6.5 clone gov removed

[turbozetec]

Let me start by saying what a pain the the @#%! took me hours the cover was hard to get off the cam came out the push rods fell out. I wish i would have left it alone. Now it dont want to idle i have tried to adjust it but dont seem to help any because when it starts to smooth out then the clutch starts grabbing. It ran perfact before and started first pull now it takes multiple pulls. It did give it a little more power but not as much as i would have liked hopefully when i get my header in it will make a difference.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Sorry you had so much trouble. It seems so easy to me- practise, I guess.

It should start every bit as easily as before, but remember- you no longer have the governor holding the throttle open at start-up, so YOU have to do it. Hold it partway by hand, and start away.

As for the lousy idle- It goes without saying that you have to ensure you put everything together correctly. Did you torque the flywheel nut back to spec? If it was a bit loose, the timing key could have sheared, throwing the timing out. Make doubly sure that you put the carb gaskets and isolator back together, and in the correct order and orientation. If one of the gaskets is not right, it can block the vent port. Make sure the gaskets are undamaged and not leaking, and the carb bolts are tight.

Regarding power- Removeing the governor does NOT give you more power, and don't let anybody tell you it does. All it does is increase the maximum RPM you can attain.

 

[hardrock21]

Sorry you had so much trouble. It seems so easy to me- practise, I guess.

It should start every bit as easily as before, but remember- you no longer have the governor holding the throttle open at start-up, so YOU have to do it. Hold it partway by hand, and start away.

As for the lousy idle- It goes without saying that you have to ensure you put everything together correctly. Did you torque the flywheel nut back to spec? If it was a bit loose, the timing key could have sheared, throwing the timing out. Make doubly sure that you put the carb gaskets and isolator back together, and in the correct order and orientation. If one of the gaskets is not right, it can block the vent port. Make sure the gaskets are undamaged and not leaking, and the carb bolts are tight.

Regarding power- Removeing the governor does NOT give you more power, and don't let anybody tell you it does. All it does is increase the maximum RPM you can attain.

But do these engines build more power with more rpm? I'd be interested to know where the peak torque/HP sits in the power curve on these.

Paul

 

[turbozetec]

Im thinking id be better off getting a predator 420. I do mostly riding on hills and im not sure i can build a 6.5 clone to have the tq i need.

 

[landuse]

Im thinking id be better off getting a predator 420. I do mostly riding on hills and im not sure i can build a 6.5 clone to have the tq i need.

A 420 would definately be better that a 6.5HP, but you can keep the 6.5 and still get some decent torque out of it. Gearing also plays a large part

 

[Doc Sprocket]

But do these engines build more power with more rpm? I'd be interested to know where the peak torque/HP sits in the power curve on these.

Paul

Published specs for the majority of these little industrial engines are generally about the same as far as the curves go. Torque peaks around 2500RPM. The HP curve would appear to still be rising slightly at 3600RPM, but of course they don't show the curve past that point. One could extrapolate the curve past 3600 and probably safely assume it is a bit higher, but it's not something thats going to really appear on the "butt dyno". I made the comment about "no power increase" simply because I don't want folks thinking that removing the governor is going to turn their kart into a tire-fryer- it won't. But with decent gearing, it will attain a higher top speed.

 

[turbozetec]

I did see a article on dyno results on 4 different 6.5 clones and they peek hp around 4500-4700 at around 8.5hp. I cant go any larger on my axle gear with out ground clearance issues I do most of my riding in the woods and it a large field, no if I could find an 8 tooth jack shaft sprocket I would defiantly go that way. My though process was that the gov was holding the kart back going up the hills relying on the Torque Converter to increase speed and If I took the gov off the rpms would climb as well as the TC doing its job, Which that worked but all I am saying is with all the trouble removing it caused it wasnt worth doing. Maybe ill see a larger gain once I get the header, air filter, and carb Jet in. But I dont want to make that investment until I get it running right again.

Does anybody know if somebody makes an 8 tooth sprocket?

 

[landuse]

Have a look at these

Azusa #35,#40 and 520sprocket diameters
http://www.azusaeng.com/Sprockets/AzSDno35.pdf
http://www.azusaeng.com/Sprockets/AzSDno40.pdf
http://www.azusaeng.com/Sprockets/AzSDno50.pdf

I am not too sure what pitch chain you are using, but you might be hard pressed to find a 8 tooth sprocket

 

[turbozetec]

how do I find out what pitch the chain is? Its a 5/8 jack shaft.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

While horsepower may peak well above 3600RPM, it really doesn't matter. Torque is dropping rapidly at that point, and it's torque that's gonna get you up that hill. Since the main point of removing the governor is to increase the available rpm range, then the thing to do in your case is to lower your gear ratio. By doing so, you will lose the top speed potential increase, BUT you will be increasing the available rear wheel torque. With all other things being equal, speed and torque (as measured at the rear wheel) are inversely proportional. As you divide speed, you multiply torque.

After the flow mods and subsequent mixture adjustment, you will see some gains. What I do NOT know, is what we are dealing with here. How big and heavy is the kart, how heavy are you, how large are the tires, and are your expectations actually reasonable given these variables. You may need a big block in order to do what you want.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

To measure chain pitch, measure from center of one link's roller pin, to the next one. 3/8"=#35, 1/2"=#40/41, 5/8"=#50

 

[turbozetec]

Its a vortex with 18in wheels 2 seater and is on the heaver side.

 

[turbozetec]

Its a 9 tooth upper and a 60 lower I believe

 

[turbozetec]

Well after a hr of riding today i got frustrated and tore it back appart to make sure the cam and cranks timing marks are aligned and they where. It runs like crap now and wont idle i tore the carb appart and cleaned it hopefully it helps because i dont know what else can be wrong. I wouldnt have dreamed that just removing the gov would have made it run like crap.

 

[tundrabeagle3]

try turning in the idle screw

 

[turbozetec]

I have and it dont help the point where it finally idles is the point where the clutch is engaging and it startsto move

 

[Doc Sprocket]

I wouldnt have dreamed that just removing the gov would have made it run like crap.

It won't.

 

[turbozetec]

Well put it back together and cleaned the carb and it runs great and idles i guess when i pulled the gov off i must have knocked dirt down the carb. Thanks toystory for helping me out

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Anytime- glad you're sorted out!

 

[turbozetec]

Well i put on the 8tooth sprocket today and it has good power for the hills but now i think the driven pulley opens up going up hill so it reaches a point where it stops accelerating so tomorrow ill tare it down and move the spring to the 3rd setting. Then i think it should be spot on.