B&S I/C Flatty

karl

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Cool. 5/16 x 24 is whatcha need. Just be aware the side cover gasket sets the endplay on the crankshaft. Removing the gasket for silicone can pinch the crank bearings.
 

Rat

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Cool. 5/16 x 24 is whatcha need. Just be aware the side cover gasket sets the endplay on the crankshaft. Removing the gasket for silicone can pinch the crank bearings.
TBH it's together with nothing ATM and seems good... there's actually a questionable amount of lateral play in the rod end. Like it's not sloppy all the way around, it's more like it could just use a wider rod end.

EDIT FOR CLARITY: ROD END, AS IN WHERE IT MEETS THE CRANK (ALSO HAS BOLT ON STEEL DIPPER/SLINGER)
 
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Rat

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Make a cereal box gasket. I find Frosted Flakes boxes are the closest and best tasting,,,,, I mean work the best.
Lmao... oldest trick in the book from street to strip, the Bud[weiser] Gasket. I'm well aware of that trick but thanks for trying anyway.
 

Denny

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Yea, Miller Lite boxes make good intake gaskets in a pinch when changing a cam and you forget to buy new intake gaskets. Please don’t ask me how I know that or how many times I’ve done it. With little pieces of stainless steel sheet covering the heat crossover. :mad2:
 
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Rat

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Yea, Miller Lite boxes make good intake gaskets in a pinch when changing a cam and you forget to buy new intake gaskets. Please don’t ask me how I know that or how many times I’ve done it. With little pieces of stainless steel sheet covering the heat crossover. :mad2:
Pretty much any NON coregated paperboard works... I actually used a hardback book cover for a cylinder base gasket on an old 2t because it needed shimmed for a longer stoke than it came with... worked really good surprisingly.

I've used everything from soda can cartons to cracker boxes
 

Rat

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So I want to bring this post back up and see about more info, the tin is not original, but is somewhat accurate still.

There is no iron bore (the shroud says I/C cast iron bore comercial), and based on the room from bore to ports either there never was, or someone went ape boring it over to max at somepoint.
I find that as unlikely since A) it was all original everything else (even what was rusted to death) and the numbers on the shroud indicate 13ci series and the 65mm bore/62mm stroke matches that series spec at 12.5 CI.

WTF am I missing here to identify this thing more precisely? Not that it's any help but I have found that the entire engine was originally blacked out based on the paint I've uncovered before bare aluminum 2 layers down (dunno about cover but the one on it was originally white)

It needs a head gasket, and a cover swap to a ball bearing cover to use on anything mobile (doesn't even have a brass or bronze bushing in the cover and the seal is shot) but I have had it running despite loosing some hot oil at the shaft. I'd guess probably a crank swap since there's only 1.25 worth of 3/4" shaft past the seal shoulder.

I think it would be better off if one of the Briggs lovers on here gave it a new home.
 
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Rat

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13ci, 5hp. Dual ball bearing crank. Manufactured May 11, 1987

Replacement fuel tank #694315 , List price $143.80 so Id look for a used tank or donor.
13ci, Yes 65mmx62mm bore and stroke
Iron bore, No
Ball bearings, NONE

Cover is effectively not original though the recoil screwed to it likely is, I need your assistance if possible getting a proper identification. It's definitely smaller than a 5hp, but everything I can find says it's a 13ci 5hp.

I got a 5hp head gasket, and unless there is a size difference between the vertical shaft heads and the horizontal shaft heads... it can't be a 5hp because the whole gasket was too wide and the bolt holes were off by around 1/4"

Maybe these will help
 

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Rat

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Aluminum flywheel key
Cam gear is keyed to the crank and is not pressure fit
 

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