Ancient or new engine?

[IBprogram]

Hi all... I'm working on my year long project for my IB project in school. This forum is cool, but get's me in trouble, on here more then I study. shhhh

Today I will complete cutting the material for my frame and should start welding this weekend. Still need practice on that, but getting better.

Trying to figure out the motor I want to use. I was donated an old B&S engine, but not sure it meets my criteria(need for speed). Would I be better off buying a HF Predator and build that up or just try to build this ancient engine up, I was told it works. My sponsor(parents) said if I want the Predator it would be on my dime, but I want to have something with speed. The B&S numbers are: 130292 0793 01 79042307.
I figured out that its a 79' and Cubic displacement is 13 = 213cc, the design is 0 with horizontal shaft, plain bearing auxillary Drive parallel to crankshaft and a rewind starter.

Any comments or suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

[B man]

some picks would be nice. Its would be VERY easy just to build that motor. and it would save you a couple dimes. If its in decint shape and runs then id build it. It'll be WAY tougher (durability wise) than a predator engine. Also very easy to find parts as well.

 

[IBprogram]

I will post pics of the engine. Hopefully by end of weekend I can have frame pictures.

I know that the sprocket, clutch, and tires have a lot to determine the power on the start and high end, but do you think this could get me a good balance of power? Is 45mph aiming to high? I'm still searching on the forum for a good thread and rebuilding engine.

The clones have those kits you can buy which is nice.

Thanks for your response

 

[B man]

Briggs have kits to i believe. and no. 45mph is pretty reasonable. and yeah the gearing has alot to do with the torque and speed.

But if that briggs isnt trashed it wont need rebuilding.

heck for what your wanting just remove the governor and install a straight pipe and high flow air filter and maybe a rejet. With good gearing it could hit 45 no prob.

 

[jamyers]

Briggs 5hp flatty is awful hard to beat, especially a free one!
I'm pretty sure that's a "Cool-Bore", which means it has an aluminum cylinder bore, which means it's not going to last as long as an engine with a cast-iron bore. That said, there are millions of Cool-Bores out there still running.

Only major reason I wouldn't use the Briggs - if the bore is so worn that it needs boring/honing, and it's easy to check - just yank the flathead off and mic the bore with the piston at the bottom.

 

[B man]

Did they even have cool-bore in 1979? thats when I/C came out.

and actually its more likely to be cast iron sleeve bore. Since its a 79. that is if its a I/C engine.


but it will have points ignition. which i convert to solid state.

 

[jamyers]

Did they even have cool-bore in 1979? thats when I/C came out.

and actually its more likely to be cast iron sleeve bore. Since its a 79. that is if its a I/C engine.


but it will have points ignition. which i convert to solid state.

Cool-Bores have been around since the late 50's until they quit making flatheads. Unless it's marked I/C, it's probably a cool-core. I'm sure there's a decoder somewhere online that'd tell, but the only way to tell for SURE is pop the head off and see if there's a cast-iron liner or not.

 

[OzFab]

A brand new Predator isn't going to do anything that good ol' B&S won't do for you, in fact, IMO, you're better off with the B&S. First things first, let's get it running...

Briggs 5hp flatty is awful hard to beat, especially a free one!

Yep, they're pretty hard to kill too, plus there's loads of performance parts & mods too

 

[zbuck]

One thing, if your going to remove the governor. You had better pull the side cover and replace that sheet metal oil dipper/slinger. Those stock sheet metal dippers/slingers do not like anything over 3600 r's. Also if you remove the governor, do not forget to take the governor thrust washer out. They like to stick to the block and work there way off the shaft and cause one heck of a disaster with the engine internals.

 

[IBprogram]

Trying to do pictures

 

[IBprogram]

Pictures

Here is a some pictures.

Looks like some one may have shaved the eyebrows wrong or did the engine get to hot? Should I move forward with this engine and try to build that up?

Another question is I will have the brake and gas pedals beyond the steering is this ok.

By the way you guys rock!

 

[Bluethunder3320]

it looks like someone's been in there before you

i wouldnt try building it up because you may warp the valve seats or cylinder

look for a cast iron liner once you remove that head gasket. i think you can use a magnet to find out if thats cast iron or not.

overall it looks in good shape and if it has the cast iron liner i say use it, if its aluminum bore i wouldnt use it.

the brake and pedals beyond the steering is fine, on my friends manco the pedals hit into the tie rods its annoying. i see no reason that you cant.

 

[jamyers]

Here is a some pictures.

Looks like some one may have shaved the eyebrows wrong or did the engine get to hot? Should I move forward with this engine and try to build that up?

Looks like a Cool-Bore, I don't see a liner there along the edge between the valves / bore.

Also, doesn't look to me like anybody's shaved the 'eyebrows' either, that area between the valves and the bore can be taken down a bit for big gains in flow, look at my "Texas Terror" build thread in my sig, I've got pics of my diy-porting and head-flattening you can compare to.

I'd measure that bore with a micrometer, and unless it's severely worn and/or out-of-round I'd go ahead and build it - because it's free (you already have it), and any performance parts you put in it will easily swap into another Briggs flathead later on. Cool-Bores get a bad rap, but imho it's mostly because of being run hard and put up wet (with no oil changes).

 

[OzFab]

With the naked eye, the engine looks ok, nothing a quick clean won't fix.

Is that a reduction box on the side of the engine?

 

[tundrabeagle3]

the briggs tend to rev higher than the predator stock with the governor removed. but the rod dipper is very prone to breaking when ran at high rpms luckily a briggs used billet rod is only $30 on ebay. I actually prefer the older "ancient" briggs fh to the newer ones. i believe the briggs with points to be much more reliable than the newer ones and they are better quality. I wish i had an old briggs to soup up. not sure what that extra shaft does either.

i was in the International Baccalaureate (IB) program as well

 

[IBprogram]

thanks guys for your thoughts and tundra that's awesome, I'm actually in the MYP which is the middle years of it.

The intake valve has a gash in it too. I'm going for it and building it. If it doesn't work I will chalk it up for experience and take it to the next build.

After talking to my parents they are willing to get me what I need, but didn't want me to take the easy way out. I'm committed to this build. I forgot to take the free lessons in life that you can get.

 

[jamyers]

...
Is that a reduction box on the side of the engine?

Yup, that's what it is, iirc it's prolly a 2:1 reduction. Can be easily removed, just like the governor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[OzFab]

Is that a reduction box on the side of the engine?

Yup, that's what it is, iirc it's prolly a 2:1 reduction.

So, what with the two shafts?

The intake valve has a gash in it too.

Well, that'll make it run a bit rough I didn't pick that up in the blurry pic :toetap05:

I'm going for it and building it. If it doesn't work I will chalk it up for experience and take it to the next build.

After talking to my parents they are willing to get me what I need, but didn't want me to take the easy way out

That's the spirit I like your parents already

 

[B man]

Its not a reduction box. thats a normal crank shaft. turns hower ever fast it does rpm. the second was used to drive something else on the machine. it turns 2:1 i think,

 

[Gokartguy04]

I thought that the shaft on the side is on the cam and runs in reverse

Just my 2 cents