Recon_Kart
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I did not have bolts thru the engine into the plate, but it represents the distance but the engine isn't quite square in the pictures.
Bolt on Engine Mounting Plate Adapter
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madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
scuse me, gonna go throw up
EDIT: Okay, better you than me with that mess. I can see what looks like splines in that axle through the rust, so the axle sprocket should be able to slide an inch. I wouldn't bother though, the only word in my head is distance. Between the motor and the axle sprocket, plenty of it.
I get it you're not in a position to fab stuff up, but anybody can work with wood. I'd cut up some 2 x 4"s and thick plywood, make a box about 8" tall (all screws of course, no nails), and drill some holes in it. Bolt it down to the motor mounting plate, bolt the motor on top of it. Work in a chain adjuster somewhere, maybe make the whole box slide with the adjuster already built into the front of the mounting plate.
Let the TC hang down over the side of the box, line it up, put a chain on it. No metal fab required.
EDIT: Okay, better you than me with that mess. I can see what looks like splines in that axle through the rust, so the axle sprocket should be able to slide an inch. I wouldn't bother though, the only word in my head is distance. Between the motor and the axle sprocket, plenty of it.
I get it you're not in a position to fab stuff up, but anybody can work with wood. I'd cut up some 2 x 4"s and thick plywood, make a box about 8" tall (all screws of course, no nails), and drill some holes in it. Bolt it down to the motor mounting plate, bolt the motor on top of it. Work in a chain adjuster somewhere, maybe make the whole box slide with the adjuster already built into the front of the mounting plate.
Let the TC hang down over the side of the box, line it up, put a chain on it. No metal fab required.
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Recon_Kart
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That is the factory axle sprocket. The factory TC seems to have been custom to that machine and I cant seem to find any parts.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
If you raise the motor way up above the axle sprocket and anything else in your way, the TC can be on the motor any way you want. Look at the pic of my motor sitting so far above the jackshaft that my TC is hanging straight down. Put your TC any way you want it, and raise it up above the other stuff on the kart. Slide a box in between the two and bolt it down.
Recon_Kart
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Thanks. I wasnt sure if wood would hold up for someone like that.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Open attached pic and click on it again to magnify. See the extra-long slots cut into the engine mounting plate? Look at the jackshaft underneath, see how long the chain is from TC to jackshaft? As long as your engine is mounted up high with the TC output sprocket aligned with the axle sprocket, and it can slide forward/backward on slots of some kind, you can get your chain tightened up properly.
Just be sure to have a bolt somewhere like what's built in already in front of your engine that moves the engine forward/back in the slots, and that bolt will keep the motor from sliding when tightened. Too many folks rely solely on how tightened down the motor mounting bolts are to keep the chain from loosening. A bolt stops it cold from moving.
See the 9/16" bolthead in the center of that red crossbar right behind the motor? That's a nut welded to the end of a 15" piece of threaded rod going to the motor's front mounting bolts area. Bolthead stays put, but when turned clockwise it draws the motor backwards, tightening the chain, and preventing the motor from ever moving forward until I'm ready to loosen it.
Just be sure to have a bolt somewhere like what's built in already in front of your engine that moves the engine forward/back in the slots, and that bolt will keep the motor from sliding when tightened. Too many folks rely solely on how tightened down the motor mounting bolts are to keep the chain from loosening. A bolt stops it cold from moving.
See the 9/16" bolthead in the center of that red crossbar right behind the motor? That's a nut welded to the end of a 15" piece of threaded rod going to the motor's front mounting bolts area. Bolthead stays put, but when turned clockwise it draws the motor backwards, tightening the chain, and preventing the motor from ever moving forward until I'm ready to loosen it.
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Recon_Kart
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I'm waiting to hear back from Go Powersports on the dimensions of this plate https://www.gopowersports.com/mega-moto-80-105-adjustable-motor-mount-kit/
I need to know if it will fit my current plate and what the added height will be.
I need to know if it will fit my current plate and what the added height will be.
Recon_Kart
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I'm curious, when you swapped the Mitsubishi for the predator did you keep the factory axle sprocket?
Denny
Canned Monster
Wood will not hold up for mounting an engine. Square tubing with at least 3/16” wall will though.
panchothedog
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Yes, I kept the stock sprocket in the stock location. I assume it was the stock sprocket. It had to be the way it is machined to fit the hub. The predator might be taller than the Mitsubishi. I know what you are saying about the stock torque converter that was on it, a one of a kind. I have never seen one like that before,and mine was completely locked up. I had to cut it off. The reason I threw out the Mitsubishi was that after doing a little research there seemed to be no
performance parts available for it and I have teenage grandsons and they want fast so l knew 6 hp wasn't going to cut the mustard, plus predators are cheap and easy to hop up. The reason I said that maybe the predator is taller than the Mitsubishi is it looks like you have a height clearance problem as well as a side line up problem. I only had a side to side problem and the motor plate I mentioned took care of that. The plates from OMB warehouse and Go Power Sports are exactly the same. BTW the sprocket on my kart is 60 tooth and the drive sprocket on my torque converter is a 10 tooth
performance parts available for it and I have teenage grandsons and they want fast so l knew 6 hp wasn't going to cut the mustard, plus predators are cheap and easy to hop up. The reason I said that maybe the predator is taller than the Mitsubishi is it looks like you have a height clearance problem as well as a side line up problem. I only had a side to side problem and the motor plate I mentioned took care of that. The plates from OMB warehouse and Go Power Sports are exactly the same. BTW the sprocket on my kart is 60 tooth and the drive sprocket on my torque converter is a 10 tooth
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Denny, that should definitely be anybody's first thought about wood, more so that I wasn't really descriptive about it. What I was actually talking about was 2 x 4's and 5/8" plywood, lots of it, to make a little box just a foot square and 8" tall. It'd weigh about 15 lbs., and could be used as a car's jackstand. My Dad kept a couple of them he made in the back of the carport for just that.
Recon has said he'd prefer not to fab anything for the lack of tools to do so, wants to do straight bolt-up, and his extreme situation with that barf-worthy setup calls for really raising that motor up high. That only leaves sawing and screwing a rock-solid wood box as a motor spacer.
Recon has said he'd prefer not to fab anything for the lack of tools to do so, wants to do straight bolt-up, and his extreme situation with that barf-worthy setup calls for really raising that motor up high. That only leaves sawing and screwing a rock-solid wood box as a motor spacer.
Denny
Canned Monster
There is a big difference between a car and a moving, vibrating trying to shift engine. It will chew through the wood like a termite. Slowly but surely. Never be able to keep the engine tight enough. If he has a drill for the wood then he has a drill for steel. He only needs a hacksaw to cut it.
Recon_Kart
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I have some tools to fab stuff, just no welder. I would prefer prefabbed bolt on as that seems the easiest and less time consuming. Beside big box stores bad selection, I dont have access to steel materials locally.
I blocked up the engine with 2, 2x4s which essentially raised it by 3" since 2x4 measure 1.5" thick. This gives me enough clearance height wise, but I would still need a fully adjustable plate in order to move the engine side to side.
I blocked up the engine with 2, 2x4s which essentially raised it by 3" since 2x4 measure 1.5" thick. This gives me enough clearance height wise, but I would still need a fully adjustable plate in order to move the engine side to side.
Recon_Kart
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I see go powersports sells 1" square tubing as engine risers, if only they were 2". But realistically about $20 for the 1" riser and $75 for the plate that I linked above. Which I don't necessarily want to spend that much. I'm trying to track down some 2" square locally to use as risers, then get the $75 plate from go powersports.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Any Home Depot or Lowe's in your area? They have loads of short (2' - 6') square tube steel. You can always drill through and bolt up a pair of tubes stacked together for height.
Instead of hunting for and paying for those long bolts, just get threaded rod in the same tube steel department and cut your own. Double-nut one end to be the bolt "head". Personally, I double-nut the nuts I put on all my ordinary bolts to guarantee they'll never loosen up from vibration, but others here still laugh at me for it.
Instead of hunting for and paying for those long bolts, just get threaded rod in the same tube steel department and cut your own. Double-nut one end to be the bolt "head". Personally, I double-nut the nuts I put on all my ordinary bolts to guarantee they'll never loosen up from vibration, but others here still laugh at me for it.
Recon_Kart
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I think I'm going to take that route if I cant find 2" - 3" square tubing. Then I can just run with a $30 adjustable plate to mount on top of the square tube. I know someone who may be able 5o come by with his 110 welder to weld the square tubing to the kart then bolt on the adjustable plate.
panchothedog
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Recon Kart
Finding large steel tubing can be a problem,and then they want to sell you a
25' piece and you only need 2'. I have had good luck with a welding shop a couple of miles from my house. He is not in the business of selling steel but for $10 - $15 he sells me something he probably paid $3 for and for a couple of bucks more cuts it to the length I want. If you don't have or can't find a welding shop a shop that does rought-iron work or builds metal fending should be able to help you. I am with Denny on this one. Keep it made of steel.
Finding large steel tubing can be a problem,and then they want to sell you a
25' piece and you only need 2'. I have had good luck with a welding shop a couple of miles from my house. He is not in the business of selling steel but for $10 - $15 he sells me something he probably paid $3 for and for a couple of bucks more cuts it to the length I want. If you don't have or can't find a welding shop a shop that does rought-iron work or builds metal fending should be able to help you. I am with Denny on this one. Keep it made of steel.