800cc snowmobile go kart chain setup

[HenryM]

I am currently building a full irs gokart/crosskart. I am planning on using the engine from my 2002 ski doo mxz 800. I was planning on using #520 chain fromthe jackshaft to the axle. would this chain work with the 130-140hp this engine is making?

 

[Rat]

I am currently building a full irs gokart/crosskart. I am planning on using the engine from my 2002 ski doo mxz 800. I was planning on using #520 chain fromthe jackshaft to the axle. would this chain work with the 130-140hp this engine is making?

The size of the chain is less critical than it's overall design integrity and metallurgy.

A case and point of what I mean would be two seemingly identical chains (I have used both) of the same size but different brands, and tensile strengths.

The first would be a #415 "SRT" w/ 4100lb tensile

It's a decent cheapish chain and while its strong enough for most applications be it mini bike or a kart... it is very prone to link spreading (the plates slide outward on the pins)
Another feature flaw, or weakness I have found is the link plates are hardened to the extent they are a bit brittle so with enough bending force on a single link plate will snap it in half (90° bend ± 15°)

The second is the ProTaper PT415MX w/ 4945lbs tensile

It's not a particularly cheap chain. It does not wear easily or quickly. The links do not migrate on the pins simply because ProTaper uses more overhang to mushroom them bigger than other companies do. The links are not soft by any means nor are they hardened to the extent of becoming brittle. The PT415MX being a motocross chain is the size and weight equivalent of what lesser chains would be marketed as being HD. The only downside I can say a PT415MX has is that it can and does break all cheap chain breakers, and can even bust many chain more high end breakers without ever budging the pin. It is 100% my preferred chain, and will always be my #1 choice and recommendation of chains.

Tensile strengths are critical in a chain where tensile is specific to pullnstrain and stretch damage resistance... where structurally tensile is a useless rating system beyond nuts and bolts.

Focus on a chain with a tensile strength of no less than 4500lbs tensile.

 

[Darren]

Your local motorbike shop will be able to advise and probably have the chain in stock, I've used all sorts of chains and realised you get what you pay for.

 

[HenryM]

The size of the chain is less critical than it's overall design integrity and metallurgy.

A case and point of what I mean would be two seemingly identical chains (I have used both) of the same size but different brands, and tensile strengths.

The first would be a #415 "SRT" w/ 4100lb tensile

It's a decent cheapish chain and while its strong enough for most applications be it mini bike or a kart... it is very prone to link spreading (the plates slide outward on the pins)
Another feature flaw, or weakness I have found is the link plates are hardened to the extent they are a bit brittle so with enough bending force on a single link plate will snap it in half (90° bend ± 15°)

The second is the ProTaper PT415MX w/ 4945lbs tensile

It's not a particularly cheap chain. It does not wear easily or quickly. The links do not migrate on the pins simply because ProTaper uses more overhang to mushroom them bigger than other companies do. The links are not soft by any means nor are they hardened to the extent of becoming brittle. The PT415MX being a motocross chain is the size and weight equivalent of what lesser chains would be marketed as being HD. The only downside I can say a PT415MX has is that it can and does break all cheap chain breakers, and can even bust many chain more high end breakers without ever budging the pin. It is 100% my preferred chain, and will always be my #1 choice and recommendation of chains.

Tensile strengths are critical in a chain where tensile is specific to pullnstrain and stretch damage resistance... where structurally tensile is a useless rating system beyond nuts and bolts.

Focus on a chain with a tensile strength of no less than 4500lbs tensile.

Thank you, I just wanted to make sure i wasn't going to run into any problems with nonstop breaking of chains.

 

[Rat]

Your local motorbike shop will be able to advise and probably have the chain in stock, I've used all sorts of chains and realised you get what you pay for.

Professionally above their pay grade and insurance liabilities, for something so drastically custom. They won't tell you $HIT, nice try though.

Same reason a bike shop (bicycles) will typically deny service for anything you bring them the moment you even suggest you're thinking about one of those janky Chinese bike motors.

 

[Darren]

I disagree, my local Motorbike shop have been going 40+ years, they have experienced mechanics that are passionate about all sorts of motorbikes, including drag and superbikes. You've just got 'Sh@*ty' shops near you.

 

[Rat]

I disagree, my local Motorbike shop have been going 40+ years, they have experienced mechanics that are passionate about all sorts of motorbikes, including drag and superbikes. You've just got 'Sh@*ty' shops near you.

Well first off, I don't mess with shops in the first place... If I can fix it myself, odds are no one can. I may beat my head on a brickwall for a bit... but I ALWAYS figure it out. When I ask for thoughts on here, it's not that I NEED the input but rather I need a sounding board to confirm my own suspicions or to see if I overlooked a more likely possibility.

So yeah as far as I am concerned ALL shops are Ṣhitty, price gouging, clock milking fuqoffs. Let's also go ahead and add to that the fact that nearest one is like 30mi away as well.

You're talking about shops that don't play by the insurance guidelines, most I've ever dealt with will not risk their coverage for a "Custom" liability and I don't mean backyard BS builds that retain a DMV registerable VIN from whatever they were cut and welded from.