A way to extend the milage of your 'dead-axle' wheel bearings...

[Half-breeder]

Are you a 'dead-axle' driver? Do you find yourself replacing wheel bearings on a 'norm'? I came up w/ a 'possible' fix. Used alil physics, MacGyverism, n common sense to figure this out... wonder why the go cart company couldnt...

I was having problems w/ my dead-axle wheel bearings, wearing out rapidly(5-7 driving hrs), more so the inner bearing, drive side. I know I was using 'cheap' bearings, but had no 'local' dealer for the 'good' ones(internet shopping phobia)... so I decided to attempt to solve the 'issue' another way. I had noticed that the inner race(the rotating part that contacts the axle) was getting pushed in, to the point the back side would 'cone' outwards and leave the bearing housing to rub against the washer/axle step-up, which caused it to drag and eventually force a replacement to be installed. I placed a 1" washer into the wheel bearing housing, and ground out a hole large enough for the inner race to travel freely, but support the back of the bearing itself. By doin this I have extended the 'life' of the bearing considerably(10-12 drive hrs).
I 'did' have to realign my clutch w/ my drive sprocket again, but only by 3/16"(thickness of the washer).
I by NO means 'guarantee' results will be identical for yours. ALOT of factors, coincide w/ the wear n tear amounts...weight, size, conditions, temps, traction, tread, etc.

A way to extend the milage of your 'dead-axle' wheel bearings...

 

[firemanjim]

Maesure the distance between the both bearings inner race. Cut a piece of tube to fit between them inside the wheel. When you tighten axle nut, it should bottom out and no longer be able to tighten,but your tire should/will spin freely. Kart wheels normally have that tube in them for bearing support. Prevents undue stress by a non-stable bearing....

 

[jbrixen]

as jim stated there needs to be a spacer there. the bearings are not designed to carry a side load.

 

[firemanjim]

Yep, what he said..... side loads.....

 

[Scout]

I was just thinking, what about tapered roller bearings? Some small ones like in a motorcycle neck would be able to handle both rotational and axial loads.

 

[Half-breeder]

Maesure the distance between the both bearings inner race. Cut a piece of tube to fit between them inside the wheel. When you tighten axle nut, it should bottom out and no longer be able to tighten,but your tire should/will spin freely. Kart wheels normally have that tube in them for bearing support. Prevents undue stress by a non-stable bearing....

Actually "that" makes better sense, seeing as that the race(NOT the housing) is what rolls and supports... wonder 'if' BOTH were implemented/used....?.....'overkill'? or decent idea?
Those lips that are 'suppose' to secure the rear face of the bearing are a joke(bout 'maybe' an 1/8"). Doing so, would seem to me, would support 'side-loads' better I would think...?

Ill be doing the spacer tube for Priceline(seeing as that Lo-T is 'LIVE' now)... thanx for correcting my flaw in judgement...(still learning)

 

[OzFab]

(still learning)

Aren't we all?

 

[Half-breeder]

Aren't we all?

...lol speaking of which... you gonna install a hand brake to your winner kart?... probably something like bicycle hand brakes. Im thinking it may save your 'next' front-bumper ...

Drove Lo-T briefly today after getting her together... ... ... lets just say HUGE difference in dead n live axle. I can see 'how' what happened to you, happened... Im upgrading to a differential next dagnamit! straight live is scarey... also, I've gotta go higher ratio to spin her monster shoes now... hope that lil band brake is enough to stop her!

 

[OzFab]

...lol speaking of which... you gonna install a hand brake to your winner kart?... probably something like bicycle hand brakes. Im thinking it may save your 'next' front-bumper ...

lets just say HUGE difference in dead n live axle. I can see 'how' what happened to you, happened...

The difference is huge... My daughters kart was originally live axle*. I noticed a massive difference when I changed it to single spinner. All I can say is your steering needs a bit of work...

*Technically, it still has a live axle but, it only drives one wheel

 

[Half-breeder]

All I can say is your steering needs a bit of work...

yea..... been doin my homework on that. Fiddleing w/ Pricelines first... then will work on Lo-T's after I figure out the 'way' I plan on turning the spindles round n lining em up w/out being stepped on by myself or a passenger...

 

[OzFab]

Have a look at these two pages, paying close attention to the pitman arm:
http://macbobaust.com/mcf1.html
http://www.primetimehobbies.com/mcculloch/

These carts were raced very successfully back in the day. One of the reasons they were so successful was the steering; notice the pitman arm is a V shape & the tierods cross over, creating a 14° ackerman offset.

This vid shows a bit more:

 

[Half-breeder]

Drove round alil more today. Gonna free the passenger side lock to the wheel hub (1-wheel drive)till steering... Good or bad?

 

[danssoslow]

Have a look at these two pages, paying close attention to the pitman arm:
http://macbobaust.com/mcf1.html
http://www.primetimehobbies.com/mcculloch/

These carts were raced very successfully back in the day. One of the reasons they were so successful was the steering; notice the pitman arm is a V shape & the tierods cross over, creating a 14° ackerman offset.

This vid shows a bit more:

I understand how this point is found on the spindle itself; but not fully certain how it's converted with the Y shaped pitman arm. Tell me if I'm understanding this right, please?
So lets say in my similar situation being front steer, I'd have to move my tie rod mount point 3" out toward the tire (hypethetical number). Since this isn't possible, I move the mounting point the same 3" from the center of the pitman arm, on the opposite side of the pitman arm's center line? Is that all there is to it?

I apologize if the video explained this. I cannot watch photobucket videos from my phone.

 

[Half-breeder]

I understand how this point is found on the spindle itself; but not fully certain how it's converted with the Y shaped pitman arm. Tell me if I'm understanding this right, please?
So lets say in my similar situation being front steer, I'd have to move my tie rod mount point 3" out toward the tire (hypethetical number). Since this isn't possible, I move the mounting point the same 3" from the center of the pitman arm, on the opposite side of the pitman arm's center line? Is that all there is to it?

I apologize if the video explained this. I cannot watch photobucket videos from my phone.

.... from what Im understanding.... that's bout the jist of it.

 

[OzFab]

Yeah, what he said...

I haven't actually tried it but, I'm assuming that's how it would work...