Hi. I have a solid rear axle cart with a hydraulic disk brake. When assembling the axle I followed the tightening directions properly until the axle froze in the bearing as it was supposed to. However, now that I have been throwing it around a bit the axle slips back and forth about an eighth of an inch until the brake disk hits the caliper and stops it. I tightened the bearing mounts, but that didnt help, and I'm afraid of over tightening them. Is this a serious problem? If so how do I fix it? thanks
Bearing Slippage
- Thread starter camarozl1
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wall gator
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Need to install axel bearing stop's a t least two(2)
wall gator
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anderkart
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You just need to drill small dimples, just a short distance into your axle so all your set screws have something to bite into and grab.
First get your axle all centered where you want it, then remove your set-screws and mark the dimple locations (you need to drill) with a felt pen or center-punch/hammer. Then slide your axle over to drill your dimples, center it back up and re-tighten the set screws into the little dimples.
Voilà... no more sliding axle !!!
Bluethunder3320
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said it perfectly....^
Anderkart, just for my own sake, how deep do you drill them? I tried this first (with maybe a 118* drill bit if I'm remembering correctly) and drilled with a large bit until the width of the 'hole' was about the major diameter of the threads, but it didn't work for me. Maybe it was just the vibrations from plastic wheels sliding on asphalt though.
DustinWolfe
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plastic wheels? what did you build a power wheels or something?
alot of times that dimple hes talking about is just a machined off flat area that when you tighten the setscrew it goes down low enough that the axle wont move unless you back the setscrew off the axleshaft.(did that make any sense?)
alot of times that dimple hes talking about is just a machined off flat area that when you tighten the setscrew it goes down low enough that the axle wont move unless you back the setscrew off the axleshaft.(did that make any sense?)
Trike with plastic rear wheels for drifting... I know about D-shafting, I used that to ghetto-key the wheels... 1/8" off the shaft, 1/8" into the wheels with a 1/4" end mill chucked in a drill press for the wheels + 1/4" steel rod 
In both 1018 and 1045 steel 3/4" shafts I've dimpled and cranked them down pretty hard for 1/4" threads... knurled cup, standard cup, and cone point set screws, always seemed to back out. I used blue loctite, no dimpling, and it's held firm ever since. Not saying this will hold true for all applications, but it's just how it worked out for me.
In both 1018 and 1045 steel 3/4" shafts I've dimpled and cranked them down pretty hard for 1/4" threads... knurled cup, standard cup, and cone point set screws, always seemed to back out. I used blue loctite, no dimpling, and it's held firm ever since. Not saying this will hold true for all applications, but it's just how it worked out for me.
anderkart
Moderator
Well all my axles are the fairly thin walled/hollow racekart style, so I only drilled in about a 1/16" to an 1/8".
My set screws are semi-pointed, so I only drilled my dimples to about 1/2 the diameter of the set screws.
Trike with plastic rear wheels for drifting... I know about D-shafting, I used that to ghetto-key the wheels... 1/8" off the shaft, 1/8" into the wheels with a 1/4" end mill chucked in a drill press for the wheels + 1/4" steel rod
In both 1018 and 1045 steel 3/4" shafts I've dimpled and cranked them down pretty hard for 1/4" threads... knurled cup, standard cup, and cone point set screws, always seemed to back out. I used blue loctite, no dimpling, and it's held firm ever since. Not saying this will hold true for all applications, but it's just how it worked out for me.
Yeah, nothing wrong with using blue locktite and no dimples if it'll hold the axle in place. That's fine, whatever works.
The dimple trick just becomes more and more necessary on karts that develop some major G-force around the corners, especially with heavier karts/drivers.
I haven't had to use any locktite products on my set screws, but my axles are chrome-moly or stainless and my hubs are aluminum, so that might be making a difference in how my set screws lock in place compared to lots of other karts.
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