Arachnid Build, ... or is it! (Highly Modified)

[The_Machine]

This isn't a limited slip differential and you wont find one from a small car. I've welded spider gears on my truck and haven't broken it yet.

Good work Bill!

 

[Bill CNC]

For the dirt, ... You want posi-traction. It delivers equal power to the rear tires.

The differential is just being used to connect one CV/halfshaft to the other. I would have just used a spool, ... but that's another story and another trail to chase.

What I have here is inexpensive and uses easy to replace components. I do have my eye out for another differential just like the one I have. It would be interesting to compare both an open and locked differentials to see the advantages and disadvantages between the two. It would be am easy swap out taking about 30 minutes max.

In building the rear end mechanics, ... My main concern in design is simplicity and ease of maintenance with off the shelf parts with minimal modifications if any at all. Part goes bad, ... just order up another. The only thing that seems limited in supply locally are the CV/halfshafts, but they are readily available on the internet and most with free shipping. The one I just bought to replace the defective one was $66.00 to my door.

 

[fowler]

ahhh ok, i get it thanks
i would like to know how an open diff goes compared to a locked one.

 

[Bill CNC]

An open diff is what I have shown you so far. A locked diff is AFTER I weld it into a locked position.

 

[fowler]

i know what it is.
i would like to know the differance in performance on your kart

 

[Bill CNC]

Ah, ... Sorry for the confusion, But that's a little off in the near future.

 

[Bill CNC]

I have been playing with the design of the rear end housing. I think I kinds like this one. I am going to put some .125" x .500" webbing And a .187" think walled 4.0" tube. It had a .250" wall, ... but I thought that would be over kill. The tube is for reinforcement behind the bearings.


What do you guys think?

 

[Bill CNC]

Some of the goodies for the rear end housing. Just mapping it out.

 

[Bill CNC]

The problematic CV/Halfshaft showed up. It fits and it will work but it's not a new one like the first, it's a rebuilt. The threads on the outer end could use a good chasing with a die. Also, ... it looks completely different in appearance. Oh-well, ... what do you do, at least I got it.

Boy this thing is capable of some serious travel. 9" is shown in the picture and It will go a little more, ... but why, ... it will never see the travel shown here. I can tell you one thing, ... My sprocket will never even come close to the ground. The stock design has the sprocket about 3" off the ground.

In my opinion, that's way to low to be playing around in the dirt, .. unless you like buying chains and sprockets.

 

[hawk1093]

Wow your attention to detail is incredible.
I can't wait to see this done. keep up the good work!

 

[Torquerolljoe]

Just out of curiosity, what the the rear axle assembly weigh in the pictures above? I am planning a shredder 2 build but want rear cv's instead of chain drives at the plans call for. Weight is a consideration as I want my build to be light as possible.

Thanks, Joseph

 

[r97]

bill have you considered getting a jack-shaft, or a reduction box so you can put a smaller dia sprocket on there for more ground clearance? (you prob have, but just thought i'd mention it, lol)

 

[Bill CNC]

bill have you considered getting a jack-shaft, or a reduction box so you can put a smaller dia sprocket on there for more ground clearance? (you prob have, but just thought i'd mention it, lol)

Ground clearance, ... The stock setup has 3". My sprocket will NEVER see the ground. I think you miss read my previous post.

 

[Bill CNC]

Just out of curiosity, what the the rear axle assembly weigh in the pictures above? I am planning a shredder 2 build but want rear cv's instead of chain drives at the plans call for. Weight is a consideration as I want my build to be light as possible.

Thanks, Joseph

I'll have to weight them.

 

[r97]

Ground clearance, ... The stock setup has 3". My sprocket will NEVER see the ground. I think you miss read my previous post.

sry about that, lol. i noticed there have been a few adjustments made to at-least the scorpion go kart section at spider carts.com

 

[Bill CNC]

Just out of curiosity, what the the rear axle assembly weigh in the pictures above? I am planning a shredder 2 build but want rear cv's instead of chain drives at the plans call for. Weight is a consideration as I want my build to be light as possible.

Thanks, Joseph

Joseph,

The (2) CV/Halfshafts and the center differential unit together weight 30 pounds. Both wheel assembly weight in at 40 pounds. The complete drive line setup weighs in at 70 pounds.

This includes the; ... both CV/Halfshafts, assembled center differential unit, both steering knuckled, calipers, rotors, hubs.

I hope this helps.

 

[Bill CNC]

sry about that, lol. i noticed there have been a few adjustments made to at-least the scorpion go kart section at spider carts.com

Whats different?

 

[Bill CNC]

Well I went and looked at his responses, ... finally he made them, and I responded back. Here is what I wrote;

Robert,

If saving money was your concern, ... then why do you have us buy (20) spindle brackets when the cart built per the plans only uses (12) of them. I could have saved $28.00 right there.

You also call for buying (2) u-joints for the steering when you only need (1). I could have saved $23.00 right there.

Also, while your at it, the shock mounts that you call out have a .500" diameter mounting hole in them and the shock has a .375 hole, ... interesting fit. So you need to either spend an additional $15.00 or so for bushings, or own a machine shop to make them.

The way you have this Kart drawn up, you need to buy additional spacers or have access to a machine shop to make bushings that will take up the slack. Also, one could save 8' or so of square tubing IF they make the suspension block as per plans because they will be severely disappointed because they will need to re-make the suspension block at a width of 6", ... and not the 5" you call out for because the center of the hiem joints are not inline with the A-arm pivot joints. picture a door with misaligned hinges.

Another area is the rear shock mounts. One will save time and money buy not building them as per your plans, ... Part #MF2.5-90 page 23 is too short. It should be at least 4 inches in order for shock tabs to line up in a straight line, they are angled and need to be vertical. Otherwise your shocks will not function properly. Think of sticking a pyramid with a 4" base in a 3" square hole.

And on pages 34-35, ... you have conflicting information working against your drawings. The shock mount should be shown to be centered on the lower A-arm, ... it is not. Yes you call this measurement out on the plans drawing, but you have drawn the shock mount on the wrong side of the line. I know this is visual, ... but people use the drawings for reference and also to confirm the placement of parts.

Also you show the spindle brackets to be mounted on SB12-9045 flush with the top and bottom surfaces, and in your pictures and the actual built kart, ... they are not. It appears the top ones are about .375 BELLOW the top surface. If they are to be made per your plans, ... You will either need to make or buy (added expense) cone nuts and .375" spacers on the spindles. Also you would need to buy (2) additional 6" long bolts (more unplanned expense) to be used in the front spindles for mounting.

The .250" clevises you call for on the tie rods, ... will not work. The steering rack you call for is .500" wide. You cannot be calling out the pin size for the clevis, ... well that wont work either because the hiem joints that come with the rack are .312". So one has to buy different clevises, ... More un-planed expense. And a .250" tie rods for this kart, ... your kidding right?

I could go on, ... but I think you and others get the point.

I am not looking for a full size 4 wheeler, In fact, I'm not wanting a 4 wheeler, I was just curious as to how far this could be modified. I want a kart the size of yours that can be modified and upgraded as you state that it is possible to do whatever you want to it. But first, ... in order to do that, ... you have to start off with a WORKING platform, ... and this is not under it's current configuration and built as per plan.

Robert, It truly scares me at the thought of others buying these plans, then going out and buying $1,000 in parts only to start building this thing and then come to a "SCREECHING HALT", give up because of these issues and others because of the lack of knowledge to fix them or the resources to do so.

I and others have been very frustrated building your Arachnid Kart. One thing that is a plus, is that three of us that are building them on http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=10 are competent builders from the UK build, the Canadian build and mine, the US build. We have been able to overcome the plans many short comings, along WITH the un-planned added expenses.

Seems that is you were really concerned in keeping the cost down, ... you would go through these plans and correct the issues. Maybe you are right at this moment, but know-one knows if you are or not. You have been pretty silent.

You have read these build threads, ... and you said you did, ... were is your product support?

One other thing if I may, ... To disappear from this list or your customer support because you travel out of the country is a very poor excuse. I myself travel internationally, monthly as a matter of fact, but your forum and your email, ... can go global. YOU COULD still offer that support, ... if you actually wanted to.

I don't know if or how long you will let this post stay here while you address these issues, it's your forum and you can do as you wish. But you have some bad publicity growing over at DIYgokarts.com that you cannot control, unless you step up to the plate and offer assistance to these and other issues. To me, ... it seems like a marketing benefit in your behalf to try to control this before it's to late. Your Arachnid has quickly earned the nickname; "Ah-Crap-Nid". The only reason is because at every corner of the build, ... the builder seems to mutter the words, ... Ah-Crap, ... now what?


Regards with Legitimate Complaints
Bill

 

[Wobbly]

Bill that is awesome. I really hope Robert takes this opportunity to respond

 

[Bill CNC]

One can only hope.