Am I gonna break stuff???

[Kart Simpson]

As a lot of you may know I just completed my first engine build. I gave a Predator 6.5 a makeover. Not running perfect yet but thats only a few adjustments away with the help of you here. But I noticed that when I do have it running it is just an unbelievable difference from stock. It is very responsive to quick throttle and will be ranging much higher RPM's if I choose to do so. My original idea is a motorized Big Wheel / Trike. My daughter saw a video I was watching of one and she said "Daddy can you make me one of those" so naturally I thought... that would be a great garage project for the winter so I said "Of course I will sweetpea" (She is 9 yrs. old, & will be governed via throttle limit when she is on it, along with her helmet). She currently has a go kart, 4 wheel quad & soon a Big Wheel. But With this engine I am wondering if the parts I already purchased for it will be strong enough for when adults are riding it. $20 sprocket from eBay, #40 chain & steel sprocket.

 

[Poboy kartman]

Parts should be strong enough.....but...you can't govern the speed with throttle control....you will burn up the clutch.....

 

[traxman]

Use a tourque converter.it does alot better than centrifugal at lower rpm.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Aside from burning up the clutch, there is another issue to trying to govern speed using throttle limiting. Load.at say, 1/4 throttle, the engine will barely accelerate from a stop. Might not even go uphill. Downhill, it might even ovverrev to destruction.

When it comes to kids' rides especially, I always advise using the governor and limiting speed via gearing.

 

[Xtreme Yard Karts]

Aside from burning up the clutch, there is another issue to trying to govern speed using throttle limiting. Load.at say, 1/4 throttle, the engine will barely accelerate from a stop. Might not even go uphill. Downhill, it might even ovverrev to destruction.

When it comes to kids' rides especially, I always advise using the governor and limiting speed via gearing.

X2!

 

[itsid]

make that three!

never limi the throttle.. that clutch engages at ~2200 rpm, with full lock closer to 2500 rpm...
limiting the rpms of the engine might not fully lock the clutch (thus it'll overheat)
and even if you do, it's basically nothing but a stop&go control

limiting speed with the gear ratio will leave enough rpm band to actually CONTROL the speed, which is much safer than a simple on-off setting.

'sid

 

[OzFab]

Motion carried

 

[Kart Simpson]

Well the jury has spoken. I think I will leave this toy to dad & friends. I also learned that with a drift trike, you want to be able to throw high rpm's in order to get your rear tires to spin and slide to assist in steering. So this is going to want to be run high and not just putting around. The daughter will need to stick with her go kart and 4 wheeler for now. I just started the trike build. Waiting on a few parts to come in the mail so I can mock up my front end and see where things are gonna line up and then I can cut the cart to length. Just laying out some pieces I cut for now.

 

[Kart Simpson]

Oops wrong pic. I am at work and dont have time to figure out how to delete pic so here is the one I meant to send. I may need a smaller diameter sprocket. This one is low to ground. Anyone have any recommendations. I have a 10 tooth clutch for #40/41 chain. Tires are 10" diameter. I will also have chain guards in place to protect rider

 

[Kart Simpson]

Thinking of getting torque converter. I read the sticky on them and guessing it would be best for my drift trike. I seen some on ebay but nit sure which one I need. 3/4" clutc, 5/8" driven..... 3/4" clutch, 3/4" drive????? TAV 2,3??? I know my shaft on engine is 3/4". I have new 40/41 chain already. Tires are 10" o.d.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

I've never built a drift anything. But the more I think about it, the more I cannot help but think that as much as I like CVT's, it may not be the right choice for a drift machine. I think that if this were MY project, I would instead spend that money on a quality race clutch. In my mind, it is preferable to have a potentially firmer engagement, that can be dialled up to a higher RPM. Kind of like a performance stall converter on a car. Do note that a "torque converter" (CVT) in this particular context, is not all that similar to the form and function of the torque converter on an automatic transmission-equipped car.

At any rate, I picture it being beneficial to be able to get the revs up quite a bit before engagement, and have the clutch grab somewhat suddenly, breaking traction and delivering wheel speed. Drifting works a lot better with minimal traction, right?

 

[itsid]

IDK to be honest..

I think the ideal would be the downs bros manual clutch, but I haven't heard anything
and their website is still down.. so maybe it was that one shot only (sad I missed my opportunity to buy one )

Anyways, the problem I'm seeing with a high rpm engaging racing clutch is,
that it'll break traction on the rear wheels very nicely.. but constantly..
even without sleeved tyres...
And at least sometimes you might want to have control

A cvt (which indeed is the better terminology here) you could have both -more or less-
sleeved the wheels will immediately break traction because of the torque on low end, and will spin fast and wild enough to not regain traction anytime sonn..
unsleeved wheel traction can be controlled by feathering the throttle.

Again, since there is nearly no difference in the amount to spend for a racing clutch or TC..
I'd go for a TC, not because it's better for drifting (it might NOT) but because to have the option to not drift

'sid

 

[Kart Simpson]

Hmmmmm, well I do have a clutch coming on Wednesday. It is a Hilliard Extreme Duty. I ordered it before thinking about a tc. So maybe I will just try the clutch for now and see how it goes. I was thinking about the tc because if there are any brackets that I need to install I could do it now as I am just beginning my build as pictured in post #10 above. Would a torque converter work with the way I have the axle in front of the engine??

 

[Doc Sprocket]

A self conatained CVT such as the Comet TAV2 requires NO additional bracketry. Bolts right up to the engine, that's all. It WILL work with your current configuration.
The Hilliard is an off-the-shelf utility clutch. Not at all what I was describing.