Russ2251
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Why are they painted from the factory?
advice on painting
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Bluethunder3320
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they are snow engines, its one from an old arien's blower back in the 1970- ish time.
Doc Sprocket
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Bluethunder3320
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thats one thing i was worried about as well... and i do not have access to a sandblaster. nor do i plan to buy one any time soon!
Russ2251
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My point is that (most) engines are painted from the factory...snowblower, lawnmower, generator, etc.
It was stated
It was stated
Why would factory paint the cooling fins if it is a bad thing?
Cam
Nz Petrolhead
Depends on the pressure toysory, you can alter on the nozzle, the guy at my old work was a wizard and knew the right pressures off by heart, it leaves the alu with an etch, soda blasting is cool, but unnecessary.
If ya need to know anything about sandblasting just give me a bell mate
Doc Sprocket
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Wouldn't hurt to know. With my limited blasting experience, I would just be inclined to load my gun with baking soda. That way I know for sure I can fire the stuff out @90 psi with no fear of eroding the base metal. My gun is pretty basic, I have only one nozzle. And the media I have is quite aggressive.
What would you recommend?
EDIT- I don't think I'd be too concerned about a light coat or two of paint. Multiple heavy coats over several years, I'd strip off. Just my opinion, FWIW.
What would you recommend?
EDIT- I don't think I'd be too concerned about a light coat or two of paint. Multiple heavy coats over several years, I'd strip off. Just my opinion, FWIW.
Cam
Nz Petrolhead
we use a granite / scoria compound, so technically not sand blasting but media blasting, its harsh on brazing and soft metals if you dont turn the pressure down, we are blasting in eccess of a couple hundred PSI and it absoloutly rips rust and other loose crap off, rubber comes up like a treat mate!, if ya want to make a tyre look good sandblast it!, we figure it bounces off the rubber and only leaves a small etch in the surface.
And dont bother blasting plastic it rips it up.
And for the thread - i would recommend stripping/blasting flywheel and then clear coating or light painting.
And dont bother blasting plastic it rips it up.
And for the thread - i would recommend stripping/blasting flywheel and then clear coating or light painting.
Bluethunder3320
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i already painted the flywheel flat black.
im probably going to just put it back together the way it is with o.k. paint. when i have the money and resources ill do a better job.
im probably going to just put it back together the way it is with o.k. paint. when i have the money and resources ill do a better job.
Has anyone seen that guide for a homemade soda blaster? I forget the link but Google-ing it would turn up results quickly. Personally, I like the finish of blasted aluminum. That smooth, but not polished surface is nice to hold. I did it to a hammer handle I made in Metal Tech.
Painting them with a thin coat of matt black like many motorcycle manufacturers do can be worthwhile due to blackbody radiation.
But a thick layer of pick-your-colour glossy paint is going to act as an insulator. It may cause the engine to run at a few degrees hotter.
Doc Sprocket
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This is the one I had saved-
http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/
http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/
T-man
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I have heard the same thing as Oscaryu1 and Wim. The paint will act as an insulater much like to much oil on an engine. Im sure if you run it for like a half an Hr at a time it should be ok. Just not for hours. I have a feeling that you might have some probs after that. (ie) engine vaper lock. I think thats what its called. when the engine gets to hot and it starts to act like a diesel, cant turn it off.
maybe I got that mixed up with something else.
maybe I got that mixed up with something else.
Doc Sprocket
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Dieseling and vapour lock, as I recall, are unrelated to each other. They can be heat-related.
Dieseling (or, "run-on")- when an engine refuses to shut off. A faulty ignition circuit, or carb issues are usually to blame, sometimes hot spots, carbon deposits, and a few other things.
Vapour lock- can also be caused by heat- Is when fuel turns to a gaseous state within the fuel system, before reaching the carb. Gravity, or mechanically pumped fuel systems can be a bear to restart when this occurs.
Dieseling (or, "run-on")- when an engine refuses to shut off. A faulty ignition circuit, or carb issues are usually to blame, sometimes hot spots, carbon deposits, and a few other things.
Vapour lock- can also be caused by heat- Is when fuel turns to a gaseous state within the fuel system, before reaching the carb. Gravity, or mechanically pumped fuel systems can be a bear to restart when this occurs.
Russ2251
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Never heard of heat related probs due to paint.
Doc Sprocket
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Nor have I. Another myth to bust!!!
Really, this is academic at best. I don't imagine there are too many folks that can attest to painting an engine, and having the average temperature go up n*.
I can imagine the potential for a problem if it's laid on really thick, or a specialty paint with insulating properties. But for now, it's all postulation.
Really, this is academic at best. I don't imagine there are too many folks that can attest to painting an engine, and having the average temperature go up n*.
I can imagine the potential for a problem if it's laid on really thick, or a specialty paint with insulating properties. But for now, it's all postulation.
Bluethunder3320
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well today i got the ignition coil, head gasket, and crankcase gasket in.
might take a week or two to get back together because im super busy, but well find out how it works!
i have had this motor a while and never heard it run since it was waaay overdue for a rebuild.
might take a week or two to get back together because im super busy, but well find out how it works!
i have had this motor a while and never heard it run since it was waaay overdue for a rebuild.
firekiller52
Flat Head Kinda Guy
well since you never got an answer ill try to help you out, i have personally sanblasted a briggs and stratton 5hp engine, at 120 psi line preassure, works like a charm, cleans it all nice-nice and it doesnt mess up the metal
now iv seen studys on paint vs. engine temp, 2 identical motors fed from 1 fuel tank,1 flat black, 1 chrome and bright chevy orange, the black repels heat way better, and the black motor ran cooler,
that being said, paint wont affect your cooling all that drasticly if used correctly, but i wouldnt go drownding it in paint, nor would i even consider por 15, its way too thick for anything that needs to be air cooled
also powder coating is extremly involved and doesnt need a curing light, it needs an oven, how it works is(if you understand how magnets work) - goes to + ok?
now charge the metal to be coated + , and the "powder" particles- spray on and it sticks magneticly, heat it(i belive 400+ F) and all the particles melt and you have a super hard, perfictly covered peice of metal, that engine atleast around her, would be probibly $100 or more to powdercoat a non metalic color
hope i helped
run it with the paint, shoundnt hurt,
if its an engine,use engine enamel...
simple as that
now iv seen studys on paint vs. engine temp, 2 identical motors fed from 1 fuel tank,1 flat black, 1 chrome and bright chevy orange, the black repels heat way better, and the black motor ran cooler,
that being said, paint wont affect your cooling all that drasticly if used correctly, but i wouldnt go drownding it in paint, nor would i even consider por 15, its way too thick for anything that needs to be air cooled
also powder coating is extremly involved and doesnt need a curing light, it needs an oven, how it works is(if you understand how magnets work) - goes to + ok?
now charge the metal to be coated + , and the "powder" particles- spray on and it sticks magneticly, heat it(i belive 400+ F) and all the particles melt and you have a super hard, perfictly covered peice of metal, that engine atleast around her, would be probibly $100 or more to powdercoat a non metalic color
hope i helped
run it with the paint, shoundnt hurt,
if its an engine,use engine enamel...
simple as that
Cam
Nz Petrolhead
Am i missing something?
Bluethunder3320
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i ended up just doing 2 coats of the dupli color. one was done a looonngg time ago (right after i started the thread really...) and the other about a week ago.
i still need a new blower housing though because the old one was rusted away at the bottom (i tried to weld in a patch but my welder just blew holes in the thin material)
so once i get a new one ill post pics and run it.
i still need a new blower housing though because the old one was rusted away at the bottom (i tried to weld in a patch but my welder just blew holes in the thin material)
so once i get a new one ill post pics and run it.
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