Has anyone adapted an aisin amr 300 to a 124 dirtbike engine? I traded a garden trailer for a willys body on a coyote modified racing cart frame. It had a brigs 3.5hp engine. The rear axle was a solid axle. When you were in the pedal it wouldnt turn no matter how you had the steering turned. I spoke with a few people and they suggested cutting the rear axle in two. While i had it apart i ordered a 124cc engine with 3 forward gears and reverse. It came in and i made mounts and modified everything to get the 124 in the cart. As i measured and choped. I made an excecutive decision. Super charge it. Its coming along. My questions will be soon as to how to tune it and get it operating. Any advance ideas or segustions? Much needed and appreciated
Aisin amr 300 on a Japanese 124 cc
- Thread starter Indysteve
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ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
That's a lot to unpack. Did you cut the axle? I hope not.
Edwin Spangler
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Any pictures? Sounds cool. Ive seen so many introductions where someone is describing this awesome machine they have built, only to have a wall of text to stare at.
Hellion
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Unlikely with something so specific and also vague at the same time. I will say this: the 3.5HP doesn't sound like it had enough oomph to overcome the solid rear live axle plus the wide racing slicks that are commonly installed on racing karts. But I'm just spitballing here.
It's the modern equivalent of a stamped and delivered handwritten letter from 1840. Gentlemen, we have the technology to transmit photographs over the airwaves and through coaxial cable. Youths are doing this daily, 100s of photos per person per hour moving at the speed of light (or sound) and telling a story that the photo does better than 1,000 words. Truly astounding times, this current era.
65ShelbyClone
Active member
Realistically "how to make it work" should have been considered before deciding to supercharge the engine at all. And the engine is Chinese, not Japanese.
Ok so everyone heres my willys i was talkkng about. Yes i did cut the rear axle in two. But i did the mounting in such a way i can slide a bar i side the axle and reconnect the two halfs. Ive made most if not all the aluminum pie es. The mounts handlebar clamp. I figured id better get a solid brake and steering setup
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Thanks for adding me to your group. I appreciate all ya do. Makes projects like this a lot of fun. Yeee haaa
Denny
Canned Monster
Driving the blower off the end of the cam is not a good idea. The timing chain can’t take that kind of stress. Plus the cam only rotates at 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft so it would need to be over driven putting more stress on the chain.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Doesn’t turn?
Mo powwaa baby!
Mo powwaa and mo throttle!
Break traction to turn! It’s the karting way.
“Always slide forward before you lean into a turn. If your ATV has a solid rear axle or a locked differential rear axle, use these techniques. For slow turns, slide forward and to the outside—then lean into the turn. For fast turns, slide forward and to the inside—then lean into the turn.”
Mo powwaa baby!
Mo powwaa and mo throttle!
Break traction to turn! It’s the karting way.
“Always slide forward before you lean into a turn. If your ATV has a solid rear axle or a locked differential rear axle, use these techniques. For slow turns, slide forward and to the outside—then lean into the turn. For fast turns, slide forward and to the inside—then lean into the turn.”
Forgot all about the cam rotation speed. Thank you. Over drive it i will. But for now i just wanna get it together and running. What carb size do i need to use? Any ideas? Its been just a cobweb clearing idea brain exercise for me. I enjoy this fab creating something work hobby. I worked as a journeyman tool and die maker for 37 years. I have a manual machine shop in my house. Keeps me off the streets.
So ive learned that i really dont need to overdrive the blower seeing how the cam turnes at half the speed of thecrank. That means i should be at the correct amount of boost to not destroy this engine first thing. A single drive wheel will pose some problems but itll def make the turning issue not. Ive realized by building something that no one else has. There are very few that do what i do. Break things because ive not researched every point. To go to groups that seem to be a help truly are not. They seem to be a bunch of know it alls that really dont. If you really want to know how this willys finishes out let me know. I was hoping i could get some help without being critisized for my lack of planning and chastized for my zealous attack of a dreamer. Fortunitly its been this way all my life. (Smile) Im good at what i do and god has blessed me with a special talent. Thanks all even those who know everything
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Not sure how the real world results will be but I’d guess no more than half speed is what you want.
A 124cc 4 stroke uses 62cc per revolution.
A 300cc blower pushes 300cc per revolution.
If driven off the CAMSHAFT, the blower pushes 150cc per Crankshaft revolution.
150cc / 62cc =2.419
2.149 x 14.7 psi = 31.6 PSI absolute pressure
31.6 psi - 14.7 psi = 16.9 PSI
17 lbs boost? Not sure what the real world boost will be.
This might be the range of boost you are looking for. But if Denny is right about the cam and chains being weak… you could try using pulley sizing to slow down the blower if you end up switching to the crankshaft for a Drive Shaft.
A 124cc 4 stroke uses 62cc per revolution.
A 300cc blower pushes 300cc per revolution.
If driven off the CAMSHAFT, the blower pushes 150cc per Crankshaft revolution.
150cc / 62cc =2.419
2.149 x 14.7 psi = 31.6 PSI absolute pressure
31.6 psi - 14.7 psi = 16.9 PSI
17 lbs boost? Not sure what the real world boost will be.
This might be the range of boost you are looking for. But if Denny is right about the cam and chains being weak… you could try using pulley sizing to slow down the blower if you end up switching to the crankshaft for a Drive Shaft.