A guy brought this by my garage

Status
Not open for further replies.

Lokis_Tyro

Changeless Madman
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Location
Wisconsin
I do not think Fabroman was meaning anything bad by what he said. Sometimes humour does not come over well on the internet

Welcome to the forum

I know he didn't mean anything bad. I didn't mean anything rude or mean-spirited by what I said either. It sucks not being able to give your tone of voice over the net.. It's hard for me to razz people back without sounding like a jerk... Reading it again it sounds kinda uppity. Ah well. What's done is done. I'm all good on my end, hopefully y'all are too.
:backtotopic:
 

Axx3d

New member
Messages
458
Reaction score
2
Location
MN
I'm uncertain as to why someone hasn't created a "Sarcasm font" for online and texting...
 

silforty

New member
Messages
27
Reaction score
1
Location
Dayton, Oh
I'd strip that frame, clean the obvious crud of it, then tap it all over with the shank of a heavy screwdriver. You can hear where the rust is about to come all the way through the metal (IF it is). The perimeter of any welded area will be most likely to fail. Clink, clink, clink, clunk, - clunk is bad. Push on it with the edge of the screwdriver and it may cave in. At that point, it's a good mailbox candidate, or a pattern for a new frame.

I plan on using a body hammer, one particular style has a pointed end. It is what I have always used when checking rust on automobiles. But I will keep your idea in mind, thanks.

Since those bolts are going to be very well rusted, if you attempt a restoration buy some ATF transmission fluid and some acetone and mix it with a 50/50 ratio. That will work better than any of the store bought penetrating oils like Kroil, liquid wrench, pb bplaster. Here's one test, but others can be found. Obviously it's nasty stuff, so gloves and a proper respirator are just common sense. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182271

Thanks for the tip.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top