40 series belt removal. dumb question

[Whitetrashrocker]

With out having to losen the engine and JS plate, how do you guys remove the belt?

Say for driver maintenance. Which is alot for me, gets full of dirt.

I can't just remove the driver and slip it out of the belt, and fighting the driven to stay open and drop the belt inside is a real pain.

Anyone have a good trick?

 

[karl]

Good point, I have not personally run a 40 series, but I might soon. Id like to know.

 

[PullHorse]

I've had to do this many times in the last week and I took the driver off every time. If you have the right belt I don't see how you can do it otherwise.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Pull horse.
When I remove the driver bolt and try to just pull it off the PTO shaft. the belt doesn't have enough slack in it to fully remove the driver off the shaft.

If I could get the driven to fully open and stay open there might be enough belt slack.


Now I must add that I modified my driven. A 40 series only has one hole for the spring to go in and preload against.
A 30 series has 3 holes. you can choose the tention
I drilled a hole 45° off of the stock to add more preload.
This helps keep the CVT in a lower ratio longer.


I get rocks through the CVT and I have to clean out the dirt and relube the weights and give the sheaves a quick polish.
Don't seem to see much of this on the driven though. Odd.

 

[anickode]

Block the wheels and manually crank open the secondary. Use that slack to take it off the primary.

PS it's the same way on ALL CVTs from the TAV2 to the biggest baddest snowmobile or side by side you can think of.