Arachnid Build

[gokart14]

The ones you got from BMI look like this? Aluminum with L & R handed threads? How much do you need to shorten it?

i dident ge that type. I got these http://www.bmikarts.com/shop/?shop=1&cat=179
5/16-24 Economy Tie Rod End

These are the ones i got. i dident get the nice kind but i was thinking i could cut it shorter and then re thread it?? i dident know if there was a better idea.

 

[Silvergrizz]

i dident ge that type. I got these http://www.bmikarts.com/shop/?shop=1&cat=179
5/16-24 Economy Tie Rod End

These are the ones i got. i dident get the nice kind but i was thinking i could cut it shorter and then re thread it?? i dident know if there was a better idea.

Since they don't say otherwise, I assume they are right hand thread at both ends? If not, make sure you work at the right hand end. (unless you have left hand dies)

You can do one of two things depending on how much you need to cut off the length.

1: Run your 5/16 24 die onto the existing thread and continue down the rod until you have enough adjustment, then cut off what is required.

2: If you need to cut off more than what is already threaded, then cut off to the length desired and thread that end to allow the required adjustment.

Option 2 might be the easiest, if you need to shorten length past more than existing thread. I find that its not easy to start on an already existing thread sometimes.

If in doubt, try running your die on a 5/16 24 bolt first, to see how easy it starts.

 

[redsox985]

They are both right hand threads. I got the first set on the link to BMI you posted but their threads were poorly cut and the rod ends would jump threads because the peaks of the threads were not grabbing. I pulled some rod off of the metal tech racks, cut it down to size and threaded it with a 5/16x24 RHT die. (That's if it is 5/16x24, I don't remember. I threaded on a die to the old rods for sizing.) Or you could cut the excess from the center then fit and weld a collar over the cut.

 

[Bill CNC]

Bob,

Are the front tires on the rear?

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=8680&d=1283722740

 

[Silvergrizz]

Bob,

Are the front tires on the rear?

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=8680&d=1283722740

I had to look at the picture to see what you were referring to, I was standing closer to the front, perspective makes them look bigger. All 4 tires and rims are same size actually.

Made me laugh though.

 

[theo]

Theo, I adjusted the upper Heim joints in to the point that they were jamming an this is where I am at regarding the steering geometry. The drop angle of the A-Arms is 22 degrees at max. The heim joints will jam at this point, unless I take the mini grinder and gently carve out some of the shoulder material on the top inside and bottom outside of each joint to allow the cone spacers more travel.



This currently gives me 6 degrees of positive camber, which is also the KPI, since the spindle is welded at 90 degrees. The caster is currently 10 degrees back. This I can adjust to some degree, by changing shim locations of the A-Arm bushings. Maybe +- 2 more degrees.


As an initial starting point, keeping in mind this is an off road kart, should toe be in or out.


Ackerman is currently zero. Will have to cut and re-weld, or just make new spindles from scratch, once I get calculate what the angle should be.

Is that 22 deg. up and 22 deg.down?


Can you push out the bottom rod end to get 0 or a couple of deg. of neg. camber? 10 deg. of caster is ok might be a little stiff off road.

I would use a deg or so of toe in, maybe adjust to your buggies liking.

You can make a little bracket to give you ackerman, I believe back in Bills thread #77.

 

[Silvergrizz]

Is that 22 deg. up and 22 deg.down?

No, That's just 22 degrees down. The shocks only allow two inches of travel. I can jump on the front end right now and it only seems to move about 1 1/2 inches. I weigh 180 lbs.

Can you push out the bottom rod end to get 0 or a couple of deg. of neg. camber? 10 deg. of caster is OK might be a little stiff off road.

No, As soon as I try to dial in neg camber, it jams the heim joints because it also changes the KPI. They are set as tight as I can get them at the moment, other than grinding away a bit of the collar material on the top inside and bottom outside of each joint.

As for the caster, I can probably bring that ahead to 8 degrees, but that's about it.

I would use a deg or so of toe in, maybe adjust to your buggies liking.

OK, I'll start there

You can make a little bracket to give you Ackerman, I believe back in Bills thread #77.

I went back and looked at that picture, I misunderstood last time, as you were discussing bump steer and indicated it would not help. That will be an easy fix, but I see I'll probably have to cut my tie rods again.

 

[theo]

Grizz, how about cutting the bottom a arm where it goes into one just behind the rod end. You could cut on 3 sides not the bottom and bend the tip up this would help in the bind and the camber.

You have to lay the shock down or move them in for more travel. But before you do that, if you can get better shocks. Check snowmobile shocks on ebay

 

[Silvergrizz]

Grizz, how about cutting the bottom a arm where it goes into one just behind the rod end. You could cut on 3 sides not the bottom and bend the tip up this would help in the bind and the camber.

You have to lay the shock down or move them in for more travel. But before you do that, if you can get better shocks. Check snowmobile shocks on ebay

I would have to cut top and bottom A-arms but it is do-able. If I don't cut the top, it will still bind. I checked, I think I have just enough room behind the heim joints to make the cut.

I have been checking e-bay for better shocks, but they are only 9 3/4" eye to eye.

 

[Bill CNC]

Grizz,

The shock mount can be any size you want it to be and will take any shock you want to use, ... just get out the hacksaw or grinder, ... which ever you prefer. It's only some more re-do work. Something we Ah--Nid builders are used to by now!

I'm pondering the same thing, ... longer shocks.

 

[Wobbly]

Guys have you checked out spiderkarts.net? Robert has been answering some posts, and he has apologised in Grizz's Ah-crap-nid thread

 

[redsox985]

Please tell me you made the thread's title the ah-crap-nid!

 

[Silvergrizz]

Please tell me you made the thread's title the ah-crap-nid!

Unfortunately, I was not the initiator of the thread. It was started long before I purchased my plans. I just happened to have been posting a bit in it for the last couple of months. Primarily urging others to come here, along with the designer to respond to some of our issues. That site never has more than 1 user on at a time and I would say averages maybe 1 message a week. :toetap05:

 

[redsox985]

Wow. That's awful. I was granted a "membership" when I purchased then Black Widow plans. I have never visited there.

 

[r97]

i was on the spider carts forum yesterday, i tried answering a few questions, but seeing they are several months old the poster prob gave up

 

[gokart14]

Since they don't say otherwise, I assume they are right hand thread at both ends? If not, make sure you work at the right hand end. (unless you have left hand dies)

You can do one of two things depending on how much you need to cut off the length.

1: Run your 5/16 24 die onto the existing thread and continue down the rod until you have enough adjustment, then cut off what is required.

2: If you need to cut off more than what is already threaded, then cut off to the length desired and thread that end to allow the required adjustment.

Option 2 might be the easiest, if you need to shorten length past more than existing thread. I find that its not easy to start on an already existing thread sometimes.

If in doubt, try running your die on a 5/16 24 bolt first, to see how easy it starts.

so i got a 5/16 die and it worked but i can only do a little bit before the rod starts slipping in the clamp... i have a hevy duty clamp but it still slips... any ideas????

 

[Wobbly]

You could file or grind two flats half way down the rod, then grip that in your vice. That should stop it from rotating.

 

[r97]

u could just use some sq tubing for leverage, but be careful you can easily bend part of your vice!(ask how i know, lol)

 

[gokart14]

u could just use some sq tubing for leverage, but be careful you can easily bend part of your vice!(ask how i know, lol)

the tie rod is 5/16 how could i youse square tubing

 

[Silvergrizz]

You could file or grind two flats half way down the rod, then grip that in your vice. That should stop it from rotating.

Try what Wobby suggests and you will have no problems