Box Trailer Revival

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OzFab

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I sourced mine from a 4x4 accessories store; they remove the stock spare carrier from Toyota Land Cruisers to fit long range fuel tanks. Mine cost me nothing (it helped to know someone who works for the company).

Some older model pickups used a similar mechanism, maybe hit some junkyards...
 

Doc Sprocket

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A bit of progress for today. I began by cutting two 2 1/4" lengths of 1 1/2" Sch40 gas pipe, and welding one to each side of the frame behind the wheel. Using the ring-mount tongue jack, I can service the bearings or change the tire at the side o' the road without digging through my vehicle for the crappy factory scissor jack...

I also dug into the loading ramp. It WAS just a big ramp that dropped down. Not anymore!!!

I began by whipping out the trusty grinder, and cutting the entire ramp in half lengthwise. Now, it's 2 ramps- left and right. I used a length of 1"x1/8" angle along the open side of each ramp. I did some experimenting towards the desired end result- ramps that could either swing down, or out- barn door style- depending on which hinge pins you pull out...

(Getting awfully close to calling it RoboTrailer...)
 

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Doc Sprocket

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...& the two meet in the middle?
Yes, they do. Although not finalized yet, there'll probably be about a 1/4" gap between them when closed.
Awesome idea, well executed :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Thank you. I'm having a lot of fun getting creative with "RoboTrailer" here (LOL). Had I stuck to convention, I'd surely be done by now. Then again- I am not a conventional kinda guy.
 

OzFab

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there'll probably be about a 1/4" gap between them when closed.

Perfect, just enough to swing independently

I'm having a lot of fun getting creative with "RoboTrailer" here (LOL). Had I stuck to convention, I'd surely be done by now. Then again- I am not a conventional kinda guy.

I hear ya brother :thumbsup: I'm exactly the same...
 

machinist@large

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A bit of progress for today. I began by cutting two 2 1/4" lengths of 1 1/2" Sch40 gas pipe, and welding one to each side of the frame behind the wheel. Using the ring-mount tongue jack, I can service the bearings or change the tire at the side o' the road without digging through my vehicle for the crappy factory scissor jack...

Move the mount just a little closer to the rear, and you have a handy means to control rear end dive of the platform while loading heavy/ dense cargo; think small skid loader/ Ditch Witch.

Dedicated trailers for that type of load use various styles of jacks/jack systems for just that.

I also dug into the loading ramp. It WAS just a big ramp that dropped down. Not anymore!!!

I began by whipping out the trusty grinder, and cutting the entire ramp in half lengthwise. Now, it's 2 ramps- left and right. I used a length of 1"x1/8" angle along the open side of each ramp. I did some experimenting towards the desired end result- ramps that could either swing down, or out- barn door style- depending on which hinge pins you pull out...

(Getting awfully close to calling it RoboTrailer...)

Yes, they do. Although not finalized yet, there'll probably be about a 1/4" gap between them when closed.


Thank you. I'm having a lot of fun getting creative with "RoboTrailer" here (LOL). Had I stuck to convention, I'd surely be done by now. Then again- I am not a conventional kinda guy.

:funnypost::kewlsmiley::lolgoku:

As the old saying goes, there is nothing new under the Sun...

You've got a good solid, basic design going there. If you really wanted to top it, scavenge the hinge mechanism from a mid '70's to mid '80's GM full size station wagon; they came standard with that two way hinge design. Plus, with those old full size boats, the 'gate wayed more than the piddling little ramps you're playing with.....:roflol:

:cheers2::thumbsup::popcorn: Pat
 

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Yeah- those dang doors WERE heavy! I had an '83 Caprice wagon several years ago. Freaking oceangoing freighter!

I can't move the jackpoints further rearward without re-engineering things- right now you've got enough clearance to avoid rapping your knuckles off the taillight bracket.

The ramps are surprisingly heavy and well-built. The EMM has got to be 1/8" thick!
 

machinist@large

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Yeah- those dang doors WERE heavy! I had an '83 Caprice wagon several years ago. Freaking oceangoing freighter!

I can't move the jackpoints further rearward without re-engineering things- right now you've got enough clearance to avoid rapping your knuckles off the taillight bracket.

The ramps are surprisingly heavy and well-built. The EMM has got to be 1/8" thick!

:funnypost::lolgoku::ack2:

Sounds like you've covered your bases fairly well, then....

:cheers2::thumbsup::popcorn:
 
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