Been absent for a while, but I got a new project!

[Wilson_Engine_Shop]

Hey all! Been some time since I've been on here. A lot of things have changed since then but i'd like to show off my newest project! All I know about it is that it's a two seater Carter frame with full suspension, torque converter and dual band rear brakes. It has a few obvious issues like the bent cage and the fact that it has a 30 series drive pulley but a 20 series driven pulley. Along with that the belt alignment isn't even right.

My main question is: What model of frame is this?

I'd love to put a big block on it and some hydraulic brakes to make it how it should've been from the factory. I'll have to test the brakes as they are now to see where they need to be.

Any input is much appreciated!

 

[madprofessor]

Wow, that TC setup's a mess. 30 series flat sided belt driver with a V-belt driven pulley. Which kind of half-wrong belt's it using? Can't say that the driven's on backwards, because of the mismatched pulleys, but at least it's mounted catty-wompus so it'll only be out of alignment half to the right when stopped and half to the left when speeding.
Your first step should be getting a 30 series driven pulley, and then a new 3/4" asymmetrical Comet belt after you've measured accurately for it. Don't just guess the size in advance. Unless you've got more money than me. If you do, my blind crippled granny needs a new I.U.D. .....................
I'd notch out the A-arms mounting plate up front deeper for those upper A-arms to hopefully get more travel before hitting the plate.
I'd block up the rear end off the floor, put a strip of really coarse (HVACR) sandcloth between the brake band(s) and brake drum(s), and run the motor slow with the brakes slightly bearing down. We used to do that as kids because the karts sat out in the rain all the time. Eats the rust off pretty quick, like having new brakes. No, we weren't in a very rich neighborhood, most guys' karts had scrub brakes.

 

[Wilson_Engine_Shop]

Wow, that TC setup's a mess. 30 series flat sided belt driver with a V-belt driven pulley. Which kind of half-wrong belt's it using? Can't say that the driven's on backwards, because of the mismatched pulleys, but at least it's mounted catty-wompus so it'll only be out of alignment half to the right when stopped and half to the left when speeding.
Your first step should be getting a 30 series driven pulley, and then a new 3/4" asymmetrical Comet belt after you've measured accurately for it. Don't just guess the size in advance. Unless you've got more money than me. If you do, my blind crippled granny needs a new I.U.D. .....................
I'd notch out the A-arms mounting plate up front deeper for those upper A-arms to hopefully get more travel before hitting the plate.
I'd block up the rear end off the floor, put a strip of really coarse (HVACR) sandcloth between the brake band(s) and brake drum(s), and run the motor slow with the brakes slightly bearing down. We used to do that as kids because the karts sat out in the rain all the time. Eats the rust off pretty quick, like having new brakes. No, we weren't in a very rich neighborhood, most guys' karts had scrub brakes.

It had a 33" asymmetrical belt on it when I bought it. It actually moved on its own which surprised me after I got it home but would start moving as soon as you started it and wouldn't move backwards at all until I took the belt off to unload it out of the truck.

I've already ordered a new aftermarket 7" driven with 3/4" bore. I also measured the center to center distance and determined that my spare 202597 (35" long) Murray TAV belt fits like a glove! The driven pulley on it is soo rusted and there's no way to space the pulley out to get them into alignment so I bought a longer replacement jackshaft. I think the driven pulley has a issue because its not resting on the black rubber stoppers like a normal 30 series driven does.

The sandpapaer ideas on the drums is a good one! Any chance the drums will stop as well as a hydraulic setup when i'm going about 35-40 mph?

I did think about notching out the top A-arm further to get more travel too.

I did some quick research and found that this is likely a Carter 2906 frame

 

[madprofessor]

Band brakes around the O.D. machined drums have a lot of potential, but I wouldn't trust cables to apply that force and remain reliable. I only recall seeing completely mechanical setups back then to apply brakes, whether bands, shoes, or scrubs. All a setup of rods, angle iron, pipes, whatever it took to get extreme force from the brake pedal to the brake itself.
Suddenly stomping your body weight on the brake pedal because there's a car coming at you after you just ran that stop sign means that a setup made out of steel from pedal to brake can handle that kind of extreme force, and will most definitely lock up the brakes.
Hydraulics are all about applying great force to the brake without having to apply great force on the pedal. That's real nice (have hydraulics myself) but expensive, and can be a pain in the tumble cushion with air in the lines, fluid leaking, etc. and such. I don't mind standing on the brake pedal, and actually it doesn't require that much force to lock up bands or scrubs. Shoes can be iffy when adjusted loose to stop that irritating dragging on the I.D. machined drum.
Hoping you stay with the cool double band brakes, and have it all linked up with very macho rigid steel parts. They'll toss you over the tierods if you build it right.