48V 20 A battery in parallel?

Duke878

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I got this on amazon and the capacity is definitely lower than 20A.. If I get another one and hook it up in parallel to the current one, will that be safe and advisable?


Thanks!
 

Evanguy

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it would be fine as long as they are the same voltage, (i know they are both 48v) but if you find one battery is 52v full an the other is 50v full you will cause the higher voltage to drop to the lower one, ideally they read within .5v when fully charged to work to their fullest capabilities.

in one of the electric Gators at work we have 2x 100ah 48v batteries in parallel making 200ah capacity at 48v they both read 53 and 53.3 when full so that's close enough
 

Rat

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Standby Voltage is very commonly 1.5-5.5v higher than the working voltage, this is why a fully charged car battery often reads 13.5, with a 14.5v minimum expectancy to charge and run what needs ran during normal operation, realistically the alternator is probably outputting closer to 18v when you consider the current draw of everything functioning after start up.

3 VERY Simple Rules when using a pair (or more) of batteries in a serial or parallel configuration;

1. Same capacity
2. Same Brand
3. Same Age

Serial doubles voltage (12v/12ah × 2s= 24v/12ah)

Parallel doubles Amp capacity (12v/12ah × 2p= 12v 24ah)

Parallel Series doubles all (12v 12ah x2s[12v 12ah ×2p] =24v 24ah)

Using mismatched batteries (eg. 12v 6ah and 12v 12ah) the larger battery will likely never charge to full capacity, and the smaller will likely overcharge.

Different brands use different materials (this goes beyond SLA/AGM, SLA gel, LiOn, LiPo, etc) and this composition mismatching can cause premature failures, overloads, and other issues best avoided.

Batteries of different ages are a problem even if one has only been used for a couple months (exclusion applies to batteries gotten but temporarily stored unused) because everytime you charge a battery you shorten it's life a nominal amount.

Pairing an aged battery to new is going to be a parasitic drain on the new battery and cause it to age prematurely.
The charge on a battery seeks to equalize its capacity with any others connected to it.

Like in a multicell drill battery (let's say 3s/3p connected 18650 because its a common 3.5v 3000mah cell) for example, it only takes one completely fried cell to make the whole pack not accept or hold a charge because that one cell being bad robs the others of their charge... but since it can no longer contain the charge its siphoning off it drains the whole thing and it seems that the whole pack is shot (it usually isn't)
 
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Duke878

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Standby Voltage is very commonly 1.5-5.5v higher than the working voltage, this is why a fully charged car battery often reads 13.5, with a 14.5v minimum expectancy to charge and run what needs ran during normal operation, realistically the alternator is probably outputting closer to 18v when you consider the current draw of everything functioning after start up.

3 VERY Simple Rules when using a pair (or more) of batteries in a serial or parallel configuration;

1. Same capacity
2. Same Brand
3. Same Age

Serial doubles voltage (12v/12ah × 2s= 24v/12ah)

Parallel doubles Amp capacity (12v/12ah × 2p= 12v 24ah)

Parallel Series doubles all (12v 12ah x2s[12v 12ah ×2p] =24v 24ah)

Using mismatched batteries (eg. 12v 6ah and 12v 12ah) the larger battery will likely never charge to full capacity, and the smaller will likely overcharge.

Different brands use different materials (this goes beyond SLA/AGM, SLA gel, LiOn, LiPo, etc) and this composition mismatching can cause premature failures, overloads, and other issues best avoided.

Batteries of different ages are a problem even if one has only been used for a couple months (exclusion applies to batteries gotten but temporarily stored unused) because everytime you charge a battery you shorten it's life a nominal amount.

Pairing an aged battery to new is going to be a parasitic drain on the new battery and cause it to age prematurely.
The charge on a battery seeks to equalize its capacity with any others connected to it.

Like in a multicell drill battery (let's say 3s/3p connected 18650 because its a common 3.5v 3000mah cell) for example, it only takes one completely fried cell to make the whole pack not accept or hold a charge because that one cell being bad robs the others of their charge... but since it can no longer contain the charge its siphoning off it drains the whole thing and it seems that the whole pack is shot (it usually isn't)
thanks for all this info! Definitely something to consider!
 
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