Briggs And Stratton Pressure Washer Motor to Go Kart Help!

[Drewster]

Hello everyone, brand new to this forums, i decided to pick up a go kart (klipper) with a motor in rough shape for 30.00 and found a craftsman 5.5hp pressure washer motor today for another 30.00 and now im having trouble trying to figure out what the deal is with the pressure washer shaft, seems to have a bearing of some soft stuck on the shaft.. does this shaft slide off with some sort of trick or what? i feel like im going to break it with the force ive been using but it still wont budge.. any advice would be greatful! i added pictures of the pressure washer with that bearing piece connected to the shaft as well as the clutch and shaft from the motor that came with the kart so you know what im working with. thanks!

also, how do i connect the gas peddle cable to this throttle? i found the throttle lever on the motor but it barely moves when i use the slider on the outside...

PRESSURE WASHER MOTOR SHAFT





CLUTCH FROM OLD MOTOR





OLD MOTOR SHAFT

 

[OzFab]

Welcome to the forum.

First off, the easy parts:
-That clutch (just in case you don't already know) is one of two major components known as a torque converter.
-We really need to see the throttle assembly; although most are similar, some are very different

Now, to remove that pulley, first, drown it in PB Blaster & let it sit overnight. Next day, reapply PB Blaster while you set up a gear puller then lean on it for all it's worth. Sometimes they can be stubborn so, make sure it's a big, strong puller & don't be too quick to give up...

 

[anderkart]

Drewster does that part your trying to remove have any set-screws holding it on,

like this pic?

 

[Drewster]

thanks for the replies here are a couple pictures of the shaft and the throttle Assembly. Just sprayed more pb so hopefully that soaks in today and loosens it up. Let me know what you think how I should go about hooking the throttle cable to the motor thanks guys.

 

[Drewster]

Yes it does it has 1 allen screw on it. I took that out. And it does look exactly like that one. So I actually have a torque converter not a clutch?

 

[Half-breeder]

Yes it does it has 1 allen screw on it. I took that out. And it does look exactly like that one. So I actually have a torque converter not a clutch?

... Correct. You have the "driver" unit half of a 2 part, component. Lucky you... you have the more expensive half! If you take a side shot pic of that pully half(in the pic) that has the reddish, burgandy... We can tell you what series(model) it is, n you can get the matching "driven"... Looks like a 20 series but 'may' be a tav2...? Cant tell if that pully half is flat or beveled...

Also... I dont see the copper ring that slides on the pullys center...'that' is essential btw!

PS- Plz fill out your profile... and welcome.

 

[Drewster]

... Correct. You have the "driver" unit half of a 2 part, component. Lucky you... you have the more expensive half! If you take a side shot pic of that pully half(in the pic) that has the reddish, burgandy... We can tell you what series(model) it is, n you can get the matching "driven"... Looks like a 20 series but 'may' be a tav2...? Cant tell if that pully half is flat or beveled...

Also... I dont see the copper ring that slides on the pullys center...'that' is essential btw!

PS- Plz fill out your profile... and welcome.

Will do. I'll get it filled out tonight. I have the copper piece as well and I posted on here a bit ago but yet again has to be reviewed cause I'm new so hopefully a mod can approve it soon.. I will post pics of the torque converter when I get more pics. I'm not understanding a second part that you guys are mentioning cause the pics with the torque converter is everything that came off the old one excluding the copper ring that I forgot to include in the pics. I rented a puller so I'll keep you guys informed on how it goes later on today.

 

[firemanjim]

You have one part of a two part transmission. Now you only need a driven unit. That part is not always attached to the engine with the drive clutch.

 

[Drewster]

You have one part of a two part transmission. Now you only need a driven unit. That part is not always attached to the engine with the drive clutch.

Well Success! i was able to rent a puller from autozone and sure enough it started sliding off slowly and about 20+ turns it was off! looks like rust was the cause of it being stuck on the shaft. i put the torque converter assembly onto the new motor now. heres some pics. how does it looks guys?

 

[OzFab]

Well Success! i was able to rent a puller from autozone and sure enough it started sliding off slowly and about 20+ turns it was off!

Awesome

looks like rust was the cause of it being stuck on the shaft.

I could've told you that...

Did you clean & prep the shaft before fitting the driver?

 

[Drewster]

Awesome



I could've told you that...

Did you clean & prep the shaft before fitting the driver?

I sprayed wd 40 and some pb on the shaft and wiped it with a cloth. Seems like there a 1/4 inch or 1/8th gap where the gear is suppose to slide all the way on (notice the copper ring is free to slide side to side) but maybe it's right.. any suggestions on what to do with the hooking up the gas pedal cable to the motor?

 

[OzFab]

The cable outer is clamped at the green arrow with a clamp like the one in pic 1, the cable inner is fixed at the red arrow, then loosen the wing nut...

Re: Engine shaft, remove the driver, start the engine & hold a piece of emery cloth against the shaft, it'll be clean in no time then coat it with a smear of grease or anti seize before refitting the clutch assembly.

 

[zbuck]

I sprayed wd 40 and some pb on the shaft and wiped it with a cloth. Seems like there a 1/4 inch or 1/8th gap where the gear is suppose to slide all the way on (notice the copper ring is free to slide side to side) but maybe it's right.. any suggestions on what to do with the hooking up the gas pedal cable to the motor?

From the look of the picture, he put the driver on over the rust.

 

[Poboy kartman]

From the look of the picture, he put the driver on over the rust.

Yes, me too.... You should take it back off, polish the shaft with emery cloth and apply a thin layer of grease before reassembling.

 

[Drewster]

Yes, me too.... You should take it back off, polish the shaft with emery cloth and apply a thin layer of grease before reassembling.

Alright Thanks guys i will take it off and use some emery cloth and apply some grease and reassemble it again, does anyone know if that copper ring is suppose to be snug between the torque converter plates? or able to slide side to side (as shown in pictures 3 and 4 from my last picture post).

 

[Drewster]

Anyone?

 

[firemanjim]

Im pretty sure (which means i could be wrong) it should be all the way to the engine side. The part on the other side will compress towards the engine once you hit the throttle. There will be a slight gap as you see in the pic. Thats how much the clutch expands/contracts.....

 

[landuse]

does anyone know if that copper ring is suppose to be snug between the torque converter plates? or able to slide side to side (as shown in pictures 3 and 4 from my last picture post).

It should be fine the way it is now. If it is the same size as the gap, the 2 halves would not be able to move closer to each other when in operation

 

[Half-breeder]

The copper ring acts as a shielding race for the belt to ride on when the clutch is not engaged(idle). At Idle, the belt rests on the ring as the motor turns the driver, so it being loose and able to slide on the 'shaft' is proper... its when it doesnt spin/slide is when belts get eaten/burn grooved.