5hp tiller engine

[BaconBitRacing]

not only measuring cleaning after you get the rod out of the box. Arc rods have a heavy amount of metal and just gunk leftover from the machining process. I should of taken a picture of the rag. a nice pile of metal flake. the rod bolts had TONS of big shavings that we’re stuck to the threads. not sure if that would affect the way they torque down but it couldn’t be good. gunk In between the serrations of the rod/cap. And twisting The rod bolts in a rag a ton of grime was left over.

I betcha a lot of cranks and rods have been ruined by that and careless building.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Actually I’m kind of worried. the amount of gunk and shavings that I cleaned was after I plasti gauged. I really really hope that doesn’t affect torque to substantially. it mic’s closer but slightly bigger then .003 so that’s at least good. if anything it will only pull it slightly even closer to that 2 1/2 thousands oil clearance.

 

[Thepartsguy]

I betcha a lot of cranks and rods have been ruined by that and careless building.

the rods are top tier. And I understand that It’s a machined press fit part. 100% honest once they are machined and shipped they are shiny but absolutely need a good amount of time and attention to finish up. it’s just all the metal burrs even off the side of the rod in the engine during break in Couldn’t be good. and the rod bolts especially need a ton of cleaning. they are gritty as a rusty bolt twisting in if you don’t clean them. butter smooth if you do clean them.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

the rods are top tier. And I understand that It’s a machined press fit part. 100% honest once they are machined and shipped they are shiny but absolutely need a good amount of time and attention to finish up. it’s just all the metal burrs even off the side of the rod in the engine during break in Couldn’t be good. and the rod bolts especially need a ton of cleaning. they are gritty as a rusty bolt twisting in if you don’t clean them. butter smooth if you do clean them.

Eww on the bolts not cleaned. Having just removed rusty nuts and bolts from my karts wheels, that is not a nice feeling. But the rod is so shiny! That engine looks incredible, with the billet head and rod and flywheel and shiny block… Amazing!

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Everything was cleaned and torqued then installed. I put the side case on and had to test a few different gaskets to get the right crank end play while torquing down the side cover. View attachment 137227

I agree. Crank and cam endplay is 1 of the 1st things I do on these small engines. On the crank, too loose will eat the sides of the rod, causing excessive heat, drag and will fatigue the rod. Too tight will overheat the bearings, again heat, drag, and possible leaky oil seals.
Cam walk will wear out the lifter bores, and cause the valve timing events to be all over the place. Too tight causes oil clearance issues heat and drag.

Jus my 2 cents worth.

@Thepartsguy , good job on your build.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Ok but there has to be some end play right? I picked this engine up and can hear the cam click back and fourth but it’s not exsessive. along with the crank end play. I have always just ran briggs engines never really built them. so I tried to set the end play just a but more snug then all the running engines I have around. there is one thinner gasket I have and if I use that when I torque the sidecover I feel like there is just not enough wiggle back and forth.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Im not sure on the briggs flatheads, I grew playing with em, but never blue printed 1.
On the honda/clone/preds, I like to see .010", crank and cam. They have to have some, for oil to get up in there. I've seen some come in that you could barely turn the crank, then some come with .060" end play. Dummies not realizing there was 2 side cover gaskets installed.

I wished i had a better answer for you.

Ok but there has to be some end play right? I picked this engine up and can hear the cam click back and fourth but it’s not exsessive. along with the crank end play. I have always just ran briggs engines never really built them. so I tried to set the end play just a but more snug then all the running engines I have around. there is one thinner gasket I have and if I use that when I torque the sidecover I feel like there is just not enough wiggle back and forth. View attachment 137239

 

[BrownStainRacing]

@Thepartsguy
I'm sure they made crank and cam shims. Like they do for the clones.
I mean they have been racing, building that 5hp flatty for as long as I can remember.

 

[Thepartsguy]

@Thepartsguy
I'm sure they made crank and cam shims. Like they do for the clones.
I mean they have been racing, building that 5hp flatty for as long as I can remember.

I‘m gonna roll with it. it’s not what I think would be excessive. spins over freely.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

I‘m gonna roll with it. it’s not what I think would be excessive. spins over freely.

I say you are right. And besides, to check the cam, you gotta pull it back down to the bare block again. Using the crank hole in side cover to check cam end play. You probably ready to fire it up now.

 

[Thepartsguy]

I say you are right. And besides, to check the cam, you gotta pull it back down to the bare block again. Using the crank hole in side cover to check cam end play. You probably ready to fire it up now.

Almost ready. I’m kind of torn on the gastank as it isn’t painted. and I found a big piece of tubing and a fitting to make a nice big header for this thing. I’m gonna see if my buddy will take it and make a loop header.

 

[Thepartsguy]

train horn header?

 

[BaconBitRacing]

train horn header?View attachment 137267View attachment 137268

Heck yeah! Second only to the loop pipe, the best part about loops is they used to race ‘em, specifically on the dirt.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Heck yeah! Second only to the loop pipe, the best part about loops is they used to race ‘em, specifically on the dirt.

I have a flush broken off exhaust stud. So a screw in exhaust is about my only option. not possible to screw on any threaded exhausts except straight ones with the tank/carb bolted on. I want a loop pipe but $40 on eBay and drilling out that bolt isn’t worth it.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

I have a flush broken off exhaust stud. So a screw in exhaust is about my only option. not possible to screw on any threaded exhausts except straight ones with the tank/carb bolted on. I want a loop pipe but $40 on eBay and drilling out that bolt isn’t worth it.

Oh, I didn’t know about that broken bolt, trumpet exhaust all the way.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

train horn header?View attachment 137267View attachment 137268

That reminds me of the hearing aids, ear pieces, they used back in the revolutionary war days.

I don't think anybody is gonna have a problem hearing this thang when it's coming down the road.

 

[Denny]

Trumpet exhausts don’t work. Even at low speeds they will suck the incoming charge of fuel and air out the exhaust. Just ask Tom Hoover and the rest of the Ramchargers. They discovered that when they were running the 49 Plymouth in the early 60s. Incase you don’t remember who they are, they designed a little engine called the 426 Hemi in the 60s for Chrysler.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Trumpet exhausts don’t work. Even at low speeds they will suck the incoming charge of fuel and air out the exhaust. Just ask Tom Hoover and the rest of the Ramchargers. They discovered that when they were running the 49 Plymouth in the early 60s. Incase you don’t remember who they are, they designed a little engine called the 426 Hemi in the 60s for Chrysler.

If you don’t know who the Ramchargers are you need to go back to car history class.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

train horn header?View attachment 137267View attachment 137268

I say, put 'er on there and see if she can carry a tune for ya.

 

[Thepartsguy]