AW: Minibike from Scrap

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DennisB

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I tried to remove one more link of the chain but it didn't fit! I would need to remove a half link to make it fit.
 

itsid

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das doch länger als'n Halbglied...
öh
I mean, that's longer than just half a link ;)

Anyways, next time you buy a chain, ask for a halflink and you're good to go

'sid
 

OzFab

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1. :iagree: Remove a link or two
2. A nylon roller is better for a chain tensioner, a metal roller will wear the chain
3. Well, I don't need an adaptor now, I already have one :lolgoku:
4. Your engine sounds nice; what is the muffler from?
 

DennisB

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The muffler is from ebay and made for small 4 stroke atv's or bikes.
http://m.ebay.de/itm/221184283989
The roller is made from aluminium whick works well at the moment because it's softer than the chain, but I think I will order some nylon and spend some time at the lathe.

@itsid : sowas gibt's? Err I mean ... :D
 

danssoslow

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The muffler is from ebay and made for small 4 stroke atv's or bikes.
http://m.ebay.de/itm/221184283989
The roller is made from aluminium whick works well at the moment because it's softer than the chain, but I think I will order some nylon and spend some time at the lathe.

@itsid : sowas gibt's? Err I mean ... :D

I remember watching an episode of Biker Buildoff on the Discovery channel; and watching a guy use a skateboard wheel to make a tensioner. I don't remember how he made the notch in the wheel; but it may be something cheap and local to get if buying the nylon is a pain in the butt.
 

DennisB

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The skateboard wheel idea sounds good (to get nylon wouldn't be a problem, but I have some Skateboard wheels in my garage and money is rare as a student). Machining these on a small lathe works, but it was a real pain in the butt :banghead:
I have also made a small dash for the digital rpm gauge / hour meter.
The tensioner works much better now, which could be a result of the ball bearings in the wheel.
 

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danssoslow

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The dash is cool. I'll throw this out there as a little extra coolness; unscrew the gauge, cut a square hole in the dash for the face of the gauge to fit through, slide the gauge through and screw it in from the back side. This will make the board appear more as a bezel than a simple board. Pimpin'!
 

OzFab

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I'll throw this out there as a little extra coolness; unscrew the gauge, cut a square hole in the dash for the face of the gauge to fit through, slide the gauge through and screw it in from the back side. This will make the board appear more as a bezel than a simple board. Pimpin'!

:iagree:
 

inspire_biraj

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wow its nice. I am also building mini bike but little bit confused with such a small engine. I have 32.8cc,1.4 hp,7500rpm engine. I am wondering whether it can carry my n all the parts load. it will be almost 80kg with me
 

DennisB

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What kind of engine is it? Sounds like a weedeater or chainsaw engine. It could work, but only if you have a very high gear ratio and small wheels. My bike weights about 180kg with me, but my engine is has 6 1/2 hp. If you really want to build it with this engine bear in mind that it needs a high gear ratio which means it will be very slow :(
( Correct me if I'm wrong)
 

landuse

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What kind of engine is it? Sounds like a weedeater or chainsaw engine. It could work, but only if you have a very high gear ratio and small wheels. My bike weights about 180kg with me, but my engine is has 6 1/2 hp. If you really want to build it with this engine bear in mind that it needs a high gear ratio which means it will be very slow :(
( Correct me if I'm wrong)

You are wrong. :D you say high gear ratio, but it should actually be a LOW ratio. That means a higher number eg. 10:1
 

DennisB

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Oh ok, I know I have some problems with the expression of gear ratios. Can you tell me what the position of the numbers mean ? Is the first always the back tire sprocket and the second one always the engine sprocket (when were talking about bikes and karts)? Do the numbers represent the number of teeth of one sprocket compared to the other one or the number of revolutions one sprocket does compared to the other in the same time?
 

landuse

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Oh ok, I know I have some problems with the expression of gear ratios. Can you tell me what the position of the numbers mean ? Is the first always the back tire sprocket and the second one always the engine sprocket (when were talking about bikes and karts)? Do the numbers represent the number of teeth of one sprocket compared to the other one or the number of revolutions one sprocket does compared to the other in the same time?

Here is a quote from Fabroman that says it nicely

high gearing = low numbers = poor acceleration = high top speed
low gearing = high numbers = good acceleration = low top speed

What you do is take the tooth count of your axle sprocket, and divide the clutch sprocket tooth count into that. This will give you your ratio

eg. 60T axle sprocket and a 10T clutch would give you

60/10 = 6:1 gear ratio.

If you have a jackshaft, the equation would be like this

(JS in/clutch)*(axle/JS out)
 

landuse

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do you have any info on that gear box and where you got it? Iv never seen anything like that available here

Those are gear reduction boxes that have a 'wet' centrifugal clutch on the inside. The reduction is generally 2:1, but you do get 6:1 reduction boxes aas well. A lot of concession kart places use them, cos they are pretty indestructable.

You often buy genuine honda engines with them on. Have a look at THIS thread where I take mine apart and put it back together step by step
 

dylanhohn

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Hello, I was thinking of doing the front end of my frame similar to this. It would be rigid, square steel tubing as the fork assembly. I have an old steel bmx bike fork and handlebars that are pretty beefy. Im unsure whether my fork i have now is wide enough for the minibike wheel or not, bu i was thinking of chopping it and using the square tube to widen it. It would like a little like his, just rigid. thoughts? Oh and sorry for the threadjack
 

landuse

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Hello, I was thinking of doing the front end of my frame similar to this. It would be rigid, square steel tubing as the fork assembly. I have an old steel bmx bike fork and handlebars that are pretty beefy. Im unsure whether my fork i have now is wide enough for the minibike wheel or not, bu i was thinking of chopping it and using the square tube to widen it. It would like a little like his, just rigid. thoughts? Oh and sorry for the threadjack

Welcome!! Try starting your own thread for more help from the members
 
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