Body Panel Material?

SquidBonez

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What are some good body panel materials to use? Ideally ones that come in a sheet. I want something that I can bolt on/off. This will be for an off road kart just to keep some of the mud/dirt off of me and just to add some space for a design. I want to keep it lightweight but still rigid enough so it doesn't wobble when I move. Plywood? Some sort of plastic (do they sell rigid sheets of plastic)? Avoiding metal if possible since it's heavy.
 

Bansil

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If it wobbles....bead roll it :sifone:

It's a gage issue more than a material issue, needs to be stiff so vibrations, flex, air flow etc does turn it into a bass drum.

.030 6061/5053 or 2024 al. Will move as much as HRS/CRS steel will in .030..

So rolling beads into the material will stiffen it, heck just adding extra screws and rtv/silicone may make a difference that suits you
 

madprofessor

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Attaching to round tube, square tube, wood, what? Are you wanting enough panel to enclose the pedals area in a nose cone, your entire legs area, the sides, or really just some fully encompassing wheel wells to catch anything the tires may splash or throw?
Offroad kart means suspension travel. Is the rear a swingarm, or does each rear wheel have independent suspension? How much max travel on the front suspensions? Facing the offroad wheel well dilemma myself.
 

SquidBonez

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Attaching to round tube, square tube, wood, what? Are you wanting enough panel to enclose the pedals area in a nose cone, your entire legs area, the sides, or really just some fully encompassing wheel wells to catch anything the tires may splash or throw?
Offroad kart means suspension travel. Is the rear a swingarm, or does each rear wheel have independent suspension? How much max travel on the front suspensions? Facing the offroad wheel well dilemma myself.
Just one body panel to cover the front of the roll cage. No issues with clearance regarding suspension travel. And it will be attached to square tubing. Also might do a bolt on floor pan rather than welding one on. Also allows me to do aluminum for the floor pan and save weight.
 

madprofessor

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Use any metal material you can get and afford. Also get some of the narrowest and cheapest peel-and-stick foam door/window weather stripping they have at your local hardware store.
Stick one row of the foam strip to the square tube before laying the panel on it. That will eliminate the aggravating rattling of the panel on steel that you get when using thinner material and less screws. So that you can use thinner material and less screws.
Forgot to do it on my own very stiff 16 gauge sheet metal floorpan, rattle was louder than the stereo. Had to pry it up a bit, wedge it open, squeeze in some tub caulk, let harden overnight before freeing it up again.
Or you can just stretch some heavy mil clear visqueen across the tubes, seal it down with 2" duct tape from corner to corner.
 

OPmini

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What are some good body panel materials to use? Ideally ones that come in a sheet. I want something that I can bolt on/off. This will be for an off road kart just to keep some of the mud/dirt off of me and just to add some space for a design. I want to keep it lightweight but still rigid enough so it doesn't wobble when I move. Plywood? Some sort of plastic (do they sell rigid sheets of plastic)? Avoiding metal if possible since it's heavy.
1/4in plastic sheets will work well: McMaster-Carr
benefits of plastic is its soft and can flex, and be heated with a heat gun to shape
downside: can crack, hard to cut, can be melted if too close to hot engine

Benefits of sheet metal: light, looks cool, easily painted
Downside: rusts, jagged edges can cut you, prone to puncture/ dents, makes lots of noise when rattling
 

Bansil

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1/4 plastic won't bend like you need, the cheap plastic used for bathroom walls is pretty good and flexible, maybe 1/32 thick.
Bad news is you will have experiment with paint and adhesive and it is not uv tolerant.
 

madprofessor

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Own a heat gun, like a 1500 watt dual-range w/.75" round nozzle? 1200 watt hair dryer can be used in a pinch, but very slow and inaccurate. Talking about clear 1/4" PETG sheets in various sizes from McMaster-Carr in the link from OP. That stuff can be rounded over a barrel, over a bent piece of sheetmetal, and even over the backside of a piece of angle iron to make great 90 degree bends or less than 90 if desired.
Great stuff to make a custom flowing body shape for a kart, limited only by your imagination and wallet. Wallet Note: Unless you know exactly what size and shape you want to make, 2 smaller pieces that will do the job will in the end be the thriftiest route over the expensive large sheets.
Cautions: Never cut it with a reciprocating saw (Sawzall), use a circular saw with a paneling blade for straight cuts, and GO very SLOW, pressing down firmly with the saw's deck. You can use a jigsaw (I know, it reciprocates!) with a SCROLL blade for curves and cutouts if you press down very firmly and never lift up while running. Use a scroll wood blade with no less than 16 TPI, I'd advise 24 TPI, but 32 TPI (if available, is actually for metal) while slow is less of a risk of making mistakes.
You said you wanted to bolt it on/off. Use a tile and ceramics drill bit for making the mounting holes. Or hold it on with removable metal trim around the outside edges. Don't forget the foam strip between sheet and steel.
 

OPmini

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Own a heat gun, like a 1500 watt dual-range w/.75" round nozzle? 1200 watt hair dryer can be used in a pinch, but very slow and inaccurate. Talking about clear 1/4" PETG sheets in various sizes from McMaster-Carr in the link from OP. That stuff can be rounded over a barrel, over a bent piece of sheetmetal, and even over the backside of a piece of angle iron to make great 90 degree bends or less than 90 if desired.
Great stuff to make a custom flowing body shape for a kart, limited only by your imagination and wallet. Wallet Note: Unless you know exactly what size and shape you want to make, 2 smaller pieces that will do the job will in the end be the thriftiest route over the expensive large sheets.
Cautions: Never cut it with a reciprocating saw (Sawzall), use a circular saw with a paneling blade for straight cuts, and GO very SLOW, pressing down firmly with the saw's deck. You can use a jigsaw (I know, it reciprocates!) with a SCROLL blade for curves and cutouts if you press down very firmly and never lift up while running. Use a scroll wood blade with no less than 16 TPI, I'd advise 24 TPI, but 32 TPI (if available, is actually for metal) while slow is less of a risk of making mistakes.
You said you wanted to bolt it on/off. Use a tile and ceramics drill bit for making the mounting holes. Or hold it on with removable metal trim around the outside edges. Don't forget the foam strip between sheet and steel.
^ this

PETG would be a very good material choice, very durable. For paint try Rustoleum painter's touch, works well on plastic.
 
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