B&S clutch engagement

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drummingpariah

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I just purchased a used kart in hopes of building a pit kart for race events. Essentially, I just want to use it to get from the pits to my campsite whenever necessary (our hillclimb races are at State Parks, and some of the campgrounds are pretty big).

For the price I paid ($350) I feel like I did all right, as long as I can solve the few little issues it has.



I have a little more work to do on the front end (the spindles appear to be a backwards design), and I'm still sorting out a lighting solution, but I wanted to get my clutch sorted out before getting too far ahead of myself with the welder.




After assembling the chain, and getting the engine running, I found that the clutch is permanently engaged when the engine is running. Looking up the engine tag, I identified it as a Raptor II Methanol race engine, but I haven't been able to find much information on the carb. The idle sounds a bit high to me, but I don't have a tachometer to confirm.

The problem I'm having is that the clutch is permanently engaged. If I press the brake while it's running, the engine dies. Otherwise, it sounds happy and healthy while running - no wandering idle, the plug looks decent, and it's consistent without any apparent misses.

The clutch I have appears to be similar to the Horstman Greased Lightning, as far as I can tell. I don't have any experience with small engines, so I'm just guessing at a lot of this.



I found a manual for the greased lightning, but I'm sure the tuning details are different from whatever I have, and the tuning details don't address my current problem.

Here's the manual I found

I don't think I care about 'stall speed' yet, I'm more concerned about 'initial engagement speed' (which doesn't seem to have any documentation). It looks like adding washer/weights will only lower the 'stall speed' (100% clutch lockup) and that's the opposite of what I want. I want to be able to put the kart on the ground while running and not have it stall (or drive away on its own).

Help?
 
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drummingpariah

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I saw that they're automatically thumbnailed down to 640px wide, and thought that wouldn't be an issue. Since that's not the case, I'll resize them.

... should be better now, I think?
 
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Hellion

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Not from here.....you have done justbabout EVERYTHING POSSIBLE to piss Poboy off!:

Whoa. Calm down. I'll ask, have you taken your Midol today? You have to keep taking it, monthly, on those days (you know). One pill a day for 7 days straight, give or take.
 

drummingpariah

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Whoa. Calm down. I'll ask, have you taken your Midol today? You have to keep taking it, monthly, on those days (you know). One pill a day for 7 days straight.

I liked that way of saying, "Hello, welcome to the forum" ... it was really encouraging, and helped steer me in the right direction to solve the problem. As it turned out, the basket/sprocket bearing was seized (still is), and that's why I couldn't get any adjustment out of it.

 

chancer

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I liked that way of saying, "Hello, welcome to the forum" ... it was really encouraging, and helped steer me in the right direction to solve the problem. As it turned out, the basket/sprocket bearing was seized (still is), and that's why I couldn't get any adjustment out of it.
That was not directed at you. It was Directed at the guy he quoted!
LOL
 

Hellion

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I was talking to Poboy but drummingpariah confused me. Thanks for setting him straight, chancer, I think.


Since we're on the subject, did you in fact take some Midol which calmed you down, eased your cramps and allowed you to solve the clutch problem?

 

drummingpariah

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Nope. Soaked in PB for days, still seized. MAP gas, still seized. Freezer for a night, still seized. Even if I do manage to get it out, it's so stuck that I don't expect to be able to re-use the bearing surface.

New clutch ordered.
 
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