SDCoston
New member
....or just a bunch of washers..
Ha Ha! That's what I did to tighten up my engine at the very last! I know it's not "clean," but it worked great for me.
Beginner Kart...First Build
- Thread starter JCB003
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Ha Ha! That's what I did to tighten up my engine at the very last! I know it's not "clean," but it worked great for me.
Did a little work today...drilled the frame for the pedals and installed the return springs. Seems like it will do the job, I still need to cut down the excess threads on some bolts. Also I sanded down the frame for repaint. Throttle and new brake parts due in tomorrow. Fabricated a bracket for the caliper and will weld it on this week.
Put the kart on blocks and let the motor run for about an hour and nearly rattled off every bolt on the kart, so I will use some blue Loctite on the bolts for final assembly.
If everything goes as planned, first test run next weekend, then strip it down for paint.
Put the kart on blocks and let the motor run for about an hour and nearly rattled off every bolt on the kart, so I will use some blue Loctite on the bolts for final assembly.
If everything goes as planned, first test run next weekend, then strip it down for paint.
Suggest using nylock nuts or double nutting the bolts on the pedals and return spring in addition to the Loctite. The vibration on a running cart will be enough to loosen them.
Also, that Harry Homeowner hardware - looks like it is from Ace or HD - is rather soft. Consider replacing them with better hardware that you might scrounge over time.
Do you have a separate throttle return spring directly on the carb linkage? If not, consider adding one for safety.
Edit: I just reread this; it sounds preachy. I do not mean it to be. Just suggestions, that's all.
Also, that Harry Homeowner hardware - looks like it is from Ace or HD - is rather soft. Consider replacing them with better hardware that you might scrounge over time.
Do you have a separate throttle return spring directly on the carb linkage? If not, consider adding one for safety.
Edit: I just reread this; it sounds preachy. I do not mean it to be. Just suggestions, that's all.
No problem - I understand what you are saying. I was a bit suprised they worked loose so quickly because I had them cranked down pretty good.
I have Grade 8 bolts and nylock nuts for steering and motor mounts. I used these for initial assembly because I have to take it down again and I didnt want to use the nylock nuts. The pedals came with hardware, but I switched those bolts out for the ones shown for the same reason. The temporary ones on the steering are stainless button head cap screws and ones on the pedals are basic zinc plated hardware and not even the right size - I think they are 1/4 and actual ones are 5/16. I might have to keep the one at the pitman arms because I need a real low profile head to clear the front of the cart. I am thinking of replacing the eye bolt with a weld tab once I get all the throttle and brake lines in place because I'm probably going to weld some keeper tabs on for them anyway.
I do not have the throttle return spring yet, but I plan on adding one.
I worked on the brakes tonight and it looks like they will work! I'm not totally happy with the setup. I hope there is not too much in the way, we'll test it out and see. I used a clevis on each end, linked together with a 1/4" steel rod I cut to length and threaded. Is my rotor correct or should the slots on the rotor follow the direction of rotation? I didn't think about it until I looked at the photo. Still need to weld the bracket.
I'll work on the throttle in the next day or so, I played around with it some tonight and I think I have a plan.
I'll work on the throttle in the next day or so, I played around with it some tonight and I think I have a plan.
Mcbreja
New member
I'm not 100% on the slots in the rotor, but I think they are better served turning in the same direction as the axle.
The caliper (if I'm looking at this correctly) is also on the wrong side of the axle. The brake rod should be pulling the arm to close the pads.
Edit- Scratch That last remark, I see what you did now.
The caliper (if I'm looking at this correctly) is also on the wrong side of the axle. The brake rod should be pulling the arm to close the pads.
Edit- Scratch That last remark, I see what you did now.
souperman000
New member
where did you get your clevis and the pins to hold them on? I think that set-up is really clean. Very nice job, I am enjoying this build.
exenos
Project Nut
I have that same caliper and you will have no problem locking up the tires with a solid connection. It has served us well even with the abuse put on it (binary driving)
Thanks. I got the clevis assembly from bmikarts.com It's under Brakes & Accessories - part number 400261.
OzFab
Well-known member
Turn your disc around.What was your thinking behind the position of the caliper? IIWM, I would have the lever on top of the caliper; less chance of "bottom-out" damage...
exenos
Project Nut
If he put the lever on top it would have needed to be pushed and it was better/easier to set it up as a pull.
Mcbreja
New member
I was thinking at first That JCB had set it up to push the arm instead of pull it. I really don't think bottoming out is an issue at all here, at least not for the caliper.I'm not too concerned with it bottoming out. It's a short kart, so its pretty stiff, plus no suspension and the driver only weighs 50 lbs. The drive sprocket hangs lower too. There is the chance he could run over something, but he will be riding on parking lot and I'll be there to make sure it's clear. We live next to a school in a small neighborhood and it has a back parking lot with islands, so it's like a mini racing course and empty most evenings, weekends and all summer.
I hooked up the throttle tonight. The Predator engine is setup well for the cable hook up, I tested it out and it snaps back easy enough without adding another return spring, but I'll add one anyway since I got one earlier today one and it's probably a good idea anyway as suggested earlier. The ones on it do look weak.
I'm not happy with the current accelerator pedal setup. It's kind of thrown together and although it works it's not as solid as I hoped and I don't think it would last long.
The marker line is where I was going to weld a tab to hook up the cable fitting. After some quick research I'm now going to hook a clevis (like the one on the brake pedal) to to the throttle pedal and run a rod back to the rear of the kart and weld two tabs and hook it up similar to this...
This should give me a more solid hookup and shorten the cable. I got the throttle cable kit SDCoston recommended and it has all the parts to do this. I may use a compression fitting instead of the black plastic one that came with the kit.
I hooked up the throttle tonight. The Predator engine is setup well for the cable hook up, I tested it out and it snaps back easy enough without adding another return spring, but I'll add one anyway since I got one earlier today one and it's probably a good idea anyway as suggested earlier. The ones on it do look weak.
I'm not happy with the current accelerator pedal setup. It's kind of thrown together and although it works it's not as solid as I hoped and I don't think it would last long.
The marker line is where I was going to weld a tab to hook up the cable fitting. After some quick research I'm now going to hook a clevis (like the one on the brake pedal) to to the throttle pedal and run a rod back to the rear of the kart and weld two tabs and hook it up similar to this...
This should give me a more solid hookup and shorten the cable. I got the throttle cable kit SDCoston recommended and it has all the parts to do this. I may use a compression fitting instead of the black plastic one that came with the kit.
I worked on the brakes tonight and it looks like they will work! I'm not totally happy with the setup. I hope there is not too much in the way, we'll test it out and see. I used a clevis on each end, linked together with a 1/4" steel rod I cut to length and threaded. Is my rotor correct or should the slots on the rotor follow the direction of rotation? I didn't think about it until I looked at the photo. Still need to weld the bracket.
I'll work on the throttle in the next day or so, I played around with it some tonight and I think I have a plan.
The slots should face the other way. The flow should be outward. But it will never matter on a go-kart, except for appearance.
qtband
Well-known member
Isn't the caliper supposed to be mounted in a bracket that allows it to "float"? I've never seen one mounted solid.
I don't know? It works fine so far. I do have a bracket that does allow it to float, but I didn't see the need to use it.
I did get some more work done. I finished up the throttle hook up. It's not ideal, it would be better if I could have the rod underneath the frame, but it works very well this way. I was able to eliminate the return spring on the pedal too.
The brake bracket was welded on, and I have since cut off the extra length. I also switched out the return spring on the pedal for a shorter and stronger spring, this took the slop out of the brake linkage and now it snaps back nicely and is less in the way. I added a 3/8" aluminum plate under the motor to raise it up and this tightened up the chain.
Tested it out today (no driver, on jack stands) and everything worked as planned. I was not able to put on the front wheels because I need a socket extension to reach, everything else is assembled and ready for test drive this week. If all goes well, the only thing left will be to strip it down, repaint and switch out all the bolts with new Grade 8 hardware and lock everything down.
qtband
Well-known member
I'm pretty sure you need to float that caliper. As the pads get worn, if the caliper can't move & self-align, you will eventually be using only one side of the brake. Sorry to be the one to tell you that! What does your bracket look like?
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My bracket looks similar to the one you posted. It has bolt holes so I could bolt the bracket to the one I welded on, that was what I was going to do originally. I bracket I bought seemed too loose on the caliper so I skipped it and mounted the caliper directly to the welded bracket. I didn't know that is how it is designed to work. Thank you for the info.
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