accelrator set up

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charlie croker

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hi all
building a go kart for my boy over here in blittey
its got a 36v 500w motor
3x 12v 44ah 380a batterys
my question is what is needed to control the throttle response??
any advice welcome
thanks
 

alim

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hi all
building a go kart for my boy over here in blittey
its got a 36v 500w motor
3x 12v 44ah 380a batterys
my question is what is needed to control the throttle response??
any advice welcome
thanks

Hot daaamn! 44ah batteries? Where did they come from, what is their ordinary application? They are deep cycle batteries I hope? How big are they, and how heavy?
 

charlie croker

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thanks for response guys
batterys are 063 type of cars over here.
if I go for the set up profit mentioned or what functional said . would the control box take what the batterys are kicking out
 

itsid

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You will need a controller (what profit linked) but a twist throttle is inconvenient at best;
so the pedal Functional Artist linked would be a much better option.
You STILL need a controller to match with your motor (the silcvery box that's in profit's link)

the control box takes whatever it needs (~20amps) the CCA of the car battery are as important as their color ;)
(means not at all!.. the battery is not pushing 380A to the leads, it is only allowing 380Amps to be PULLED)

'sid
 

charlie croker

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thanks itsid.
in short if I get a control box and either a pedal or twist set up wired up with the batterys and motor it will work and ill have a happy son again ?
thanks all for input
 

alim

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I could be wrong, but I believe that is a starter battery and what you actually need is a deep-cycle aka deep-discharge battery.

From the sticky: "What about CCA and CA? These are not ratings of how long a battery will last, or ratings that you will see on batteries that you want to use in a kart. Note above where I talked about starting batteries vs. deep discharge batteries. CCA stands for 'Cold Cranking Amps' and is a measure of how much current a battery can put put for just an instant when it's cold. (CA is the same thing, but not as cold- cold affect batteries) Generally, only starting batteries are rated for CCA or CA. There are some dual-use batteries that might be rated for CCA and still be deep-discharge, but these are more expensive and you can do better with a properly-sized deep-discharge battery. Big wheelchair batteries are super for most karts."
 

itsid

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The misconception I'm afraid is largely on your side alim.

for such contraption, this setup will be perfectly fine.
There is no need for deep cycle cells, since the controller WILL cut of the power anyways (undervoltageprotection) at ~28-30V enough to keep the cells alive;
and it would do the exact same thing (likely not being programmable) with deep cycle cells,
so the additional protection of such is pointless (in this application)

For high power motors where every single electron charge will be needed to get at least a decent mileage out of the metric ton of batteries, that's a different story and deep cycle cells are indeed a big enhancement.

Yes you can do lighter deep cycle cells to achieve the same with much less weight (for three to four times the price)

but frankly.. WHY?

'sid
 

charlie croker

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Hi all
got a quick update for you
fitted a 36v 600w controller and a thumb switch. connected the battery leads and heard a pop from inside the controller.
are the batterys too powerfull or am I missing something ?
 

itsid

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either you got a defective controller OR -which I'm afraid is more likely- you messed up the wiring (batteries to the motor terminals or connected in reverse)
I wasn't there.. no pictures no nothing.. hard to guess.

try to contact the seller and see what can be done (if he allows you to crack the seal and take a look inside to know what happened, do so and take a pic)

the batteries could not have caused that the controller expects 36Volts and that's what it got.

'sid
 

Functional Artist

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Hi all
got a quick update for you
fitted a 36v 600w controller and a thumb switch. connected the battery leads and heard a pop from inside the controller.
are the batterys too powerfull or am I missing something ?

YES, your missing PICTURES :useless:


What does the

...motor

...controller

...wires &/or connections that you made

...& the kart

look like?


Pictures tell a million words (they really do)
 

Functional Artist

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Looks good so far :thumbsup:

motor & battery connections look - OK

Do you have an on/off switch connected to the (key/switch) plug?

Are your batteries connected in series to provide 36V?
 

itsid

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Looks good so far :thumbsup:

motor & battery connections look - OK

Do you have an on/off switch connected to the (key/switch) plug?

Are your batteries connected in series to provide 36V?

I DISAGREE!

Yes, the conenctions made are not wrong as they are
EXCEPT they are made in the WRONG ORDER!

the Batterie always needs to be connected last and disconnected first.

throttle and switches missing, so battery must not be connected to the controller.

Simple reason, cheap controllers can have floating pins.. (i.e. the pin is either on or off as long as the correct switch/throttle is not installed)
and are likely not protected against such.

And while chances of it failing because of the battery being connected without the throttle are slim,
they're not zero!

So if you indeed connected it that way right from the start, tough luck... that slim chance bit your behind eventually.
and you just blew the fuse..
good news: it's a 23ct replacement you can likely do yourself.

'sid
 

charlie croker

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thanks for help guys.
is the fuse you refered to in the control box?
as you suggested I did connect the motor,then the batterys before plugging in the throttle
 

Functional Artist

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Hey Sid,

If you have time, could you explain/demonstrate, for us, how to change this fuse?

I didn't even know there was a fuse in there.

I thought they were sealed units.

Eager to know

...where it's located

...what it looks like

...how to change it
 

itsid

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thanks for help guys.
is the fuse you refered to in the control box?
as you suggested I did connect the motor,then the batterys before plugging in the throttle

if you have one it'll be inside of course.
that's why i asked you to call the seller for a replacement
or ask if you can open it to see what's wrong,
since a pic of it's inside would be very helpful,
it could not only show you what exactly popped (HOPEFULLY a fuse let's say)
it could also tell us if it's worth to be replaced
most parts are a penny and a half on digikey and can be swapped easily.

Hey Sid,

If you have time, could you explain/demonstrate, for us, how to change this fuse?
I didn't even know there was a fuse in there.
I thought they were sealed units.

Eager to know
...where it's located
...what it looks like
...how to change it

Well, I can't for more than one reason I'm afraid:
first.. indeed not all controllers have a fuse for some odd reason
(I gues cheap chinese means CHEAP chinese)
Second, I don't have any controller I could take apart for you.
For fun I checked the schematics of a YK31C (yiyun controller for my1020 motors)
and.. it didn't have any fuse whatsoever.. just a few voltage regulators, a voltage comparator (4way) and a few transistors
packed with some capacitors and resistors and that's all that's in that tiny silver box.
One (a 3 or maybe 5W resistor stands out being that big and all..)
I wouldn't be surprised if that's one of the first parts to fail tbh,
just because of it's rating ;)

Anyways, there are 15 and 5 Volt regulators
some voltage divider (for the comparator and the undervoltage protection circuit)
and a current limiter that feeds the PWM signal from the throttle.

frankly, nothing really that'd calls for failure in case the battery is connected w/o throttle.
maybe a charged cap from a previous installation attempt can trigger unwanted behaviour .. but I don't see how it could cause something to fail.. (there is no reverse polarity check however... so battery in reverse can fry a handfull of components indeed)

Anyways, I'd have a fuse in there since some parts cannot tolerate high currents (well most don't tbh)
but since thre's no processor of any kind, there might be nothing that calls for secure protection really.
*shrugs* maybe it needs a programmable controller to find a fuse.

fuses can be anything really, common is a glass tube (5x20 mm std size) directly soldered onto the PCB (likely shrink wrapped)
but they can be smaller (down to smd fuses that look like a cap just white not beige)
can sit in a fuse holder (if they are meant to be replaced) or as said soldered onto the pcb directly.

location is even worse.. there shouldn't be any "main power" fuse.. the amps are just too high for it to not just ask the enduser to install one inline with the battery himself, since it'll likely fail.

it's the controll circuits internally that IMHO need protection,
and based on the layout such fuse needs to be placed accordingly of course.

IF you insist I'll show you a few examples, but it's basically as telling as googling for "pcb fuse" I'm afraid ;)

'sid
 
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Functional Artist

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Thanks, for the detailed explanation :thumbsup:

I've had a few non-functional old controllers off Chinese scooters & razors apart, just for looks

mostly everything sealed up with a rubber like coating

didn't see any fuses
 
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