5.5 Briggs Help

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Duct-Tape

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Hello! Duct-Tape here... First post:) Anyways...

My dad just got a "broken" 5.5 briggs OHV (2006 model I think) from his work. I decided I would use this motor for a future project, so started tearing it apart. My dad herd that the connecting rod was broken. I pulled the pull start and nothing would move...so I began taking it apart...

I took off the crank case and fly wheel, took out the crank shaft, and looked at the connecting rod and it looks fine to me. I cant see any cracks, and i can even pull the piston up and down by hand (with a fair amount of force though) and it seems to be fine.
I put back in the crank shaft and tried to move it by the shaft, and nothing... It wouldn't even budge when lightly tapped with a hammer! So i am wondering how I would fix this problem...I haven't had too much time to look around myself; so hopefully someone on this forum knows what to do:thumbsup:

Sorry if i typed a lot, and let me know if you need any pictures or anything.

- Duct-Tape
 

sayre315

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pics would be great

but maybe its your recoil

when you said it wouldnt budge when you tapped it with a hamme, what did you tap?
 

Duct-Tape

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Ok, here is a picture of the part of the crank shaft i tryed tapping down (sorry i am kind of new with engines and am not sure what all the parts on the crankshaft are called lol)




I just took a block of wood and tapped the block so i wouldnt harm anything.

I also noticed that when i loosened the bolts (just a little bit) holding on the piston pin (i think?) i could move it some what. I only had the bolts tightened somewhat hard with a ratchet-not nearly close to the proper torque though.

Where/what are the rod bearings? And yeah my piston doesnt move very easily.

Duct-Tape
 

Duct-Tape

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My dad just got home and said that the engine ran out of oil, and thats how it "broke". So i just need to get my crank sanded and get a new connecting rod, and my briggs should be good as new :cheers2:

Thanks for all the help above though!!

Duct-Tape
 

sayre315

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before you go out and buy a bunch of stuff

take off the cylnder head, use a wood block and hammer
and hit the top of the piston

but usally if you run on no oil then the conecting rod will go bad

if your thinking about modifiying this engine i would buy a ARC billet connecting rod for about($50) and an ARC billet aluminum flywheel($100) and take off the govener
 

Duct-Tape

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Hmm that is defiantly something to consider...

Lets say i have a 115 pound person (me) riding on a maybe 30-40 pound bike without the governor removed, or arc parts. I'd imagine i could go around 25-30 mph right? How fast do you think i could reach if i did add these parts?
 

oscaryu1

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if your thinking about modifiying this engine i would buy a ARC billet connecting rod for about($50) and an ARC billet aluminum flywheel($100) and take off the govener

This ain't a Clone. Prices will be different. I'm not even sure if ARC makes rods and flywheels for these.

Check cylinder bore before doing anything.

+1. No use dumping all that $$$ and then finding out you have a badly scratched bore.
 

Duct-Tape

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Ok here is some pictures of the piston cylinder and cylinder head...Man this guy didnt know how to take care of his engine:furious2:

Top of the piston...



Top of the piston again...



Cylinder...



Cylinder again...



Cylinder head...



And if this is fixable I will order the stock connecting rod-at least for the time being.
 

Kenny_McCormic

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Dont look too bad to me, I have run MUCH worse. Lube the piston up, put it together, fill it with oil and give it a crank.

Engines that seize due to lack of oil make really good boat anchors.

Not really, when i got my cart the idiot before me ran it without oil till it seized, 1/4can of pb blaster down the plug hole, wait 12hrs, ratchet on the crank popped it free. Filled it up with 20-50 and she fired up on pull #3! The more i run it the less oil it burns.
 

sayre315

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on the piston
soak it in kerosene
and you could probebly reach 30mph with the govener still on
on the cylnder head take a wire brush and some kerosene to it



oh hey
you all know how i sold the lawn boy?

well he said "it wouldnt stay running" and aslo he said that he would give me his old mower that all it needs is "another pin that hold the blade on" so i was thinking it was the flywheel key
because his wife said he's not very machanicly inclined
but he just brought back the 2 mowers
and he had left my lawn boy in the rain(stupid guy!!:mad2:) and the little 4hp murry mower he gave me had a broken rod!!! :furious2:
 

Duct-Tape

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Well my dads work said a new crank, rod, and piston would cost around $80 with his discount, and they could hone out the cylinder for me:wai:

Im gonna sit down with my crank and try to polish up where the connecting rod attaches and see if I cant use it at all...I think I can get this engine workin :bannana:
 

oscaryu1

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Cylinder doesn't look bad at all. I had a cylinder (2HP) in which it was ran for 25 minutes with all the rings upside down. New rings, 1 minute hone, and it started on the 2nd pull.

I'd just put it back together (after cleaning the head and piston o' course), and see if it'll run. It should work no problem.
 

Jerryburger

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I agree with Russ, don't get rid of it though, but don't dump $$$ into it if you don't have to. When you get it running again, you'll have a sense of accomplishment of bringing something back from the dead. It my burn a bit of oil or not put out full power, but it was free! That, with the experience, and you're already ahead!
 
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