Air compressor Trouble shooting

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itsid

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Frankly.. unless your in a third world country,
neither cap does anything BUT start the motor..

in fact it does not even that.. it only determines the direction of which way the rotor turns by increasing one phase and reducing the other on startup.
Once the motor is running, a universal motor is fine w/o caps.

And that's the whole point.. you flipepd the rotor under power... deciding what direction it should turn..
it should turn that direction from then on as long as it gets powered by AC just fine..

Your analogue MM charges and discharges the cap you tested.
and depending on what setting you used it on (volts? Ohms? what?)
what you observed seems to be logical.
needle goes up
(cap was charged you read a voltage for as long as the cap is charged,
then goes down again)
the low voltage the MM uses charges the cap in reverse direction and as soon as you flip leads.. same thing just opposite direction happens.
(just as a working cap would do)

In resistance mode though the resistance should rise when the cap is charged not drop IIRC (jeez I'm getting old.. I can't remember capacitances raises or lowers resistance in foil caps?).
Anyways... continuity must never happen!
So if you ever read 0 Ohms between it's terminals (or something close by)
said cap is shortened out and must be replaced with a similar size and capacitance cap.
(the capacitance is more important than the voltage really... you can replace it with any voltage above 240V but the capacitance should be identical to what the original was, since that adjusts the force of the kick the motor will get... too low and nothing happens, too big and it'll skip on the commutator and might be running in reverse by accident)

Judging by the size, I'd say both are starter caps..
filter caps are generally a LOT smaller even for motors that size
(the filter cap on my 220V 1.6kW universal motor [ leaf blower ] is the size of a penny
the starter is about the size of a 9V block battery (just round)
the washing machine has a single CBB60 like yours [IIRC 25µF 450V] as a starter )

IDK without looking in a manual (which I don't have) but since a cap like that is about 5-8 bucks each.. replace both to be on the safe side anyways.
chances are if one's toast the other one might not see the next winter anyways.

'sid
 

2SlickNick

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Thank you very much guys. Really sucks right now LOL. I was talking to my buddy and he used an extension cord with his compressor to and it fried the motor.

I'll look up how to test the motor and coil's.

Dag nabbit...!
 

Bbqjoe

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:wai::thumbsup:;)

Just do it!
Get the new one and plumb it into the old one and have a mess of air storage!
 

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Denny

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Replace the capacitors! every air compressor I've ever owned has gone through 1 set. Seems the originals are always junk no matter what brand compressor. They are cheap $12.00 each. :thumbsup:


Denny
 

itsid

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Sid, I think on ohm setting, a cap will start at 0 and rise in resistance as the battery charges the cap.

start at 0?
filter caps are sometimes wired right between the power terminals...
at 0 ohms that'd blow the fuse right away.
Also a cap is a cap, and while there are of course different types and different uses..
in the end its two electrically charged plates(foils) seperated from one another (and the seperation is the key of all it's glory)

Anyways... as it appears the cbb60 series caps are more expensive on your side of the pond than they are on my side..
in any case they're less than a third of the price for a new compressor :D

Buying a new compressor because a cap is blown is like buying a new mini bike because the tyre lost air.

And although the amount of mini bikes in the video say otherwise.. Nick wouldn't do that :lolgoku:

'sid
 

itsid

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Ok Mr technical. Maybe not 0 ohms, but a low ohm to start and rising as it charges.
;)

Nono.. not even that!
Low ohms means current flow, there MUST NOT be ANY current flow in caps.

Low reading in the Mega-ohm scale.. perhaps..
low resistance.. nope.

A simple continuity tester is more appropiate IMHO
(since it provides a steady low voltage to test the device)
that way it cannot be confused with a cap discharge or recharge as easily.

'sid
 

ML-TOYS

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Try something, remove the output air line fron the head. Now turn fan and feel for binding. If none try to turn on with that line off.
Just an idea
 

Whitetrashrocker

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Sid. I went and grabbed 3 meters and a box of new caps.

One meter was an analog. Second was a digital. And the third was a digital that could do caps. Or at least it used to. I couldn't get the cap setting to give consistent or accurate readings. So I'll throw that out of this conversation.

I took my analog meter and put it at the highest ohm setting(1k) and attached the cap. The needle pegged out then started falling slowly as the batteries charged the cap. I then took a jumper and discharged the cap. Again attaching the meter. And again it pegged out and slowly dropped.
I did the same with the digital meter. It reacted the same.

After charging the cap, I changed the meter to DC volts and found the cap was storing 3 volts. The same as the 2 AA batteries powering it.
Both meters had the same results.

I tried several different caps and they all acted the same way.
I took a known bad cap and nothing happened.


Just my observations. I'm no electronics engineer.
 

Randy H

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Sorry you haven't found an easy solution.

Troubleshooting 101. Divide and conquer. Separate the motor from the pump.

If a discharged cap isn't shorted or open it's probably good.

If it doesn't turn over pretty easy (no pressure built up) then you have mechanical issues. Bearings?

This is an induction motor. FYI wiring determines rotation.

Good luck.
 
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