Best bearings?
- Thread starter Ross24
- Start date
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Howdy Ross24,
We got's us a bearing guy (Master Hack)
...so, be patient
...& hopefully he will chime in (soon)
...to lay some of his wisdom on ya
But,
Ya might wanna post just a bit more info
...like what kinda kart you have
...& maybe an example of the bearing (in question)
We got's us a bearing guy (Master Hack)
...so, be patient
...& hopefully he will chime in (soon)
...to lay some of his wisdom on ya
But,
Ya might wanna post just a bit more info
...like what kinda kart you have
...& maybe an example of the bearing (in question)
Sure, it's some old manco one wheel peel. The bearing I'm talking about is a 5/8 ID X 1-3/8 and it is slides right into the wheel and around the axle, allowing the wheel to spin.Howdy Ross24,
We got's us a bearing guy (Master Hack)
...so, be patient
...& hopefully he will chime in (soon)
...to lay some of his wisdom on ya
But,
Ya might wanna post just a bit more info
...like what kinda kart you have
...& maybe an example of the bearing (in question)
Master Hack
Well-known member
If you want waterproof bearings, be prepared to pay around $300 each.
Fact is bearings are not waterproof cuz they are steel. The above mentioned bearings are not steel and cost a little more.
Fact is there are no good bearings on amazon.
buy cheap ones and keep em dry.
Fact is bearings are not waterproof cuz they are steel. The above mentioned bearings are not steel and cost a little more.
Fact is there are no good bearings on amazon.
buy cheap ones and keep em dry.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey T,
I think the OP just wants some new "good" wheel bearings, for his kart
...& not them stamped steel, low speed, hand trucks bearings, filled with Yak grease
Maybe something like the 99502 bearings?
I think the OP just wants some new "good" wheel bearings, for his kart
...& not them stamped steel, low speed, hand trucks bearings, filled with Yak grease
Maybe something like the 99502 bearings?
Master Hack
Well-known member
Hes looking for bearings on amazon, so probably not. 99502H is a common size, amazon will have those for a couple a bux each. Those are good enough for kart use.
Performance bearings are WAY more money. A ceramic hybrid (high performance, low friction) bearing is $50+ and still not waterproof. There is little in between.
Performance bearings are WAY more money. A ceramic hybrid (high performance, low friction) bearing is $50+ and still not waterproof. There is little in between.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey T,
I noticed that BMI karts has these (~25.00 ea.)
Ceramic High Speed Wheel Bearing
Dimensions: 1 3/8" OD x 5/8" ID
https://www.bmikarts.com/Ceramic-High-Speed-Wheel-Bearing-58-ID_p_1606.html
Precision Ceramic Wheel Bearings:
- Faster ET's and Lap Times - Ceramic bearings have 1/10th the friction of steel which means faster ET's and lap times! Can you push your car with one hand?
- 60% Lighter Weight - Silicon Nitrate balls weigh 60% less than steel balls of the same size. Reduce your bearing rotating weight!
- Longer Life - Ceramic Bearings last up to 5 times longer than steel!
- Cooler Running - Ceramic Bearings have no micro weld adhesion between the balls & races which means lower friction. Ceramic also has a lower amount of thermal expansion which also reduces temperatures. Bearings run cooler and vibration levels are lower at high RPM
- No Special Handling or Cleaning - If they get sluggish rinse with paint thinner, put a drop of oil in and go racing!
- Dimensions: 1 3/8" OD x 5/8" ID
- 99502H stamped on bearing
Rat
Well-known member
I used to creek ride my bicycles in the early summer, I'm talking 700c/58 and all bearings but the steering occasionally being totally submerged with loose ball/cage free, typical cup and cone type nothing really fancy. NEVER ONCE EVER did my bearings rust or fail despite the amount of water pouring out of the frames [aluminum] as I came up on the banks.
It's not really about whether you have top shelf or cheaper bearings, it's about how you take care of them that decide how well they will function and last; though I admit there are some horrendous bearings only fit for using as slingshot ammo.
If you want your bearing to last, and be somewhat waterproof (more like extremely water resistant) they you need to jam them full of quality grease... something like an industrial brake and bearing grease.
Some rubber hubcaps like they put on lawnmowers would assist keeping the water out as well as the grease in If you can figure out what ones would fit the wheel hubs.
It's not really about whether you have top shelf or cheaper bearings, it's about how you take care of them that decide how well they will function and last; though I admit there are some horrendous bearings only fit for using as slingshot ammo.
If you want your bearing to last, and be somewhat waterproof (more like extremely water resistant) they you need to jam them full of quality grease... something like an industrial brake and bearing grease.
Some rubber hubcaps like they put on lawnmowers would assist keeping the water out as well as the grease in If you can figure out what ones would fit the wheel hubs.
Master Hack
Well-known member
Can you guess the country of origin?
There are so many types of materials, classes of materials, classes of precision within those materials, then classes precision bearings, we could talk about this all week. On the surface it may appear that a bearing is a bearing, but believe me there is more to it than that. Every one has heard of ABEC ratings, that is one classification precision. We could talk about raceway curvature, contact angle, pitchline and a few design considerations. There are still cheap bearings and good bearings and wannabe good bearings.
Worst thing you can do to a high speed bearing.
Sorry, my outlook on this subject is skewed. Been dealing with this s**t too long.
Poor quailty disgusts me.
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Denny
Canned Monster
How can grease be bad? Too thick? Explain it, I want to learn!
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey T,
You just gotta keep the application in mind
Your average go karter isn't very interested in ~$200.00 bearings
...even if they are super high quality
They just want the wheels "to spin"
...& kinda smoothly, is way better than the old warn out bearings (that don't work anymore) they currently have
Hey Denny,
Too much of anything is bad (sugar, water, excitement for old folks etc.)
Too much grease, in a bearing, is like having your mouth too full of food
...which makes it difficult to "function" or chew
Master Hack
Well-known member
Understood, thats why I said use the $2 amazon bearings and keep em dry.
On the other hand there is a reason why the guys with 2 million dollar motorcycles do not use $2 amazon bearings.
The simple explaination is it traps heat. Yak grease makes it even worse. If you want more:
Calculating Grease Quantity, Frequency
To calculate grease quantity, you need the bearing's physical dimensions (primarily the outside diameter and width).
www.machinerylubrication.com
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Denny
Canned Monster
I figured it was more like the rollers would not spin or something like that.
Master Hack
Well-known member
Good guess, there are several reasons. What you are referring to is ball skidding. 'nuff on that!
Denny
Canned Monster
Guys, how do I take care of these bearings? I feel like no matter I do, they just go bad. On the drive wheel itself, I go through so many bearings I gotta be doing something wrong. I've been keeping them dry, but still have to replace them like all the time. What's funny is I have yet to replace any bearings except for the ones on the drive wheel.
Also, what's the difference between "99502H-NR" and "99502H"?
Also, what's the difference between "99502H-NR" and "99502H"?
Rat
Well-known member
Master Hack
Well-known member
Sounds like the bearing is too small for the application.
99502 is a .625 bore size. On a one wheel peel?
how many are in that hub?
how much power is going through it?
what is the vehicle weight?
99502 is a .625 bore size. On a one wheel peel?
how many are in that hub?
how much power is going through it?
what is the vehicle weight?
If the theory of them being too small is correct then you will need to measure them via a set of calipers. Below is a link to some digital ones from Harbor Freight in case you don't have a set, or you can order some from your favorite tool brand (if you have one and if they make em). Don't like HF then Home Depot, Lowes, and most auto part stores will sell them. I'd stay away from Amazon brands as their stock are known to misread.
Rat
Well-known member
In the typical diagnostic "If- Then" scenario the first, simplest, most logical conclusion is the chain being way too tight.
When a chain is ran too tight (especially with low grade bearings) then they rapidly developed a crap load of run out where they tend to flatten the balls into a more [American] football shape as well as deform the races.
If not addressed it can also destroy any other bearing linking the chain to the engine including the engine (most specifically where Hilliard clutches are used) I've seen many gauled and/or cracked bearings from excessive chain tension as well as a few completely exploded ones.
So yeah I'm 99.9% sure it's a chain tension issue, and the lack of any responses for a month after pointing that out reinforces that theory for me.
Like seriously, I find it a bit rude to not at least check in and say "it's fixed", but some get to having fun and forget the help they got once things are working as they should.
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