are my welds any good?

[Bbqjoe]

Then we should ask him to go clamp it in a vise, and wail on it with a cold chisel and hammer!

 

[bassandgokarts]

i would do it now but its time to go nighty night for me. will 6013 be ok for a go kart though? its not like a serious dune buggy more of a yard kart. hopefully i can get some more welds done tomorrow and ill put up some pics. what makes u guys think its just on the surface? just curious

 

[machinist@large]

Yeah I know. We did that with all our rods in college regardless if they were low Hydrogen or not. But to me 70,000 strength is 70,000 regardless of composition. That's why I said a 7014 and 7018 besides being a bit different for all intents and purposes they are close enough. Also if one does use a low Hydrogen rod and not heat it constantly for storage, they should only buy the smallest amount they can and use it up, other wise in a way it does become like a 7014, at least that's what my instructor told me in college.

While your instructor is on track as far as non baked 7018 should be derated to 7014 spec, properly stored and handled 7018 beat's 7014 in two key area's; low temperature ductility, and resistance to high temperature hydrogen embrittalment.

Really, we could argue back and fourth on the theoretical, and all we'd do is drive the OP nut's. Let's recap with this:

A) We believe that the OP has the small DC welder from HF, DC being great as it makes his learning curve much easier.

B) As long as he select's the (approximately) correct rod dia. to match his job and machine and ditches the 6013 in favor of something with a structural rating such as 7014, he should be able to do decent work with practice. (6010/6011 are also viable options, but more difficult to learn how to use.).

OP, get some decent rod and keep practicing!!!!!!!!

 

[bassandgokarts]

thank you all very much. ill get the test results up tomorrow. is harbor freight rod any good? seems to be the only place i can find 7014 in 1/16th diameter.

 

[machinist@large]

i would do it now but its time to go nighty night for me. will 6013 be ok for a go kart though? its not like a serious dune buggy more of a yard kart. hopefully i can get some more welds done tomorrow and ill put up some pics. what makes u guys think its just on the surface? just curious

just practice on some flat bar 1/8 inch thick

using 6013 rods, i dont think they make 7018 1/16 inch rods but i could be wrong, i know ive never seen them though..

Flat bar, no sign of any type of joint, and using 6013 rod.

As far as welding rod if you can't find at your local hardware store, try Home Depot, Lowe's, TSC, Agri Supply, etc. Or make your life easy by looking up welding supplies in the phone book. You just might be surprised at what you learn.

 

[Bbqjoe]

You just might be surprised at what you learn.

I think he's learned enough here for tonight thank you.

You've sent the poor guy to bed to rest his brain.

 

[Randy H]

To the OP. I think you are on the right track. I would recommend cleaning your base metal. Even mill scale. You can see the puddle better.

6013 is a fine rod with properties that will likely exceed the base metal used in a DIY kart. I.E. mild steel. Never stored in an oven. Only store low hydrogen rods in an oven.
6013 haters are guys that don't know how to use it. Just lack of experience.

Improperly stored 7018 doesn't derate to anything. Organic rods and low hydrogen rods are different. Anyone claiming that should do some research. It's unfortunate that an instructor would make such a claim.

Don't worry too much about penetration, joint preparation is what's really important.

Some guys seem to enjoy grinding welds down. I think if a weld is so ugly it need to be ground down then it should be ground out and welded by someone that knows what they're doing.

My qualifications are AAS Welding/fabrication, Journeymen Welder DOL, 30 years experience.

 

[Bbqjoe]

I'm gonna put my eggs in Randy's basket on this one.

Why would anyone even manufacture a rod if it had no structural properties?

 

[Kartorbust]

6013 is low penetration general use. Here's a chart that gives what amps to use. http://proweldservices.com/stick.html

 

[Ognib]

I like 7014 not only for the higher tensile strength, it's also a contact rod that doesn't require maintaining a gap with the arc.
This is nice for those who don't do a lot of welding.

 

[Flyinhillbilly]

The grinding statement reminded me of a funny story.

I used to hang out with a guy who had a general labor monkey job at a machine shop. We were working in his shop one day, and he laid down some nasty booger welds. Then he told me that one if the welders he worked with had told him "you can tell how good a welder is by how he uses his grinder" and then he picked up his grinder and had at said booger welds with it until they were cut well beyond where they should've been, even grinding the surrounding metal into a nice wave pattern.

I still laugh about that one. I didn't bother correcting him as he was the one who worked at the machine shop, and his ego was pretty phenomenal.

 

[Kartorbust]

The grinding statement reminded me of a funny story.

I used to hang out with a guy who had a general labor monkey job at a machine shop. We were working in his shop one day, and he laid down some nasty booger welds. Then he told me that one if the welders he worked with had told him "you can tell how good a welder is by how he uses his grinder" and then he picked up his grinder and had at said booger welds with it until they were cut well beyond where they should've been, even grinding the surrounding metal into a nice wave pattern.

I still laugh about that one. I didn't bother correcting him as he was the one who worked at the machine shop, and his ego was pretty phenomenal.

A grinder and paint make you the welder you ain't. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAX_ZhjJnwg

 

[offroading73]

The grinding statement reminded me of a funny story.

I used to hang out with a guy who had a general labor monkey job at a machine shop. We were working in his shop one day, and he laid down some nasty booger welds. Then he told me that one if the welders he worked with had told him "you can tell how good a welder is by how he uses his grinder" and then he picked up his grinder and had at said booger welds with it until they were cut well beyond where they should've been, even grinding the surrounding metal into a nice wave pattern.

I still laugh about that one. I didn't bother correcting him as he was the one who worked at the machine shop, and his ego was pretty phenomenal.

i was a grinder in a fab shop many years ago and very true you can judge a weld by what grinding is needed. fortunately the welders in that shop where very good and made my job easy.

have been planning to name my first kart "Booger" considering how many years it has been since i welded anything.


to the O.P. that weld looks good to me. i would guess you are better by now.

 

[Kansaskart]

Watch youtube vids. Tech a weld shouldnt really be piled up like that. Might be to low of heat and not moving fast enough.

Of course your gona be welding tubing which makes it even more fun.

I had a couple years welding decades ago. Mine never looked good and now I have nerve damaged hands.

Get your tubing short pieces, weld them. Put in a vice and beat them. If the tube just bends and welds dont break after a few good smacks call it good.

You're not gona make beautiful welds without lots of practice so do your best. A grinder and spray paint will work miracles when your done just dont get carried away on the grinding and take too much off. A die grinder would be great, maybe a dremel but never tried that..

---------- Post added at 07:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:44 AM ----------

Fyi I generally prefer 6013.

 

[Mr. Spindle]

We should ask Spindles.

I suck at welding, it's my wire...

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

No excuses spindles. Get better wire and get to practicing.

 

[Kartorbust]

Hobart wire is way better than HFT stuff. Lincoln and ESAB are better yet.