Anyone know the predator 420cc wiring??
- Thread starter kevbo22
- Start date
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Ok so I decided to use the multimeter today to see if I could get it. What I found was the ignition always completes a 12v circuit in the "off" position (any wire with the positive). However when in the "on" position, all wires complete a 12v circuit except for one directly diagonal form the positive.
This is completely backwards from what I want. I want to complete a 12v circuit in the "on" position, and close it in the "off" position.
Am I missing something, or is this just not possible?
This is completely backwards from what I want. I want to complete a 12v circuit in the "on" position, and close it in the "off" position.
Am I missing something, or is this just not possible?
Attachments
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420wire.jpg
Ummm....sorry, but i just don't know.
Anyone??
Anyone??
anderkart
Moderator
What are you attempting to wire to your Ignition switch? Driving Lights, or something else?
Your Predator 420 engine is probably wired just like a Honda GX390, here's a link to a wiring diagram you could check out: http://www.engineman.co.uk/ekmps/shops/engineman/resources/Design/elecrtic-start-wiring-diagram.bmp
Your Ignition switch is different from one used in a car or truck.
(its the same type of switch that older outboard boats and motorcycles used)
Your switch has completely 2 separate sections, to activate power(+) and ground(-) circuits...
Your Ignition switch gets it's Ground-source from where its installed to a grounded metal panel.
In the Off-position, your Ignition switch simply acts as a kill-switch. It sends that Ground-signal to the Ignition coil to kill spark and shut the engine off.
In the On/run position, your Ignition switch does nothing;
it simply stops sending that ground signal to kill spark.
(your engine would keep running even if you completely unplugged the Ignition switch...)
The other 2 wires on your ignition switch are a Positive voltage circuit, and they're only function is to activate the starter solenoid when you turn the key to the far right (start/crank) position.
PS:
Use your multimeter to check for any possible function of those 2 little blobs of solder (without any wires connected) on the back of your Ignition switch. You might just discover those 2 are a completely separate, unused circuit of your switch. (also check if they're always isolated from your other 3-wired switch connections) Because If you discover they only have continuity with each other in the on position, you could probably solder wires onto them to turn lights (or whatever) on and off with the key...
________________
Your Predator 420 engine is probably wired just like a Honda GX390, here's a link to a wiring diagram you could check out: http://www.engineman.co.uk/ekmps/shops/engineman/resources/Design/elecrtic-start-wiring-diagram.bmp
Your Ignition switch is different from one used in a car or truck.
(its the same type of switch that older outboard boats and motorcycles used)
Your switch has completely 2 separate sections, to activate power(+) and ground(-) circuits...
Your Ignition switch gets it's Ground-source from where its installed to a grounded metal panel.
In the Off-position, your Ignition switch simply acts as a kill-switch. It sends that Ground-signal to the Ignition coil to kill spark and shut the engine off.
In the On/run position, your Ignition switch does nothing;
it simply stops sending that ground signal to kill spark.
(your engine would keep running even if you completely unplugged the Ignition switch...)
The other 2 wires on your ignition switch are a Positive voltage circuit, and they're only function is to activate the starter solenoid when you turn the key to the far right (start/crank) position.
PS:
Use your multimeter to check for any possible function of those 2 little blobs of solder (without any wires connected) on the back of your Ignition switch. You might just discover those 2 are a completely separate, unused circuit of your switch. (also check if they're always isolated from your other 3-wired switch connections) Because If you discover they only have continuity with each other in the on position, you could probably solder wires onto them to turn lights (or whatever) on and off with the key...
________________
Last edited:
Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
The bigger question to me is...now that the problem is defined...why not just break one of the hot wires with a switch?
I am installing a bam gas tank with sending unit and gas gauge on my minibuggy. It would be nice if the gauge is only drawing power when the engine is on without having to use a toggle switch.
I hate to have yet another switch on this thing, But it seems that I will have to do this.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
I want a gas gauge. LINK please?
Here is the unit im using. I am using a bam gas tank with sending unit flange (10x33-11gal)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151318951422?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Well that is out of my price range! lol
anderkart
Moderator
Did you understand my sugestion on how to test the 2 unused terminals of your ignition switch? Ive got a feeling they might work fine for powering your fuel guage on/off with the key, but you'll need to thouraly test them first to see if my hunch is corect or not. If they funtion the way i asume, you'd simply need to solder a fused hot wire to either one, then solder a wire to the other one to power your fuel gauge
Did you understand my sugestion on how to test the 2 unused terminals of your ignition switch? Ive got a feeling they might work fine for powering your fuel guage on/off with the key, but you'll need to thouraly test them first to see if my hunch is corect or not. If they funtion the way i asume, you'd simply need to solder a fused hot wire to either one, then solder a wire to the other one to power your fuel gauge
I did test the two unused spots on the ignition switch. Unfortunately, they were duds, nothing.
However I think I now understand that you are saying to hook a positive to one or the other unused spots and test. Correct?
Did you understand my sugestion on how to test the 2 unused terminals of your ignition switch? Ive got a feeling they might work fine for powering your fuel guage on/off with the key, but you'll need to thouraly test them first to see if my hunch is corect or not. If they funtion the way i asume, you'd simply need to solder a fused hot wire to either one, then solder a wire to the other one to power your fuel gauge
Same thing, 12v circuit in "off" position and no 12v circuit in "on" position.
Tomorrow I am going to wire in a 5 pin relay, something I should have thought of yesterday
. I am 99% sure a relay will do the trick since I do have a 12v circuit being completed and being cut with the ignition switch.
chancer
ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
Ooooh a Bam tank! hey big spender. LOL
Work hard.....Play harder
anderkart
Moderator
Same thing, 12v circuit in "off" position and no 12v circuit in "on" position.
Tomorrow I am going to wire in a 5 pin relay, something I should have thought of yesterday
10-4. Yeah I was thinking about using a relay too, but I couldn't think of any that'd work correctly in your situation without causing a drain on your battery when the karts shut off.
You could instal an ignition switch made for older outboard boats. They have a Magneto terminal that grounds in the off position to kill spark, plus they have an accessory terminal that'd power your gauge without having to use a relay... You'd just need to find one that also has the start terminal, lots of older outboard boats had a separate push button switch for the starter.
Now that I have it visually mapped out, I see what you mean. This does solve the problem but when the ignition switch is off the coil would always be charged which really defeats the purpose.
I am convinced it cant be done without installing a new ignition switch and knowing how to wire it.
Thanks for the help anderkart, much appreciated! I guess i'll just use a toggle switch unless someone knows an exact model ignition switch that would work.
Attachments
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ignition-relay.jpg
anderkart
Moderator
A switch like this would work just fine for you: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=8419#
Check out the wiring diagram pic on their ad:
That switches Magneto terminal would connect to your engine, Its only function will be to ground in the off position, to kill spark.
You'd connect your fuel gage to the switches Ignition terminal with like a 5-amp in-line fuse in-between.
The other conections are all obvious, and you most likely wouldn't be connecting anything to that switches choke terminal, unless you wanna use it for a horn button or something
Check out the wiring diagram pic on their ad:
That switches Magneto terminal would connect to your engine, Its only function will be to ground in the off position, to kill spark.
You'd connect your fuel gage to the switches Ignition terminal with like a 5-amp in-line fuse in-between.
The other conections are all obvious, and you most likely wouldn't be connecting anything to that switches choke terminal, unless you wanna use it for a horn button or something
A switch like this would work just fine for you: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=8419#
Check out the wiring diagram pic on their ad:
That switches Magneto terminal would connect to your engine, Its only function will be to ground in the off position, to kill spark.
You'd connect your fuel gage to the switches Ignition terminal with like a 5-amp in-line fuse in-between.
The other conections are all obvious, and you most likely wouldn't be connecting anything to that switches choke terminal, unless you wanna use it for a horn button or something
THANK YOU! I'll give a shot.
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