Anyone know how to get these type of wheels off?

[Randy H]

You don't need gravity for penetrating oil to work is magic. The phenomenon known as capillary action will do the trick.

A hand impact driver might be useful to you. Here's a cheap set.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE

In case you haven't thought about it I'll mention that with the bolts removed from the wheels only a small amount of air pressure is required to make them quite dangerous.

 

[MacgyveredFix]

Use a cheap propane torch and a breaker bar with a cheater bar in the end. Hit the nut with the flame for a minute or two then give it a splash of cold water to cool it quickly, then apply breaker bar and cheater bar over that. I broke 4 nuts loose on a 48 year old Volkswagen bus this weekend that were rust welded on the studs. This trick worked VERY well. Good luck.

 

[Mastercrafter]

A nut splitter isn't expensive. My local autozone stocks them. Always 1 or 2 hanging up. Simple to use. Basically a screw chisel.
In my experience with them, it was easier to buy a new nut than the strain, sweat and possibility of causing more damage.

 

[Karttekk]

Is there any chance someone can hold the brake pedal down while you try loosening the nut? That might keep the axle from turning. If not, try a pipe wrench around the axle and key to keep the axle from turning then put a section of pipe over a breaker bar to make it longer for more leverage. See if you can break it loose. If it comes loose, leave the nut on the axle close to the wheel but not tight. Drive the kart a short distance to hopefully let the wheel pop loose but not go anywhere. You can then jack up the kart and remove the wheel. Good luck.

Thanks

 

[CatmanDobbins]

Sorry to hear that, If you dont have impact wrench, to get nut off you just put yoru socket or wrench on it, and smack the end of the wrench with a big hammer. Works just like an impact wrench. Or take it to a shop and say hey buddy please ill give ya a dollar if you impact this nut off for me please!!!

As far as rim goes, you can get a puch/awl used for starting drill bits and set it on the edge of the key, then smack the key out of place a little bit.

Once you have at least the nut off, you could get a piece of 1" schedule 40 pipe and smack the living daylights out of it to break the rim loose.... that is if there isn't a step in the rim or axle.


The problem really is that I can't keep the axle from turning when I'm trying to get the nut to turn. I tied the thing to a tree with a slackline and it still was turning while I was doing it. I think I'll have to take it to a mechanic because this thing is really a pain in the ***. I tried the heating + wax method to get it off too and it did nothing for me.



You don't need gravity for penetrating oil to work is magic. The phenomenon known as capillary action will do the trick.

A hand impact driver might be useful to you. Here's a cheap set.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2.../dp/B000NPUJYE

In case you haven't thought about it I'll mention that with the bolts removed from the wheels only a small amount of air pressure is required to make them quite dangerous.




What do you mean by dangerous because of air pressure? The wheels are completely deflated so I don't see how they could have any pressure to make them dangerous. Unless you're talking about using air pressure with an impact wrench... sorry I just don't understand



A nut splitter isn't expensive. My local autozone stocks them. Always 1 or 2 hanging up. Simple to use. Basically a screw chisel.
In my experience with them, it was easier to buy a new nut than the strain, sweat and possibility of causing more damage.


The nut splitters that I have seen online wouldn't fit into the rim from what I can tell. Since the bolt is deep inside the rim the splitter would be working at an angle. I'm not sure if that would still work.



Is there any chance someone can hold the brake pedal down while you try loosening the nut? That might keep the axle from turning. If not, try a pipe wrench around the axle and key to keep the axle from turning then put a section of pipe over a breaker bar to make it longer for more leverage. See if you can break it loose. If it comes loose, leave the nut on the axle close to the wheel but not tight. Drive the kart a short distance to hopefully let the wheel pop loose but not go anywhere. You can then jack up the kart and remove the wheel. Good luck.

Thanks


The brakes on this kart are pretty crappy so they don't stop the wheels from turning while I'm trying to wrench them off. I'll try the pipe wrench strategy of getting them off, but if that fails then I'll just have to take the kart to the mechanic. The wheel is also held on by a keyway block thing and it seemed just as tough as the wheels. Any idea on how to get that out?



Thank you everyone for the responses. Sorry it took so long to get back to you, things have been pretty busy lately.

 

[MTNSleder]

Sounds like to me your turning the nut the wrong way. try the other way...

 

[Hellion]

You don't need gravity for penetrating oil to work is magic. The phenomenon known as capillary action will do the trick.

Yeah, you do need gravity. Instead of any excess fluid dripping off the nut and axle threads (if horizontal) as soon as it is sprayed on, it'll pool on the end of the nut (if axle is vertical) and eventually work its way down by the aforementioned capillary action and by gravity and so forth. It will soak in. Keeps you from wasting this expensive product. Pretty pricey per 12 oz. can, ya knows.

In case you haven't thought about it I'll mention that with the bolts removed from the wheels only a small amount of air pressure is required to make them quite dangerous.

What do you mean by dangerous because of air pressure? The wheels are completely deflated so I don't see how they could have any pressure to make them dangerous. Unless you're talking about using air pressure with an impact wrench... sorry I just don't understand

I don't understand this either.

The nut splitters that I have seen online wouldn't fit into the rim from what I can tell. Since the bolt is deep inside the rim the splitter would be working at an angle. I'm not sure if that would still work.

You are correct. A nut splitter won't fit in the recess. Good call.

...The wheel is also held on by a keyway block thing and it seemed just as tough as the wheels. Any idea on how to get that out?

The keyway is the slot. The locking part is the key. A piece of 1/4" x 1/4" keystock is what's usually used. It's just square steel rod that is cut to desired length (e.g. made into keys) for axles and other shafts.

One you get the axle nut off and the wheel too dadgummit, the key might have welded itself in place by a process called 'galvanic corrosion' because of the two dissimilar metals--steel and aluminum. Again, penetrating fluid, heat and physical force are your friends here. I would tap it out of the keyway with a ball peen hammer and a hardened steel punch, about 3/16" diameter or such.

'Bout time to just take it to your local auto mechanic/grease monkey/shadetree mechanic and have him air-impact-wrench the nut off. There's no dishonor in falling in battle before a superior foe.

Good deal, good deal. This is progress even though it may not feel like it.

 

[Kansaskart]

Lol, if the nuts really that bad wait till you try getting the rims off. Whoever said pipe wrench on axle and breaker with cheater gets the prize. Maybe start lifting weights also lol.

 

[Kansaskart]

But to be fair, pb, heat, yeah its all good. You're gona need it all lol.

---------- Post added at 07:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:40 PM ----------

I should' ve looked at all the posts. When you use the pipe wrench or vise grips try to find a place on the kart where when you turn the axle it will brace. Could do some axle damage but that could be sanded smooth. There is no hub. Its a 1" axle turned to 3/4" on the ends. The inside rim has a 1" hole. The outter has a 3/4" hole. So when you slide it on the outter rim hits the shoulder of the 1" shaft and keeps it from going any further.

 

[Hellion]

...I should've looked at all the posts...

Always a good idea otherwise the rest of us might think you don't know what you're talking about.

 

[Kansaskart]

Lol. At least when I give advice it's something i've done before and if not ill say so. Unlike a couple friends of mine that have answers for everything. Boy if that doesn't get old.

 

[Scout]

I don't understand this either.

If you remove the bolts that hold the wheel halves together, a little bit of pressure could cause the halves to suddenly split.

 

[CatmanDobbins]

I should' ve looked at all the posts. When you use the pipe wrench or vise grips try to find a place on the kart where when you turn the axle it will brace. Could do some axle damage but that could be sanded smooth. There is no hub. Its a 1" axle turned to 3/4" on the ends. The inside rim has a 1" hole. The outter has a 3/4" hole. So when you slide it on the outter rim hits the shoulder of the 1" shaft and keeps it from going any further.


Thank you for that, now I can finally visualize what the heck these wheels look like inside lol


The keyway is the slot. The locking part is the key. A piece of 1/4" x 1/4" keystock is what's usually used. It's just square steel rod that is cut to desired length (e.g. made into keys) for axles and other shafts.

One you get the axle nut off and the wheel too dadgummit, the key might have welded itself in place by a process called 'galvanic corrosion' because of the two dissimilar metals--steel and aluminum. Again, penetrating fluid, heat and physical force are your friends here. I would tap it out of the keyway with a ball peen hammer and a hardened steel punch, about 3/16" diameter or such.

'Bout time to just take it to your local auto mechanic/grease monkey/shadetree mechanic and have him air-impact-wrench the nut off. There's no dishonor in falling in battle before a superior foe.

Good deal, good deal. This is progress even though it may not feel like it.


I see. So you are saying that the wheels will come off without first removing the key from the keyway?

Speaking of which, I have about 4 other things stuck to the axle (both bearings, the sprocket, and the brake) that I'd like to know how to take off when I need to. I might make a separate post about it soon, but do you think that the keys are holding those things on or are they all just galvanically corroded on? If it's the keys then how would you suggest bashing those out. None of my screwdrivers fit in the keyway. (Edit) I now realize that you suggested a hardened steel punch. Maybe I have one lying around.

If the keys aren't stopping me from pulling those things off the axle then it wouldn't be smart to heat the bearings up right? With all the lubricant and stuff in them things are bound to get messy. PB blaster would probably be my only option to loosen them and then I guess I could smash them with a hammer.


If you remove the bolts that hold the wheel halves together, a little bit of pressure could cause the halves to suddenly split.


Thanks for the info. I'll make sure to put the bolts back in before getting the wheels off.

 

[Hellion]

I see. So you are saying that the wheels will come off without first removing the key from the keyway?

No, not exactly. I would hope the wheels can come off independent of the axle keys but that's a 50/50 chance or worse.

Speaking of which, I have about 4 other things stuck to the axle (both bearings, the sprocket, and the brake) that I'd like to know how to take off when I need to. I might make a separate post about it soon, but do you think that the keys are holding those things on or are they all just galvanically corroded on? If it's the keys then how would you suggest bashing those out. None of my screwdrivers fit in the keyway. (Edit) I now realize that you suggested a hardened steel punch. Maybe I have one lying around.

Yeeeup. A punch or some kind of blunt driver, preferably slightly smaller than the key size will do. A screwdriver doesn't have enough area on the tip to effectively transfer the force. You'll likely end up just forming dimples on the end of the key with it, instead of moving it. Man, what an ordeal this is....

If the keys aren't stopping me from pulling those things off the axle then it wouldn't be smart to heat the bearings up right? With all the lubricant and stuff in them things are bound to get messy. PB blaster would probably be my only option to loosen them and then I guess I could smash them with a hammer.

We need to see more photos of your complete axle with all the bearings, bearing holders, sprockets, brake rotor or drum, etc. on it. Heck, show us the whole kart. I don't foresee much of an issue with the rest of the components, but these wheels are 'one' with the axle and are proving to be the most cumbersome to remove on account of their bulk.

 

[Scout]

]


Thanks for the info. I'll make sure to put the bolts back in before getting the wheels off.

I should specify air pressure in the wheels.

 

[Hellion]

I should specify air pressure in the wheels.

Or the air pressure in the tires, to be precise. English is such a complicated language, ain't it?

 

[CatmanDobbins]

So here's a follow up about a week or two later.

I got the danm things off! It took me bringing the kart down to my local chopper store as nothing else worked. The guy got out his most powerful pneumatic impact wrench and slammed the bolt for about 30 seconds on each side and the bolts finally came off. Then I took it home and bashed off the wheels with a rubber mallet. These things weren't messing around. Here are some pics

 

[Hellion]

Nice. Very nice. Good closure on this chapter!

What now? Don't forget the anti seize for reassembly...

 

[CatmanDobbins]

Nice. Very nice. Good closure on this chapter!

What now? Don't forget the anti seize for reassembly...

Now it's a matter of using the axle for another frame and attaching new wheels. Specifically golf cart wheels. I won't forget the anti size either. Thanks for all the help

 

[mckutzy]

Id also say... dont use red locktite either.... when there is a hole for a cotter pin and castle nut.