The controller I am using doesn't have a place for a keyed switch. So I need to put a battery disconnect on my system. I have found a few different styles, but I would really like to have a keyed system (an actual key, not plastic). Could I use an ignition switch from a lawnmower as a disconnect? I am running two 12 volt 18 amp hour batteries in series.
Battery Disconnect
- Thread starter MrGentry
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fowler
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Heavy duty Battery isolator
The ones we use on the haul pack trucks
They are not too big in size
But some have a 2 pronged removable key
About the size of a ride on mower key
EDIT
Or seach
Redarc battery isolator
It is an isolator used in 4x4s to isolate a second battery
It's really just a giant relay
It's not a true isolator as u need battery power to operate it
U could get one if those and wire a lawn mower key into it to operate it
Heavy duty Battery isolator
The ones we use on the haul pack trucks
They are not too big in size
But some have a 2 pronged removable key
About the size of a ride on mower key
EDIT
Or seach
Redarc battery isolator
It is an isolator used in 4x4s to isolate a second battery
It's really just a giant relay
It's not a true isolator as u need battery power to operate it
U could get one if those and wire a lawn mower key into it to operate it
Have you ever used this: http://www.golfcartking.com/EZGO-RXV-Electric-Key-Switch-p/8052.htm
I am going to incorporate a F&R switch as well, and this looks like it may fit my needs for a battery disconnect (on off) and a F&R switch, but I can't find a schematic for it.
I am going to incorporate a F&R switch as well, and this looks like it may fit my needs for a battery disconnect (on off) and a F&R switch, but I can't find a schematic for it.
fowler
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Ha sorry
As is evident in your last thread I'm no expert on electric vehicals
I've only built one
And I was only on the team as the aluminium welder
Apart from electric circuits on trucks I don't do electitrickery
But as long as it can handle the battery's amperage it should work
The only thing I can think is to be careful with the forward reverse
Assuming this will go before the controller
The controller may have a forward reverse in it
I'm unsure but the switch may reverse the current to achieve the direction change
This may not be good for the controller
As is evident in your last thread I'm no expert on electric vehicals
I've only built one
And I was only on the team as the aluminium welder
Apart from electric circuits on trucks I don't do electitrickery
But as long as it can handle the battery's amperage it should work
The only thing I can think is to be careful with the forward reverse
Assuming this will go before the controller
The controller may have a forward reverse in it
I'm unsure but the switch may reverse the current to achieve the direction change
This may not be good for the controller
May I ask why you want to disconnect the batteries at all?
If you're only wanting a key, you could use any key-switch on the throttle.
There is very low voltage (3-5V) and only a small current (~200mA),
so there is no need for heavy duty switches or a relay.
'sid
If you're only wanting a key, you could use any key-switch on the throttle.
There is very low voltage (3-5V) and only a small current (~200mA),
so there is no need for heavy duty switches or a relay.
'sid
The throttle is a 5 pin set up and I would rather not cut the wires to it. I want a disconnect for safety reasons more than anything. If a kid is riding the scooter and something happens, like the throttle sticks, etc., I want them to be able to shut the scooter down.
As for the controller, I don't think it has a f&r built in. The way we wired the other switch on another project used the wires coming from the controller where the motor would hook up, and then we pig tailed the motor wires so we could cross the polarity of the motor. So the polarity going to the controller wasn't affected by the switch.
dcastillo
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just an idea, which is what Im about to do on my kart...
the controller is designed to power the contactor when its turned on, I plan on wiring an EStop button in line with the contactor and putting it in easy reach of the driver. If they push it it will cut the power off to the contactor and that cuts power to the batteries....
If your over paranoid, like I kinda am especially letting my 4/5yr olds drive the cart... there is a small, very small chance the contactor can weld closed (highly unlikely though since mine is designed for 200A) but just in case I also have a strap that is connected to one of the jumper wires used in connecting the 4 12V batteries in series... as a last resort, a simple pull on the strap will physically disconnect the battery itself, 99.9% guaranteed...
the controller is designed to power the contactor when its turned on, I plan on wiring an EStop button in line with the contactor and putting it in easy reach of the driver. If they push it it will cut the power off to the contactor and that cuts power to the batteries....
If your over paranoid, like I kinda am especially letting my 4/5yr olds drive the cart... there is a small, very small chance the contactor can weld closed (highly unlikely though since mine is designed for 200A) but just in case I also have a strap that is connected to one of the jumper wires used in connecting the 4 12V batteries in series... as a last resort, a simple pull on the strap will physically disconnect the battery itself, 99.9% guaranteed...
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