Mine were from BMI. They at least look very similar to yours being that they are the better aluminum ends.
Arachnid Build in NOLA
- Thread starter Austin_40
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Mine were from BMI. They at least look very similar to yours being that they are the better aluminum ends.
Austin_40
New member
I have the caster issue resolved. I took measurements of all the components and was able to get both sides within 1/2 degree of each other by matching a-arms together with similar fabrication outages. Seems to me that ought to be close enough.
I'm expecting cone spacers for above and below the spindles to deliver any day now, which will allow me to completely assemble the front suspension and steering. From that point, I'll check the rest of the steering geometry, bump steer, etc, and if all is good, I'll weld out the suspension block and a-arms then get the whole assembly welded to the main frame.
Also ordered tires/rims and front and rear hubs this morning. If all goes well, I could have a rolling chassis very soon!
I'm expecting cone spacers for above and below the spindles to deliver any day now, which will allow me to completely assemble the front suspension and steering. From that point, I'll check the rest of the steering geometry, bump steer, etc, and if all is good, I'll weld out the suspension block and a-arms then get the whole assembly welded to the main frame.
Also ordered tires/rims and front and rear hubs this morning. If all goes well, I could have a rolling chassis very soon!
Austin_40
New member
Yes, just stretch parts MF115-1507 to 21.5" long instead of 11.5". This will obviously affect the seat mounting rails as well (MF16-90), which I haven't built yet until I get the actual seat in my hands and can verify the mounting dimensions.
Austin_40
New member
Little bit of progress this weekend. I think we're down to the short strokes on the front suspension. A few little issues to work through, and then I can get it mated up to the main frame.
Left side flex. At maximum shock extension, it appears the arms droop approximately 18 degrees.
Naturally, the ends of the shocks and the shock mounts have different diameters. I think I'm going to talk to my old man about machining some bushings to make this connection a little cleaner.
Cone spacers and heim joints. This turned out pretty nice!
Got rear shock mounts tacked on to the frame.
It's coming along! Wheels/tires and hubs should come in this week, and I think I'll have a rolling chassis!
Left side flex. At maximum shock extension, it appears the arms droop approximately 18 degrees.
Naturally, the ends of the shocks and the shock mounts have different diameters. I think I'm going to talk to my old man about machining some bushings to make this connection a little cleaner.
Cone spacers and heim joints. This turned out pretty nice!
Got rear shock mounts tacked on to the frame.
It's coming along! Wheels/tires and hubs should come in this week, and I think I'll have a rolling chassis!
T-man
New member
Awesome, I cant belive how many people are building these. One word of caution, be sure not to tack to much together before welding, I have don it, when I did weld everything together and looked at it latter I saw so many things that I missed.
Austin_40
New member
I don't have a scale, but based on weights per foot, there should be 23-24 lbs of steel tubing. With brackets, spindles, bushings, shocks, etc, I would guess the whole front end weighs in a little under 30 lbs, not counting hubs and wheels/tires.
road_thing
New member
I can make the bushings, but 16 of 'em will take quite a while. How about just reducing the OD of a thick washer to where it would fill the gap between the bolt and the mount, then putting another, larger washer on the outside to hold it in place?
Even easier, could you just drill out the eyes on the shocks to accept the larger bolt?
dad
Even easier, could you just drill out the eyes on the shocks to accept the larger bolt?
dad
Naturally, the ends of the shocks and the shock mounts have different diameters. I think I'm going to talk to my old man about machining some bushings to make this connection a little cleaner. Quote
You could weld washers with the same hole dia. as the shock mounting bolts to the outside of the shock mounts.
You could weld washers with the same hole dia. as the shock mounting bolts to the outside of the shock mounts.
Austin_40
New member
Theo, that's a great idea, and wouldn't require any machine work at all. I think I'll give that a shot!
road_thing
New member
Theo's idea crossed my mind, too. You'd have to decide in advance which hole you're going to use on the lower mounts in front, but that doesn't seem like a big deal.
dad
dad
Couldn't you just drill a new plate and put it on since it's only tacked? If you are going to make this as move as it is so far, I'd suggest doing it right. That size of a plate could be made from scraps because it's so small. I know you need a few but a foot square would do it. See if your local steel place or even hardware store has a scrap.
Austin_40
New member
Well... looks like I lost about 75% of my build thread in the server meltdown 
. If anyone is interested, I did find it cached through Google at http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:GF-BfUxUN40J:www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php%3Fp%3D128611+site:diygokarts.com+arachnid+nola+throttle&cd=2&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us.
I'll keep posting updates going forward!
. If anyone is interested, I did find it cached through Google at http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:GF-BfUxUN40J:www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php%3Fp%3D128611+site:diygokarts.com+arachnid+nola+throttle&cd=2&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us.I'll keep posting updates going forward!
r_chez_08
Should be in the shop...
Unlucky.
I checked out the cached page, and your buggy is looking SWEET!
If I were you I would copy any info you want from that page, as it may update to after the server crash.
Rob
I checked out the cached page, and your buggy is looking SWEET!
If I were you I would copy any info you want from that page, as it may update to after the server crash.
Rob
Austin_40
New member
Got engine mount welded up today, engine installed, torque converter installed, and sprockets and chain set up. Started the engine for the first time, cranked right up on the first pull. It has an electric starter, so I need to get a battery and wire it up with a switch. I also need to add a kill switch up by the seat. After that, it's finishing the brakes, installing the gas pedal and control cable, and we're riding!
Austin_40
New member
Also, I figured out that my new "beefier" pretty yellow shocks are trash. After getting them installed, I noticed that they were very springy and compressed a lot under my weight when sitting in the seat. I really haven't felt comfortable with them since I installed them. Just for grins, I installed the original shocks I purchased on the rear, and they were MUCH stiffer and felt like I would expect shocks to feel. So I guess it's back to the drawing board on shocks. I may just buy another pair of 12" from BMI and put them on the front and be done with it.
Austin_40
New member
It should clear. The roll bar is raked back 10 degrees, so it shouldn't interfere with the seat.
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