3D Motorsports Manual (centrifugal) Clutch?

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Griff

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So I guess my question is aimed at people who have used or own the 3D Motorsports Manual Clutch..

How do you like it? Anything that's not public knowledge that potential builders should be aware about?

I mean I get the idea. It's essentially a baby dry clutch in centrifugal form, or even like a stall clutch with manual operation. It handles (as I understand) pretty heavy use of a variety of horsepower.

But if someone does use this, it voids potential w/ a TC.
Showing my ignorance, but as far as TC vs. JS; TC win every time right? Cause it converts Torque into Speed, yes? Whereas a Jackshaft gear reduces the torque and pressure on your motor and sprockets (I think).

Just a little insight would be nice.. stopping here cause I will ramble. :horse: lol
 

mckutzy

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A jackshaft does none of the sort... No reduction but redirection of the force required. An example my bike(not all pics are fully uploaded due to Photobucket crapout...) I have it for right side drive, also breaks down the length of the chain, and of course allows for the gear ratio.

As for the clutch, if one was so inclined it could be coupled inline with a TC or a cent clutch, provided a suitable lay shaft was present, but that can cause complications with excess..

This model has a better heat mitigation with plates than the cone(I have one of the mk1 clutches, didnt find any heat problems, but it was finicky to use...).
 

itsid

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I mean I get the idea. It's essentially a baby dry clutch in centrifugal form....

uhhhm NOPE, it's not baby it's not just essentially, it IS a dry clutch (just as any racing dry clutch like the horstman (I think even the plates are the same size really)
And no, UNLIKE the horstman it's NOT centrifugal by any means.

it might look like a cent cluch for an untrained eye, but that's about all.

Anyways, the TC comes with it's own clutch..
or lets rephrase that..
a torque converter has an idle stage below a certain rpm with no power transfer.

the benefits of the manual clutch are that you can engage at any rpm you like and are not restricted to the rpms the cent clutch dictates,
and while you can adjust the engagement speed of a cent clutch by changing weights and/or springs...
you can also feather the manual clutch (you shouldn't for too long.. it's still a dry clutch ;))
or you can slam it as you desire. (which you cannot with a cent clutch)

Frankly, the design is sound, the quality for all I know is good;
if one has an issue with it, it's likely either an installation or usage issue more than an issue with the clutch itself.

I doubt it'd be easy to install it with a torque converter in series tbh.
makes barely any sense in low rpm (the tc will still idle)
and at high rpms the TC will jump really badly and that might cause some belt issues...
but well.. whoever wants to try it is certainly welcome to post his findings ;)

a Torque converter does NOT convert torque to speed;
in fact it does the opposite most of the time.
(converts the speed potential a high gear ratio has back into the necessary torque the high gear ratio lacks when needed)

a jackshaft as mckutzy already explained is only rerouting the chain, and while you can composite gear with a jackshaft
(to say lower the rear axle sprockets diameter)
that's not it's only purpose although a quite common use case ;)
it's still a single gear ratio,
as a simple cent clutch or the manual clutch will have as well.. one gear ratio all the time.
a jackshaft will NEVER reduce torque either,
(well you could.. but there's no point whatsoever, you could simply install a smaller sprocket on the axle to do the same)
in fact it's also needed at times to INCREASE the torque to make the kart move (like if the needed axle sprocket would be bigger than the rear wheels)

the TC on the other hand changes that gear ratio according to the current load within it's capabilities (roughly 2:1 to 1:1)
so you have about twice the torque your fixed ratio provides when needed.
and it too requires a jackshaft (for the driven pulley and sprocket to ride on)

IDK what you are trying to achieve in the end, but I think from your question and misconceptions it's fair to assume that a simple TC is more likely going to fit your needs ;)

'sid
 

Hellion

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Egad, Oprah fan. Thanks for making the testosterone in here take a nose dive.


We need some clutch dumping and barking tires...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p-yoAajj7k

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBxhAfgWqfA

I think these are ideal for drag racing and hole shots...
 

Joe-405

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Buy something else. I've had one.


And actually the opposite hellion. No slip means it's all on or all off so my torque converter will win every time and I'm willing to put money on it every time.
 

anickode

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Buy something else. I've had one.


And actually the opposite hellion. No slip means it's all on or all off so my torque converter will win every time and I'm willing to put money on it every time.

You can't feather it like an automotive clutch? Or will it just cook?
 

Joe-405

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The one I had was on or off. Nothing in between at all. Mine also had the extra added heavier springs for more hp also. I sold the engine and clutch. And I can tell you it's been sold a few more times since then and the current owner has put the manual clutch in a corner and forgotten about it and went with a bully racing adjustable clutch.

So from talking with others that tried it on minibikes. They also have went back with a jr dragster torque converter setup or a bully style clutch also.
 

Hellion

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Tell us more about these torque converters, the Jr dragster type too, if that is indeed a separate thing. I'm not being flip, I really want some info because my feeling and the opinion of many is that the common TAV/TC is just one of many compromises albeit not a very good one.
In other words it's good for variable surfaces off-road but not optimal for acceleration and top-end speed.

I would have asked the same thing as anickode--I thought one would be able to feather it like an automotive clutch. No dice huh?
 
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