Bolt holding clutch on crankshaft keeps loosening

[Doc Sprocket]

It should go all the way on. What prevents it from doing so?

 

[chuggins08]

the drum part does not fit over the shaft, it gets bolted onto the end of the shaft. The inner part of the clutch, which contains shoes and springs, can go all the way on, but how would the clutch work then?

 

[Russ2251]

I get it.
Clutch housing bore end is smaller diameter than shaft so that, in effect, it bottoms out.

 

[chuggins08]

correct

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Okay- If I am comprehending correctly, it is done on that model because of the low tooth count, which makes for a smaller sprocket diameter. I would be awfully inclined to cut a sleeve/spacer out of some tubing that will take up MOST of the rest of the free space on the shaft (leaving maybe 1/32" free play).

EDIT- Russ... Whaddya think? Sleeve? No? I have not used such a clutch.

 

[chuggins08]

could that be why the bolt is loosening? Cause there is so much of a gap between engine and clutch?

 

[Russ2251]

Russ... Whaddya think? Sleeve? No? I have not used such a clutch.

I have an old 1" bore Comet clutch which is very similar to his Noram Enforcer and I don't use a sleeve...except for the fact that my PTO is 7/8". I had to make up the difference and does not extend all the way down shaft. This is best pic I could find of said setup:

 

[chuggins08]

So what should I do?

 

[OzFab]

Umm, no! You don't use the set screw as the key, you tighten it down on the key. Furthermore, the bolt you're using in place of the second set screw will be causing all manner of problems. Take everything apart & start again using the correct hardware

 

[Doc Sprocket]

I think that as long as the drum is shouldered securely to the end of the shaft, you should be okay without any spacers or anything. I am really wondering what's there, though. The bolt (and any hardware associated with it) should NOT apply or encounter ANY friction to the clutch drum. Since the drum spins toward "loosen", I suspect something is wrong. You tighten it down with a pipe wrench (ecch!) and the bolt blows back out in a heartbeat. Something isn't right.

 

[chuggins08]

the clutch did not come with a key...

 

[mckutzy]

Is there a keyway milled in the bore to accept a key?

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Does it have a slot in it for a key? It should. Hardware stores carry key stock. Buy a length, cut to size with hacksaw or grinder.

 

[chuggins08]

so those things described above are prolly the things causing the bolt to back up?

 

[Doc Sprocket]

yes. I do think so. Especially what I said in post #30 with relation to friction on the bolt.

 

[Russ2251]

This pic should clear things up.
As usual, there is a snap ring which holds c-clutch together.
When bolted to engine, washer butts up against clutch shaft.
Clutch shaft, from what I can tell, has a key way. Probably .25"?
As far as grub screws go...not all of them are located over key. Mine are not.
A point here that has not be mentioned. Keys come in oversize as well as under size. I choose the oversize so that I can customize them to fit.

The only way that I can reason that bolt loosens is because key is missing thus allowing clutch shaft to move on PTO.
If this is the case, then clutch shaft and/or PTO may be damaged.
By the way...the Noram Enforcer is a $200+ item!

 

[chuggins08]

I am going to get correct set screw, some key stock, and re-do everything including making sure the cranshaft is dry when I put loctite on the bolt to hold the drum on. I will try to do this tomorrow after class, and i will test drive it again tuesday to see how it goes. Hopefully this will fix it.

 

[chuggins08]

What is the PTO?

 

[Russ2251]

What is the PTO?

Power Take Off
End of shaft that clutch is fastened to.

 

[chuggins08]

Ok, well ill get back with yall in a few days and tell yall how it went. thanks for all the help!