77 Flathead 130212 Throttle linkage with Governor

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o2jmpr

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Hi all!

I'd like to use your knowledge please. I recently purchased a 1977 flathead model 130212 and would like to keep the governor along with the top Choke/run/stop controls (This is a Choke a matic carb) but also have remote throttle for my minibike.

I'm not sure how to accomplish this. It seems the controls for the choke a matic run to the governor plate under the tank but that's also the place I want to hook up remote throttle with a return spring. If I were to do that though, the return spring would kill the engine and going WOT would choke the engine. Are there any alternatives to keeping the governor and using remote throttle?


I guess I could always rig a separate kill switch and choke off the carb's slide pull it just wouldn't be quite as nice and convenient. What say you?

THANKS!
 

mckutzy

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Can you post some pics of this motor and bike???
This'll help on better assessing what to do...
 

itsid

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No worries..

the Briggs carb has a cable retention groove for the remote throttle cable..

use a bolt and a washer (in case you don't have the retaining clip already on there)
at the left red arrow in the below diagram to clamp down the sleeve

then thread the throttle cable throug the hole at the right arrow.
lock in place and you'll be set

[EDIT]
added second pic with remote throttle cable in place

'sid
 

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o2jmpr

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Ok, Thank you for posting that! I've seen that set up in several pics but my question is how would the governor be able to function if I'm holding the throttle cable statically? if the Governor wants to kick in, it will stretch the spring which would normally close the throttle down but it can't overcome my force against the thottle cable on the opposite side. Does that make sense? :)
 

itsid

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If that carb is anything like mine (13202 with pulsajet but w/o choke-a-matic) that is NOT the butterfly lever!

that's the control lever only..
it sets the governor which in turn sets the butterfly, by means of some nasty small pushrods tucked away hard to reach just behind the tank...
the butterfly "lever" is actually mostly round on top of the carb body just behind the intake bore

'sid
 

o2jmpr

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Yup, you're correct. It is a control arm and not the butterfly but the same principle still applies. It's just a lever with linkages and springs. What I mean is that my wrist strength to hold the throttle in position where I want it is much stronger than the little springs on the governor side of the control arm. There's no way the governor would still be functioning properly because my wrist and the governor are attached to the same point.

Maybe I'm still missing something, but anyway, thanks a bunch for the replies! Let me just reassemble my engine and fiddle with it once I can see everything working in unison and I'm sure that wee, tiny, (dim) lightbulb in my head will go off! Cheers.
 
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itsid

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You misunderstand.. that spring is the return spring,
ONLY to retract the lever once the (lever or throttle cable) tension is released.

it has nothing to do with what the governor sets the engine speed at
(well it takes that lever's position as a suggestion but nothing else)
the governor sets the butterfly, and ONLY the butterfly..
(i.e. the governor doesn't even try to set that input lever to a different position)

'sid
 

o2jmpr

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You're correct again, thank you. I did not see that as the return spring. My carb doesn't look exactly like that one but very close. Makes sense now. The point is...... don't connect direct to the butterfly if using the governor, let it do that work and find any other place where there's throttle linkages to attach a cable and return spring.

This engine has been such a fun project. It taught me a lot and tinkering in the garage is therapeutic. Thanks again for the info and help.
 
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