Arachnid Build, ... or is it! (Highly Modified)

[The_Machine]

I keep extra drive sprocket(s) ready to make gearing changes based on the terrain. I mount the pillow block for the axle vertically so tensioning the chain is simple as sliding 1/4 inch shims in and out from under it.

 

[Bill CNC]

Important Message:

I have another issue with the plans that is going to be a big problem if you build it to the plans. It has to do with the Upper Shock Mount.

If you look at pages 34-35, it shows the front suspension block with the Upper Shock Mount attached to it. It also references on page 35 that the placement of the Upper Shock Mount should be about 5 -3/4" from the front of the block.

If one was to build it like that, ... they will never be able to mount the shocks to the A-arm. The plans as drawn are obviously wrong.

The correct measurement is 4 3/4" from the front of the suspension block.

If you look at the drawings, you will notice that when drawn and measured, the designer failed to remember that the shock mount on the a-arm is in the center of the spindle mounts.

 

[r97]

im sry to here everyone building the arachnid is having soooooo many problems. i havent had any other than little things like not including throttle cable fittings in the parts list, or telling you to buy 1/8" flat bar then saying you need 3/16", or shock mounting tabs made for different shocks.

 

[Wobbly]

Thanks for the heads up Bill, I hope the designers are reading these threads and will address these issues in the plans.

Quick question for you on the front wishbones. I take it you stuck to the dimensions for them as detailed in the plans. Could you measure the distance from the pivot point to the end of the wishbone where the rose joints screw in? I need an idea of how wide they are when they are finished. Because my suspension block is a lot wider than stock, I need to know how much to reduce the wishbones in length to stick to the original dimensions. From what I understand, it's a bad idea to have the front wheels wider than the rears.

 

[r97]

my front wheels are gonna be way further off to either side than my rear(oh yea im building a reverse trike, oops)

 

[Silvergrizz]

Important Message:

I have another issue with the plans that is going to be a big problem if you build it to the plans. It has to do with the Upper Shock Mount.

If you look at pages 34-35, it shows the front suspension block with the Upper Shock Mount attached to it. It also references on page 35 that the placement of the Upper Shock Mount should be about 5 -3/4" from the front of the block.

If one was to build it like that, ... they will never be able to mount the shocks to the A-arm. The plans as drawn are obviously wrong.

The correct measurement is 4 3/4" from the front of the suspension block.

If you look at the drawings, you will notice that when drawn and measured, the designer failed to remember that the shock mount on the a-arm is in the center of the spindle mounts.

Bill, I wonder if he planned on the shocks to be angled back? take a look at the attached picture of how the rear shock mounts line up. I assumed I had made an error someplace cutting parts after I attached the rear suspension to the main frame. I figured the shocks SHOULD be in a straight line of travel (and maybe they should), but have a look at the attached picture. The shocks are angled in, and they will fit on the brackets, that why 1/2 holes in the brackets and 3/8 in the shocks. The bolt is angled in the bracket. Not ideal in my opinion and in reality probably another error in the plans.

To my way of thinking these shocks should travel in a straight line. The attached pictures show the rear suspension block folded up to meet the back of the main frame. You can clearly see the mounts are offset by 1 3/4 inches.

 

[Bill CNC]

Thanks for the heads up Bill, I hope the designers are reading these threads and will address these issues in the plans.

Welcome to the beta plans testers club. I honestly do want my money back from these plans as they were not what I thought I was buying, ... a complete, workable and a PROVEN set of plans and I do feel suckered! They are clearly not ready for prime time and the sale of the Arachnid plans SHOULD be stopped and corrected BEFORE any further plans are to be sold.

Quick question for you on the front wishbones. I take it you stuck to the dimensions for them as detailed in the plans. Could you measure the distance from the pivot point to the end of the wishbone where the rose joints screw in? I need an idea of how wide they are when they are finished. Because my suspension block is a lot wider than stock, I need to know how much to reduce the wishbones in length to stick to the original dimensions. From what I understand, it's a bad idea to have the front wheels wider than the rears.

The overall length of the A-arms is 14.750" long. That is the overall length, ... if you need the pivot point to the end of the A-arm length, subtract .500" (1/2") which is half the diameter of the bushing. with it measured like that, ... it is 14.250"

To be honest with you, ... making the A-arm any shorter is probably going to just reduce the travel height of the suspension. I don't think their is anything to really gain from it.

 

[theo]

Grizz, those shocks you are using have to travel in a straight line, not angled like you have there.

 

[Bill CNC]

Bill, I wonder if he planned on the shocks to be angled back? take a look at the attached picture of how the rear shock mounts line up. I assumed I had made an error someplace cutting parts after I attached the rear suspension to the main frame. I figured the shocks SHOULD be in a straight line of travel (and maybe they should), but have a look at the attached picture. The shocks are angled in, and they will fit on the brackets, that why 1/2 holes in the brackets and 3/8 in the shocks. The bolt is angled in the bracket. Not ideal in my opinion and in reality probably another error in the plans.

To my way of thinking these shocks should travel in a straight line. The attached pictures show the rear suspension block folded up to meet the back of the main frame. You can clearly see the mounts are offset by 1 3/4 inches.

Bob,

I would assume they are incorrect. If the shock was to be mounted at an angle, you would think the bracket should also be mounted at an angle.

Just to let everyone know and to the best of my knowledge, the designer still hasn't shown his head in these forums to even try to correct any of these issues. I can only see this as a warning to those who are even thinking of buying plans from this guy. I paid this dude with pay-pal and today I am going to file a dispute with them to try to get my money back.

Again, ... this is NOT what I paid for. So far, it has you buying parts you do not need, and the plans are not workable.

 

[Bill CNC]

Grizz, those shocks you are using have to travel in a straight line, not angled like you have there.

Correct, ... Think of it as putting a pyramid with base of 2' into a square hole of 1'. It will fit and work until you bottom out in the hole yet you still have 1' more of travel to go.

You will either bend the shock piston rod or the frame of your 1' example hole.

 

[Silvergrizz]

Grizz, those shocks you are using have to travel in a straight line, not angled like you have there.

Oh great, I guess I'll be cutting those off and adding 1 3/4 to each side of the bracket. Thanks for confirmation Theo.

 

[Wobbly]

Bill could I ask how you determined the position of the steering rack? I assume you set it back so that it's parallell to a line joining the centre of the spindles.

 

[Bill CNC]

Wobbly,

Apparently he has at least one dimension right, ... I used the dimensions from the plans.

 

[Bill CNC]

I have been planing the rear of the Ah-Crap-Nid (Thanks Wobbly ) and it looks very promising. I went to the junk yard and I came up empty handed. So instead of shopping around wasting my time on dry runs to the junk yard, ... I just went and bought 2 passenger side CV Halfshafts from O'Reillys.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MSV0/TO8039.oap?keyword=to8039

Shipping was free so the total was $150.00 for NEW parts. The tracking number says they will be here on Thursday.

I think I will probably still have to get some steering knuckles, rotors and the brake calipers that go with the CV Halfshafts, ... but that means I am going to have to figure out what to do about the rear rims. I will need to have them clear the rotors.

Any Ideas Guy's?

 

[r97]

couldent you just buy big atv tires?http://www.motopartsmax.com/index.php/main_page/product_info/products_id/11535/tID/1/cPath/50

 

[Bill CNC]

r97,

They are 10" rims, ... I think they are to small, ... I will have to see what the diameter of the rotor is going to be.

BTW- here is their description of the tire and rim;

22x10-10 Tire with Rim for ATVs, 95% New!

What the hell is 95% new, ... A used tire and a used rim, ... but you get a new valve stem?

 

[Silvergrizz]

Bill, when you decide what size rim you need, check out this guy. I bought my rims and tires from him and they are great. Excellent to deal with, super fast shipping.

http://stores.ebay.com/Jeds-Wholesale-Tires

 

[theo]

Grizz, how many tires did you get from him and what is the cost to ship to Canada?

 

[Silvergrizz]

Theo, I bought 4, but I have all my stuff drop shipped to a warehouse in Calais, Maine, right next to the customs office. They hold my stuff, till I drive over to pick it up. The warehouse is Deringer's, they have sites all along the US/Canada border just for that purpose. Shipping to Calais for 4 tires & rims $57.56 US. probably would have been over $300 to ship to Canada. They arrived in Calais from Tennessee 2 days after I bought them

 

[theo]

Much of a problem on getting them over the border, paper work?