Another jet ski project

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Doc Sprocket

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Wait a minute- I'm not quite following. Are you suggesting driving the rear wheels with a PWC engine and the front wheels with an industrial engine? How absolutely impossible is it going to be to sync the two engines?

As we've touched on before, getting the cooling system right is going to be quite a challenge.
 

SouthKart3377

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Wait a minute- I'm not quite following. Are you suggesting driving the rear wheels with a PWC engine and the front wheels with an industrial engine? How absolutely impossible is it going to be to sync the two engines?

As we've touched on before, getting the cooling system right is going to be quite a challenge.

First, the way I will do it they won't have to sync. when I turn on the front engine I will kill the rear engine and front wheel drive the kart up the mountain, then kill the front engine and start the rear. A car RADIATOR should work with no thermo right? Do I need to slow the flow on the outlet or something? Will my 16in tires work for front wheel drive? I want to use the 22s on the back of this.

Will car air filters and mufflers fit that, if so I have all three of these http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/exhaust/small-tail-pipe-expander-37352.html
so I could make four custom staged straight pipes.
 

Doc Sprocket

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I totally do not understand why you want the two-engine deal to happen. Not only does it add a pile of extra weight, there is a ton of extra complexity. Now you're into U-Joints and hollow front knuckles and stuff to make it happen.

If you absolutely insist on having the front wheels driven, bite the bullet and get a donor 4x4 quad, and put all the running gear on the chassis of your choice. No insult intended, but I very strongly doubt you appreciate the massive hemmorhoid you're toying with.

Regarding cooling, you cannot "guess" what you need to do until you study the engine. Is it open-loop or closed loop? What is the "normal" operating temperature of this engine? Does the engine rely on a thermostat to regulate coolant flow? The answers to these questions determine what you need to do, and they completely depend on the specific engine you intend to use.

Here's another logistics problem for you- what will you do for clutching and power transmission with an engine that has no clutch components made to work with it?

Sorry to pee on your campfire, but there's nothing worse than getting all hot and bothered on a project that you can never finish and have to abandon because it was too far-fetched for your tools/skill/budget. Just my 2 cents.
 

karl

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Yea, and it is quite useless. The jetski motor will have plenty of power, the 8hp would slow it down more than anything.
 

SouthKart3377

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I totally do not understand why you want the two-engine deal to happen. Not only does it add a pile of extra weight, there is a ton of extra complexity. Now you're into U-Joints and hollow front knuckles and stuff to make it happen.

If you absolutely insist on having the front wheels driven, bite the bullet and get a donor 4x4 quad, and put all the running gear on the chassis of your choice. No insult intended, but I very strongly doubt you appreciate the massive hemmorhoid you're toying with.

Regarding cooling, you cannot "guess" what you need to do until you study the engine. Is it open-loop or closed loop? What is the "normal" operating temperature of this engine? Does the engine rely on a thermostat to regulate coolant flow? The answers to these questions determine what you need to do, and they completely depend on the specific engine you intend to use.

Here's another logistics problem for you- what will you do for clutching and power transmission with an engine that has not clutch components made to work with it?

Sorry to pee on your campfire, but there's nothing worse than getting all hot and bothered on a project that you can never finish and have to abandon because it was too far-fetched for your tools/skill/budget. Just my 2 cents.

:idea2: I'm not going to do the 4 drive. I will use a 1976 chevy ac cooler/RADIATOR I think for the clutch I will 2:1 chain to this clutch http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-3003&catname=misc and then chain 1:1 . That gives me 8:1 total ratio, 2:1 in the clutch. Est. Top speed 58mph perrfect
 

devino246

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Why the he// would you want to use fwd to go up a mountain?? It'll be wheel spin city. It's clear that you dont exactly know what your doing.
 

SouthKart3377

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That is not a clutch, It is a Gearbox.

They say it has "Manual engagement lever."

Why the he// would you want to use fwd to go up a mountain?? It'll be wheel spin city. It's clear that you dont exactly know what your doing.

Then why whould people who know what they are doing (such as my grandfather with 60 years exp. with small amd large engines do that) My front wheel drive deville go up the mountain just fine. I will not be doing the f-wheel drive.



New Ideas

I plan to extend the rear of the streaker with angle steel. Remove the OEM rear axle. Mount up a live axle that I have laying in the yard, to make room for the jets engine and my jackshafts.
 

DudeRadster

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Personally, I'd buy the Jet-Ski, fix it and then actually use it on the water. But it's your project, dude. I don't have as much expertise as some of these guys, but my guess is that with good traction, you will get better power with FWD, but with bad traction, you will just spin your wheels with FWD. Probably one of the reasons why they still make heavy cars, trucks and vans with RWD. It makes the mileage and acceleration suck, but you get better traction on slippery surfaces. Just a logic guess.
 

SouthKart3377

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Personally, I'd buy the Jet-Ski, fix it and then actually use it on the water. But it's your project, dude. I don't have as much expertise as some of these guys, but my guess is that with good traction, you will get better power with FWD, but with bad traction, you will just spin your wheels with FWD. Probably one of the reasons why they still make heavy cars, trucks and vans with RWD. It makes the mileage and acceleration suck, but you get better traction on slippery surfaces. Just a logic guess.

I the state of Va you have to be 15 to use a jet ski I'm not. So I can drive a boat all day long (because I have taken the class) but I can't use a pwc with half the power and 1/4 the size. I want my kart to be the best in the county.
 

Doc Sprocket

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That is not a clutch, It is a Gearbox.

I'll second that. It will not slip like a clutch needs to. Waste of money.

I don't suggest angle iron for frame members either. Track down some appropriate SHS or RHS. Heck, even Sch40 gas pipe.

You want your kart to be the best? Then a little word of advise from somebody who's been around the block a couple o' times- Stick to tried and true technology. Use a bike, quad, or snowmobile engine. If you do, your biggest problem will be adapting it to fit. No fooling around trying to get a cooling system working right that was never meant to be, no messing around with a driveline that doesn't exist. Adapt the mounts, run the chain, connect the throttle (and clutch/shift if applicable) and go.

Because I promise you, PROMISE... That if you go ahead as planned, you're going to pour an insane amount of time, effort, and money into a pile of scrap that's going to spend a LOT more time down than up. You are probably going to get frustrated and give up, and it'll be a total waste. You may fry the engine in the process, you may not, but I'll say this- the COOLEST kart in the county runs, and runs reliably and flawlessly every time. Nothing cool about being broken down... again.
 

SouthKart3377

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I'll second that. It will not slip like a clutch needs to. Waste of money.

I don't suggest angle iron for frame members either. Track down some appropriate SHS or RHS. Heck, even Sch40 gas pipe.

You want your kart to be the best? Then a little word of advise from somebody who's been around the block a couple o' times- Stick to tried and true technology. Use a bike, quad, or snowmobile engine. If you do, your biggest problem will be adapting it to fit. No fooling around trying to get a cooling system working right that was never meant to be, no messing around with a driveline that doesn't exist. Adapt the mounts, run the chain, connect the throttle (and clutch/shift if applicable) and go.

Because I promise you, PROMISE... That if you go ahead as planned, you're going to pour an insane amount of time, effort, and money into a pile of scrap that's going to spend a LOT more time down than up. You are probably going to get frustrated and give up, and it'll be a total waste. You may fry the engine in the process, you may not, but I'll say this- the COOLEST kart in the county runs, and runs reliably and flawlessly every time. Nothing cool about being broken down... again.

What about a volvo turbo inline4 and auto tranny with e-over drive or I think you will like this one 600cc bike engine.
 

Doc Sprocket

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Go with the bike, but be sure that the frame is strong enough, and all the steering, driveline and braking components are up to the task.
 

SouthKart3377

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Go with the bike, but be sure that the frame is strong enough, and all the steering, driveline and braking components are up to the task.

I just remebered a buddy o' mine told me he would give me a 115 yamaha running and rideable for the 8hp streaker kart. I think I will do it when grandpa finishes the carb. I think I'll give him 50 bucks too, for all his trouble.
 

sideways

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I still don't really understand how you're gonna cool the PWC engine. Those are typically cooled by surrounding water. Not much surrounding water on a mountain.

[/ThreadDig]

Most outboards (And I'll assume Jet Skis do too) have a thermostat and run at relatively normal temperatures.
 
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