and so it begins......

[moose]

There called cable sleeves pal. I gonna use them but I don't know how I'm going to get the cable from the pedal down the chassis, and then bend it to get the throttle cable obviously the lever on the carb isn't level with the pedal......

Uhhhh.. what? You should be able to route the cable however you want. Terminology for bicycles is inner cable (shift/ brake) and housing here.

If you use a bike cable (cheap and easy), one end has a lug that you can use at the pedal end, all you need to do is put a stop for the housing somewhere before the pedal. The engine side should have provisions to hold the housing and clamp the inner cable.

If you cut the housing, be sure to trim and file the end, then put the little metal cap back on. These caps are pretty important.

Also grease the inner cable.

Hope this helps!

 

[davidbooth1991]

Uhhhh.. what? You should be able to route the cable however you want. Terminology for bicycles is inner cable (shift/ brake) and housing here.

If you use a bike cable (cheap and easy), one end has a lug that you can use at the pedal end, all you need to do is put a stop for the housing somewhere before the pedal. The engine side should have provisions to hold the housing and clamp the inner cable.

If you cut the housing, be sure to trim and file the end, then put the little metal cap back on. These caps are pretty important.

Also grease the inner cable.

Hope this helps!

Thanks a lot everyone. Really like your suggestions.
Im Just not sure about the track to the throttle arm. Obvioisly when the cable pulls I can't have it ribbing against anything on the frame
as of turns and changes direction to reach the arm.....

 

[moose]

The cable housing is a flexible metal casing (usually wound strips or linear wires) that can turn >180deg with gradual bends. Basically start at your pedal, you will have a small distance from cable-pedal attachment to where the cable housing starts. There needs to be some kind of lug for the housing, and it should be a straight shot from housing to attachment, inline with housing. Then you run housing to the engine, which should have some way to attach a throttle cable (otherwise we need to get creative)

Maybe take a picture of the engine to give a better idea of what your working with.

How long is the run of cable?

 

[davidbooth1991]

The cable housing is a flexible metal casing (usually wound strips or linear wires) that can turn >180deg with gradual bends. Basically start at your pedal, you will have a small distance from cable-pedal attachment to where the cable housing starts. There needs to be some kind of lug for the housing, and it should be a straight shot from housing to attachment, inline with housing. Then you run housing to the engine, which should have some way to attach a throttle cable (otherwise we need to get creative)

Maybe take a picture of the engine to give a better idea of what your working with.

How long is the run of cable?

Cheers moose.
I know what you mean about the cable sleeve but will it last the long run. But your right it will work and I supose I'm better off it rubbing Inside the greased sleeve than just on the frame...I don't have the engine yet, I was due to pick it up last week but I has a scrap with the belt Sander and lost

 

[moose]

It should last. Housing has teflon liner, steel winding, and plastic casing. Your throttle shouldnt take much force to overcome the spring, and you really should have a positive stop on the pedal to prevent pulling the cable out or breaking something.

Bicycles use cables for brakes, and those last 20+years. Think of how hard you would squeeze the brakes vs. how light the throttle should be.

 

[davidbooth1991]

Yeah, I get the terminology...I'll just run some cable strate from the pedal, under the chassis, up behind the seat and into the throttle arm on the carb obviously with the cable sleeve on...cheers moose

 

[OzFab]

Wait, hold up, I think there's a bit of miscommunication here; let me explain:

David, do you see in the pic I posted in my previous post, there's a plate in behind the pedal (as on the kart)? That's a stop plate, its job is to stop the housing (or sheath) from moving while the inner cable is free to move...

So, what you need to do is create a point near the pedal that will hold the housing but not the inner cable; Have a look at the setup in the pic below, you'll see what I'm on about (that's just a pic I had on hand, I can get a better one if you need...)

 

[davidbooth1991]

Wait, hold up, I think there's a bit of miscommunication here; let me explain:

David, do you see in the pic I posted in my previous post, there's a plate in behind the pedal (as on the kart)? That's a stop plate, its job is to stop the housing (or sheath) from moving while the inner cable is free to move...

So, what you need to do is create a point near the pedal that will hold the housing but not the inner cable; Have a look at the setup in the pic below, you'll see what I'm on about (that's just a pic I had on hand, I can get a better one if you need...)

Yh, thanks fabroman that's a big help. Thanks to moose as well matey. Now I get you. I don't have to use wheels to angle my cable I'll just use the housing. And I'll male some plates with a slot or a tapped hole to hold the housing still.

 

[firemanjim]

Oooooo,aahhhhhh....... So pictures REALLY DO HELP? lolgoku

I'm glad Tony posted the pic. It's easier to explain when you can see.....
Dave, the cable sits inside a plastic tube (the good ones anyway) wich is wrapped in a steel coil (for semi rigidity) and then covered in black (usually ) to keep out contaminants. It is the back bone for the cable itself.
If you wrap a string around your finger and pull it, it just gets tight. Now put that string inside a drinking straw and wrap THAT around your finger. Now when you pull the string, it gets snug, but pulls through with no problem. I hope this makes sense. It's how I explain the way a cable works to customers..... I "push" to buy the better cables, because they work better and last longer. And depending on the type you use, you can make the path of travel pretty complicated. Mid mounted vw engine set ups in sandrails use a solid core cable to do the shifting. It pulls, pushes, and it allows you to work an"H gate " shifter.....

 

[davidbooth1991]

Oooooo,aahhhhhh....... So pictures REALLY DO HELP? lolgoku

I'm glad Tony posted the pic. It's easier to explain when you can see.....
Dave, the cable sits inside a plastic tube (the good ones anyway) wich is wrapped in a steel coil (for semi rigidity) and then covered in black (usually ) to keep out contaminants. It is the back bone for the cable itself.
If you wrap a string around your finger and pull it, it just gets tight. Now put that string inside a drinking straw and wrap THAT around your finger. Now when you pull the string, it gets snug, but pulls through with no problem. I hope this makes sense. It's how I explain the way a cable works to customers..... I "push" to buy the better cables, because they work better and last longer. And depending on the type you use, you can make the path of travel pretty complicated. Mid mounted vw engine set ups in sandrails use a solid core cable to do the shifting. It pulls, pushes, and it allows you to work an"H gate " shifter.....

Thanks for the help guys

That's a great anology jim I'll do that..

Oh yeah glad your back mate

 

[davidbooth1991]

So I'm going with 6.5hp 190cc. Centrifugal clutch with 36 on the axle. What shall I have on the drive?? Also will this be enough ???
Obviously the higher top end I go, the more the acceleration will suffer. I'd be happy with 30-40.... Mph

 

[davidbooth1991]

I don't want to really mess about with the engine as well.....

 

[karte_m0lim]

To calculate gear ratios you need number of toooths on both sprocket, wheel size and engine rpm...

 

[firemanjim]

So I'm going with 6.5hp 190cc. Centrifugal clutch with 36 on the axle. What shall I have on the drive?? Also will this be enough ???
Obviously the higher top end I go, the more the acceleration will suffer. I'd be happy with 30-40.... Mph

If you are using a #35 chain, then your current gear ratio would be 3:1....... That's not gonna work.
If you are using a #40/41 chain, your current gear ratio would be 3.6:1..... That's better, but still not gonna work.
For street use, I go to maybe 4.8:1 --- 4.6:1, but with the higher the ratio, I use a higher stall clutch. Your AVERAGE (best overall ratio) is going to be 6:1.
MAYBE, just MAYBE you can get away with 3.6:1 using a torque converter, but it would be strictly street use, FLAT streets......
And you're gonna have to have less than a 12" tall tire.....

 

[davidbooth1991]

Well a torque convertors out of the question. Because i have little money...also my wheels are 13" tall. I used the calculator and it gave me the speed I'd like....I put the rpm at 3600 (average)...I'm only gonna be on dirt tracks and flat road...would a clutch not work..

 

[OzFab]

I used the calculator and it gave me the speed I'd like....

Dave, there's an old saying "everything works in theory, it's when you put that theory into practice that it fails"

You may have found your desired speed but, by then, the ratio is totally unreasonable & 3:1 or even 3.6:1 is totally unreasonable...

Look at my kart; lightweight (around 40kg), around 8-9hp, 10" rear tyres & it's running 5:1 gears; I could maybe stretch it to 4.5:1 but, I'd be pushing it (in more than one way )

 

[davidbooth1991]

Dave, there's an old saying "everything works in theory, it's when you put that theory into practice that it fails"

You may have found your desired speed but, by then, the ratio is totally unreasonable & 3:1 or even 3.6:1 is totally unreasonable...

Look at my kart; lightweight (around 40kg), around 8-9hp, 10" rear tyres & it's running 5:1 gears; I could maybe stretch it to 4.5:1 but, I'd be pushing it (in more than one way )

Ok guys I know the basics of gearing (3:1) 36 axle and 12 on a clutch. 36÷12=3 front spins three times to the rear only spinning once. But where does you (4) come into it. (4.5:1) ?? And how can I put this to practice??? Many thanks fabroman.

 

[firemanjim]

Dave, with a 13" tire and a 12 tooth clutch, you don't want any less than a 60 tooth sprocket on the axle. That will give you 5:1..... Pretty good take off, pretty good speed.....

 

[davidbooth1991]

Cheers Jim , thanks for the help .....I have a thirst for knowledge, I need to know how you know lol. What equasions have you got to go through.and where does the other part of the ratio come in to it. (4.5:1) other part being the four... Once again many thanks Jim

 

[davidbooth1991]

So I've been looking at new sprockets and was wondering what's best.. I need to measure my Chain to get the right pitch but there are some (219) 60 teeth sprockets I can get on eBay. Does anyone happen to k ow what chain I need. I get confused as to why there are #35,40,41 etc. And then pitches.......do i just measure pin to pin on the chain ????