Briggs Header Problem

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spudkilla224

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Hello everyone, I don't know if you have had this problem with your headers on your briggs, but I have the problem that when i screw the header into the block of my 5hp flathead, after about 5 minutes of riding it comes loose because the header un-screws. I do have a lock washer on it but it doesn't seem to work.

Does anyone have a solution to this problem? And would anyone have a 5 hp briggs flathead exhaust flange template?

Thanks

:confused:
 

tenlizard

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put some lock tight in the hole and then screw it back in and let in harden. that's the only thing i can think of right now.
 

Kaptain Krunch

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Lock tight comes loose with heat, if your reader is bent, you could make a bracket to hold it so it cant unscrew.
 

BAMBY

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hey, i had the same prob only it was a muffler that threaded in that would unthread itself. NEVER HAD A PROB AFTER MAKING THIS...

I assume your engine has a threaded exhaust port. Mine is for 3/4" black pipe. (homedepot, lowes... evreybody has it.)
this type of pipe is confusing, but 3/4" refers to inner diameter.(the outer diameter is around 1")


OK here was my fix... i thought why not utilize the threads and the screw holes??? (it only works if you can screw in your muffler and it wont hit the tank or watever else is there, or you could take all that stuff off, put/screw the muffler on, then put the stuff back on.)

if your header doesnt have a threaded end on it, buy a pipe nipple (small ~2-6" long section of pipe) and cut off one of the threaded ends and weld it onto the part of the header that goes to the exhaust.

now cut out a flange to match the exhaust port BUT MAKE SURE THE PIPE THREADS AND A LITTLE BIT OF THE HEADER CAN SNUGGLY FIT THROUGH THE CENTER.
see the picture of my flange...

ok put your new flange over the nipple threads/header, and screw the header threads in.

once it is screwed in all the way, move the flange toward the block, so that its flush with the exhaust mount area, and the screw holes line up. screw some screws in to make sure its right.

now, with the exhaust still attached as above, tack weld the flange to the pipe that is sticking out of it.

unscrew the flange screws so that the the exhaust can unthread from the block. finish weld the flange to the pipe.
see my other pic...





if someone doesnt understand, i dont blame ya!:confused:
just ask for pics cuz i did it to my minibike engine's exhaust(briggs5hp).

hopefully this isnt true...:useless:

good luck,
BAMBY--PICS LINKS IN POST ARE SAME AS ATTACHED ONES
 

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Kaptain Krunch

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One other thing i didnt think of was that pipe threads are tapered, so that they lock themselves, so if you cut off a little bit of your threads at the end (about 1/4" or so), you should be able to get it to lock itself in.
 

anderkart

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Some stock briggs mufflers used a pipe thread jam nut to keep the pipe from unscrewing.
(here's one for 3/4" pipe thread/they have other sizes too >: http://tewarehouse.com/7-03697;jses...e3eSc3qPbN0Te34Pa38Ta38Obh90?sc=2&category=36

This nut would first be threaded on and then after screwing the pipe in, the jam nut would simply be tightened up up against the side of the engine (w/a hammer and punch) to help hold the pipe in place.
 

BAMBY

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i know that the pipes are tapered like Kaptain Krunch said, and that jam nuts are used too like anderkart said.

These are both good ideas, however, those are the reasons i thought up my idea...:thumbsup:

due to the vibrations from the high rpm's, even the tapered thread muffler i had would back out with a jam nut... maybe thats cause i had welded another muffler onto the first one to make it extra quiet, but it just made more weight to help it get rattled off.

i would try the tapered thread and jam nut first though like kaptain krunch and anderkart said... they are cheaper and easier. who knows, maybe thats all you need to make your setup work! dont do more work than you have to.
 
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