5hp briggs cashaft mod

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ward34

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has anyone ever thought of useing jb weld on the lobes of the cam to make higher lifts and more duration :idea2:
 

Doc Sprocket

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Sounds like a really neat way to-

-guarantee your next teardown will be soon!

I can't see the epoxy holding up, and you really would need to have it professionally machined. Since you're already spending the money on machining, well- you get the idea.
 

devino246

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By the time you have the machining done, you could have bought an aftermarket cam for cheaper.
 

fowler

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on this topic a more perminant but still dodgy method

weld hard faceing to the cam and grind it back

measuse the cam height before the welding and add however much u want on then grind and buff the unwanted matierial away

real redneck engine mod but....
i know russ will hate mefor even thinking it
 

ward34

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well thanks to all i guess im going to look for a used cam and rod any one got some?
 

oscaryu1

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I'm embarrassed to say that when I was 12 years old I DID try this lol. The JB weld actually didn't come off... even after a few manual rotations of the motor. I had so much JB Lift (lol) that the valves started hitting the head and began getting coil bind.

Me and Tyler (moderator) have also played around with ghetto grinder-ground cams after welding some extra material onto the lobes.
 

JHen

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I wouldn't call it ghetto. You should look into Burt Munroe. He made one of the world's fastest motorcycles ever with nothing but hand tools. He profiled cams by hand with a file.
 

slideways

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You're actually looking to remove material from the round side and leave it/smooth the transition on the lobe side to add lift. That's how most cams are made (at least the cheap hot rod ones). They make them from stock blanks and just remove from the base circle so that when it does lift the stock amount of lift is now higher.

You'll never get it right by hand... especially trying to do it to both lobes. Guys used to cheat in kids class karts by grinding down the ramp of the cam lobe to make it slam open and shut to gain just a little more lift using the spring bouncing open. Its tough on the valvetrain though.
 

Doc Sprocket

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You're actually looking to remove material from the round side and leave it/smooth the transition on the lobe side to add lift. That's how most cams are made (at least the cheap hot rod ones). They make them from stock blanks and just remove from the base circle so that when it does lift the stock amount of lift is now higher.

Ahh, interesting- I get it! Tricky!

grinding down the ramp of the cam lobe to make it slam open and shut to gain just a little more lift using the spring bouncing open. Its tough on the valvetrain though.

Sounds pretty violent- I can't see such a valve train lasting very long at all!
 
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