Hmmm cant honestly agree w/ 'this' logic(not that Im a mechanic...
i dont like pulling this card but i am
and i dont know about russ but he has enough experiace to be a dam good one
just a guy that believes in rules of thumb). The term breaking in period is just that... the period of a motor/cylinder/valve's life, that hones and heats up virgin cylinder walls/rings, valve/slide, and ensures proper seating of seals/moving parts. It's proven heated metal is stronger(if not over heated). Under a varying rpm/load, would cause a varying of seating(takes longer to 'break-in'), and could inevitably cause un-needed wear to the walls/rings, from the metal not, parsay, hardening.
the rule of thumb or common knowlegde is to vary the revs and load continuously
that what they do on the dynos doing numerous runs under a range of conditions
and how the car dealerships tell u to drive
just drive it like normal and go easy for the first 1k or what ever
and if the parts are not properly hardened by the time they are installed then failure is imminent
if u are changeing the make up of the steel during breakin then u would be severely over heating the engine
breaking in is to seat all the moving parts like rings to bores valves to seats and so on
its not unuseual to have high contamination on break in
I personally took my "NEW" motor, filled it up after bolting to the table, started it walked away... came back 3 hrs later, drained oil. Mounted fully on kart, chain and wheel connected, kart off the ground...ran 3hrs at half throttle... change oil. Next tank, same throttle(w/ driving/load), refill gas and run full throttle(driving), change oil(end of break-in period).
might have appeared to work
probably did
definitely not the recommended procedure
i wouldn't be surprised if your 10hr engine looks like my 40hr engine
iv run in a range of things from water pumps to 4x4 engines to $500'000 65lt dump truck engines
all manufactures make u follow differant procedures but all have the same basics