That expansion chamber looks awesome. I like how it wraps around the seat
Building a Race Kart
- Thread starter Mammoth
- Start date
- Status
Mammoth
Active member
It's so big if it were straight it would go past the rear bumper even without the muffler on.
I went to the races this Saturday and looked at the other pipes everybody was running and they all the had same one. Same shape, color and muffler on the same engine, which are CR500's.
Its an open class so they give the freedom to do whatever, but I don't think I'm going to blend in around there.
Have a lot more planned that is really going to make this kart an oddball.
I went to the races this Saturday and looked at the other pipes everybody was running and they all the had same one. Same shape, color and muffler on the same engine, which are CR500's.
Its an open class so they give the freedom to do whatever, but I don't think I'm going to blend in around there.
Have a lot more planned that is really going to make this kart an oddball.
I look forward to more oddballness!!
DirtyDamage
New member
This is really coming along! This looks awesome! Thing looks like it might melt some tires 
Mammoth
Active member
Built a muffler and a side cover that says Honda. I put Honda on it just to mess with the people at the track a little. I think its funny anyways.
Filled it with packing.
Mounted.
Filled it with packing.
Mounted.
Mammoth
Active member
Made a sturdy bracket to hold the expansion chamber.
Mammoth
Active member
Did a bunch of little things over the weekend.
Sand blasted then painted the expansion chamber with some heat dissipating paint, made wheel spacers for the offset of the front wheels, did lots of thinking and planning, match ported the cylinder to the cases, sent the cylinder and engine mount off to get cryo froze, pulled out the kick start shaft and made an aluminum plug for the hole where the shaft use to be.
This will be push start only from now on so taking the kickstart shaft and gears out took 2 pounds off the motor.
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Sand blasted then painted the expansion chamber with some heat dissipating paint, made wheel spacers for the offset of the front wheels, did lots of thinking and planning, match ported the cylinder to the cases, sent the cylinder and engine mount off to get cryo froze, pulled out the kick start shaft and made an aluminum plug for the hole where the shaft use to be.
This will be push start only from now on so taking the kickstart shaft and gears out took 2 pounds off the motor.
Mammoth
Active member
Late on updates, but Im still cranking on this. Pushing myself ragged, but Ive been doing that for this last year on all my projects, so I'm deep in this rut of mine.
Anyways, cut all these bars out of the roll cage.
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Replaced them with streamline 4130 chromoly tubing which cost upwards of $33 per foot.
This tubing is shaped like a teardrop and has 90% less wind drag than round tubing.
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Didn't want to cut out the main tubes of the roll cage because Id worry about strength issues on the welds, so I figured out how to make fearings in the desired shape. It was a bit tricky making them at first, but I got better.
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Got rid of this stock skid pan
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And made a proper one complete with diffuser.
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Put all the cylinder studs in the lathe and took out metal from the center giving them the hourglass shape. This helps with the stretch when tightened, keeps them from snapping at their weakest point which is where the threads end and the shank begins. It also helps keeps the nuts tight.
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Made some titanium bolts, and bought some nuts for the engine mount. The 14MM titaninum nyloc nuts are so light in your hand.
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Anyways, cut all these bars out of the roll cage.
Replaced them with streamline 4130 chromoly tubing which cost upwards of $33 per foot.
This tubing is shaped like a teardrop and has 90% less wind drag than round tubing.
Didn't want to cut out the main tubes of the roll cage because Id worry about strength issues on the welds, so I figured out how to make fearings in the desired shape. It was a bit tricky making them at first, but I got better.
Got rid of this stock skid pan
And made a proper one complete with diffuser.
Put all the cylinder studs in the lathe and took out metal from the center giving them the hourglass shape. This helps with the stretch when tightened, keeps them from snapping at their weakest point which is where the threads end and the shank begins. It also helps keeps the nuts tight.
Made some titanium bolts, and bought some nuts for the engine mount. The 14MM titaninum nyloc nuts are so light in your hand.
Mammoth
Active member
Coated the inside of the exhaust port with ceramic thermal barrier.
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Milled around the water pump 1/8 of an inch so the impeller had a tighter clearance increasing water flow which will intern keep the engine cooler.
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Its so close now it rubs without a gasket in it.
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Milled around the water pump 1/8 of an inch so the impeller had a tighter clearance increasing water flow which will intern keep the engine cooler.
Its so close now it rubs without a gasket in it.
not_a_bot
Tinkerer
I love your work. All I want now is to listen that beast roar.
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Flyinhillbilly
The great cornholio
This thing should be an amazing performer. Nice work.
Mammoth
Active member
Redesigned most of the wing. Had to rebuild the mounts twice before I was satisfied.
Painted the panels with a single stage paint and applied some number stickers. Nothing flashy. I'm trying to stay out of sight while I learn.
Still lots to do, but its starting to take shape.
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Painted the panels with a single stage paint and applied some number stickers. Nothing flashy. I'm trying to stay out of sight while I learn.
Still lots to do, but its starting to take shape.
68sportcoup
New member
That's awesome can't wait for some racing videos.
Are you allowed to have a wing that moves
Around here the big block supers the wing flattens out in the straights
For less drag then tilts when you lift
Are you allowed to have a wing that moves
Around here the big block supers the wing flattens out in the straights
For less drag then tilts when you lift
Mammoth
Active member
Yes, this wing has the ability to slide forward or backwards. There is a handle that gets mounted to the seat with a cable that goes to the wing.
With the dirt track conditions always changing throughout the race this gives you one last chance to make an adjustment while driving the kart.
With the dirt track conditions always changing throughout the race this gives you one last chance to make an adjustment while driving the kart.
Mammoth
Active member
Got a radiator made to fit on a dirt bike.
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Cut it to pieces.
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Turned it into a cross flow radiator to help with cooling.
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The stock radiator use to mount on the roll cage just above my knees. This one is going to mount to the left side of the seat.
Decided to make hard lines out of aluminum. Had to make 3/4" dies for the tubing bender just to do it.
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Made a reservoir at the highest point.
Also made a throttle cable.
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Cut it to pieces.
Turned it into a cross flow radiator to help with cooling.
The stock radiator use to mount on the roll cage just above my knees. This one is going to mount to the left side of the seat.
Decided to make hard lines out of aluminum. Had to make 3/4" dies for the tubing bender just to do it.
Made a reservoir at the highest point.
Also made a throttle cable.
tinamcjittles
ello m8
Your fabrication and dedication is amazing.. Have you taken this thing out for a top speed run yet? That engine is ridiculous!
Mammoth
Active member
I have to give credit to my friend Craig. His years of experience really guides my creativity. Together we are always scheming. This project is one of them.
I'm building my knowledge with these projects so I can use it on some future builds I've been planning for years.
Believe it or not I have some other motors that will be far more ridiculous than this one.
I'm building my knowledge with these projects so I can use it on some future builds I've been planning for years.
Believe it or not I have some other motors that will be far more ridiculous than this one.
Mammoth
Active member
I'd better update this thread before it gets locked.
The rear engine mount bolt stuck up so high it would rub the chain so I had to sink it down into the frame.
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Then covered it with some uhmw.
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Got the hydraulic clutch for it, and since it was designed for a dirtbike it had to be modifyed to fit under the steering wheel.
Had to cut off the original kart clutch handle and weld it to the new one.
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After tilting the seat so far back the front put too much pressure on the bottom of my thighs. Ended up reshaping the front to better conform to my body. A seat properly formed to your body can save you broken bones.
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The rear engine mount bolt stuck up so high it would rub the chain so I had to sink it down into the frame.
Then covered it with some uhmw.
Got the hydraulic clutch for it, and since it was designed for a dirtbike it had to be modifyed to fit under the steering wheel.
Had to cut off the original kart clutch handle and weld it to the new one.
After tilting the seat so far back the front put too much pressure on the bottom of my thighs. Ended up reshaping the front to better conform to my body. A seat properly formed to your body can save you broken bones.
Mammoth
Active member
I have a short deadline left on this one, and its going to be tight.
The stock body produced too much wind drag so in the spirit of the fourm I will just have to do it myself.
Made some jigs.
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English wheeled a bump for the expansion chamber.
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Made a left side wall.
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Put two bumps in it. One for my elbow and one for the radiator.
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The stock body produced too much wind drag so in the spirit of the fourm I will just have to do it myself.
Made some jigs.
English wheeled a bump for the expansion chamber.
Made a left side wall.
Put two bumps in it. One for my elbow and one for the radiator.
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