jamyers
Well-known member
Guy wants $60...says the starter needs work...
I'm seeing wheelies!
I'm seeing wheelies!
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Briggs.jpg
Briggs Twin Horizontal
- Thread starter jamyers
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Doc Sprocket
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Ooh! Jealous!
exenos
Project Nut
Heck, for what its worth I'd use a belt drive setup and bump start it. Great deal
Doc Sprocket
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The Briggs starters are decently easy to repair. I just picked up a nice Lawn Boy tractor with a 12hp Briggs flatty, only $45 with a bad starter. The Bendix gear was trashed, so I pulled the parts off a spare 18hp starter I had, and the tractor was up and running in minutes. A simple roll pins holds the Bendix gear on.
zbuck
New member
Not necessary so on the simple roll pin, some B&S starters used a variation of a c-clip to hold the drive on and without a special tool it is hard to remove that style of drive and then re-install.
Doc Sprocket
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Occasionally, yeah. I don't see too many of those. For every problem, there is a solution. Besides- where are we without challenges?
Doc Sprocket
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Looks like whoever took it out of the donor machine (tractor?) just loosely wrapped the wiring harness around the top.
jamyers
Well-known member
Update: brought it home for $40, the seller was the nicest guy just looking to clear out his shop.
He got it a couple years ago from an older guy who said it ran fine but then the starter died. The seller had to take the engine off the mower to get to the starter, and he found that one of the permanent magnets in the starter came unglued from the housing, that's why it's not working.
Everything else looks complete and in decent shape, I'm hoping I can maybe JB Weld the starter magnet back in, clean the carb, give it a once-over, and start it up. Then I need to figure out what exactly to do with it, LOL!
Model # 402417, flathead opposed twin, unknown hp (I'll be looking it up directly). Any thoughts about this find?
Oh yeah, the starter has the c-clip holding the gear on, and yup that's the wiring harness wrapped around the aircleanerhousing.
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He got it a couple years ago from an older guy who said it ran fine but then the starter died. The seller had to take the engine off the mower to get to the starter, and he found that one of the permanent magnets in the starter came unglued from the housing, that's why it's not working.
Everything else looks complete and in decent shape, I'm hoping I can maybe JB Weld the starter magnet back in, clean the carb, give it a once-over, and start it up. Then I need to figure out what exactly to do with it, LOL!
Model # 402417, flathead opposed twin, unknown hp (I'll be looking it up directly). Any thoughts about this find?
Oh yeah, the starter has the c-clip holding the gear on, and yup that's the wiring harness wrapped around the aircleanerhousing.
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Earlier variant of my motor (422447). I believe it is either a 16 or 18.
The starter is easy peasy to fix. The shell is like $55 so you should fix it. Space it out evenly and keep it secured (c-clamps). Use a good glue... not JB weld. Maybe a 2 part epoxy?
If you want to find parts for that, check out partstree.com.
If you want my true opinion... It is a horrible engine and you will never like it. You should send it to me to dispose of it properly. Horrible engine....
The starter is easy peasy to fix. The shell is like $55 so you should fix it. Space it out evenly and keep it secured (c-clamps). Use a good glue... not JB weld. Maybe a 2 part epoxy?
If you want to find parts for that, check out partstree.com.
If you want my true opinion... It is a horrible engine and you will never like it. You should send it to me to dispose of it properly. Horrible engine....
jamyers
Well-known member
I was afraid of something like that. I'd send it to you, only I'm a glutton for punishment and this is surely a penance I must do myself, LOL!
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zbuck
New member
Jamyers, that is a 40ci engine, could be 12.5/14 hp. Being a 81 it could be a points engine. Those oppy's have alot of torque.
jamyers
Well-known member
I haven't found anything definitive yet, most 402417's I see online seem to be 16hp, although I don't really care - it's got to be more than the 8hp I'm currently using.
Points? Yay-not. Might have to look for a points conversion kit...
Looking at online parts diagrams, looks like there's one magneto firing both cylinders with the typical wasted-spark-on-the-exhaust-stroke setup, just each cylinder fires on its opposite's exhaust stroke.
Any experience with this carb? Downdraft 1-bbl, built-in fuel pump, looks like mine has an adjustable main jet (again from online diagrams). Reminds me of the tiny 1-bbl Holley that used to come on Ford Falcon 144s...
I've ordered a Carb rebuild kit (they all include main needles), happily they're only $10-15 with shipping.
Also ordered a Briggs Twin-Cylinder Service Manual, found a used one on ebay for $11 shipped.
I'm thinking of putting it on the Texas Terror, using 2 centrifugal clutches - one on each end of the crankshaft, connected to 2 same-size axle sprockets. Gearing would be a good deal higher than it currently is, my thinking is that the engine has the torque, and 2 clutches would be able to transmit it. Otherwise it's time to save my sheckles for a Comet 40 or some other drivetrain...
Points? Yay-not. Might have to look for a points conversion kit...
Looking at online parts diagrams, looks like there's one magneto firing both cylinders with the typical wasted-spark-on-the-exhaust-stroke setup, just each cylinder fires on its opposite's exhaust stroke.
Any experience with this carb? Downdraft 1-bbl, built-in fuel pump, looks like mine has an adjustable main jet (again from online diagrams). Reminds me of the tiny 1-bbl Holley that used to come on Ford Falcon 144s...
I've ordered a Carb rebuild kit (they all include main needles), happily they're only $10-15 with shipping.
Also ordered a Briggs Twin-Cylinder Service Manual, found a used one on ebay for $11 shipped.
I'm thinking of putting it on the Texas Terror, using 2 centrifugal clutches - one on each end of the crankshaft, connected to 2 same-size axle sprockets. Gearing would be a good deal higher than it currently is, my thinking is that the engine has the torque, and 2 clutches would be able to transmit it. Otherwise it's time to save my sheckles for a Comet 40 or some other drivetrain...
Attachments
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Briggs Twin 002.jpg -
Briggs Twin 003.jpg
Doc Sprocket
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I'm quite reasonably sure that it's a 16hp. Post the rest of the Model/Type/Code info, and you'll know how old it is. first 6 digits of Code are YY/MM/DD
I've got my eyes peeled for one of those adjustable mains for my racer. Check the Cooling fan- If it's cast into the flywheel, it's pre-Twin II and likely has points. Don't change it. Points ignition produces a better, longer-duration spark then those retro-fit chips.
JB Weld will hold that magnet just fine. It IS a 2-part epoxy.
I've got my eyes peeled for one of those adjustable mains for my racer. Check the Cooling fan- If it's cast into the flywheel, it's pre-Twin II and likely has points. Don't change it. Points ignition produces a better, longer-duration spark then those retro-fit chips.
JB Weld will hold that magnet just fine. It IS a 2-part epoxy.
Doc Sprocket
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I think it is a pre- Twin II, and adjustable. Just can't get the pic blown up quite big enough.
EDIT- 99.999999% sure. Just had another look, as compared to mine.
EDIT- 99.999999% sure. Just had another look, as compared to mine.
jamyers
Well-known member
Thanks, guys! Now I just need work to go away so I can play in the shop all day long...
zbuck
New member
I have to correct my post.40ci's 12.5-16hp. 42 thru 46ci's are the higher hp engines. Theres not much to those carbs, the main problem is warp between the two halves. Some times the fuel pump will give you some static. In the 2nd picture, it looks like an adjustable main. The main gripe people have with those engines, is that they are gas hogs epecially if the r's have been turned up and the fact that the valve seats are prone to coming loose, especially the exhaust. TS, if you look at the picture in post# 10, it is an 81.
jamyers
Well-known member
Ok, since one spark plug has been out all this time in planning on yanking the heads just to check - reckon it'd help to stake the valve seats any, or would that hurt more than help?
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