a simple fix might be a longer but softer idler/tension spring for your drive chain. this will HELP, but not cure the problem, i would suggest you check all of the above BEFORE the chain tension changes mostly because these need to be right before you can worry about the little changes that this will provide, I would check toe in/out and bearings for proper smooth operation first, then look at the rest, good luck :)

lowering is caused by weight shift from the front suspension lifting and proper balance, he has more like what happens when you step on your cars brakes and hit the gas at the same time and the vehicle pitches forward usually.
 

hotrodchevy83

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well my shocks are mounted right in front of the axle center line about 2 inches from it but the way i have the buggy riding is the engine sits with a little angle sloped down to the back but when 2 people get in the swing arm frame and the frame sit level. I took some nylon strapping that they use to lift diesle truck engines with and made a strap that fit bolt to bolt on the whole lenght of the shocks on each side so when i take off they will tighten up and not push up havent tried it yet i assume it will work. bearings are brand new and spinning free in the front front end has a rough front end alignment but rides ok drove up to 50 mph so far rides smooth
 

ryf

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without pics, I would say put a strap limiter somewhere it wont interfere with the driveline and just ride it. if you have lifted it is probably an issue of the arm being past parallel being past, and when you hit the gas the shortest distance to forward in your driveline is under the frame not through it. if thats the case you need a strap and if its not the case then you need to get some photos of your setup so you can be helped. good luck :)
 

hotrodchevy83

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im working on the pics lol trying to finish up the 8 gallon fuel cell to put on it and gotta tune the motor due to pod filters and fabbed exhaust
 

ryf

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I missed the beginnings of this thread, but cool Idea on making it froma jetski, I made mine with a riding mower and tranny and was told it would be too slow or suck, or all kinds of things, I've hit 50 mph and it goes like hell, yes I have to pick gears well because its 17hp, but I can tell you what I used to tension my belts that is easy to get and replace, a belt tensioner off a chevy v8 flat/serpentine belt. I added an arm to it to add a clutch pedals I would have some leverage, it works awesome, and if you run two v-belts I am pretty sure you need two tensioners so they can be individually adjusted (connection to the pedal) for stretch. one other thing I would add is belt guards to keep them on when you push in the clutch and have deep pocket pulleys so it doesn't pop off as fast. should be a wicked ride have fun and good luck!
 
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