3 lug to 4 lug adapter?

[colinmergens]

My son and I recently got an old rusty frame and wheels and we want to build him a kart for as cheap as possible. We've got no big expectations, just trying to get something running.
I also have zero experience and knowledge, aside from the reading, and youtube videos I've been getting into over a week or so.
I know now that the axle is 'dead' (and 5/8") and the wheels we got are racing. They've got 3 bolt holes.
So, a few questions:
1. Can I use something like this from BMI karts (https://www.bmikarts.com/Colored-Aluminum-Racing-Wheel-Hub-Front-with-58-Bearings_p_1632.html) for the 2 front wheels and 1 back right wheel?


2. Is there some adapter I can use for the drivewheel that will allow it to have the sprocket and brakes bolted on? Would this work?



3. If this is not possible for the drivewheel, and I need to buy a new wheel setup that has a double flange hub with 4 bolt holes, is there a tire/wheel setup that would look similar to the other three?
4. Or, is it not recommended that I use those tires/wheels at all (because the intention is that the kart will be driven on the street and probably dirt/rock offroad), and if I need to buy new wheels, are hubs necessary for the 2 front and 1 back right wheel? Or are hubs only required if the wheel opening diameter is wider than the axle and I need to make up the difference so it fits the axle?

Thanks for the help.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Q #3 Answer? https://www.bmikarts.com/Double-Flange-Wheel-Hub-with-60T-35-Sprocket_p_2767.html

Racing wheels and "1 wheel peel" are a little like oil and water

 

[madprofessor]

Can I use something like this from BMI karts (https://www.bmikarts.com/Colored-Aluminum-Racing-Wheel-Hub-Front-with-58-Bearings_p_1632.html) for the 2 front wheels and 1 back right wheel?

Yes, you could do that if the bolt patterns match up from new hubs to existing wheels, and the hubs' bores fit your front spindles (front axles) (5/8"?) and the right rear axle stub (5/8"?). All 3 are free-spinning wheels on that setup, with each requiring its own 5/8" bearings (they're already in the BMI hubs) in the hubs for the spin.
Those hubs are on 2-1/2" bolt circles, so those wheels must be the same. The "dual pattern" description is really just "dual bolt sizes" of 1/4" or 5/16". You need a sprocket drum machined for an outside diameter (O.D.) band brake, or inside (I.D.) for expanding shoe brakes that will bolt up to a 2.5" bolt circle, or a sprocket that bolts up to a drum, or...............
Keep reading through the sites like that BMI site, GoPowerSports, OMB Warehouse, etc. to see different sizes, combos, etc................

 

[colinmergens]

Yes, you could do that if the bolt patterns match up from new hubs to existing wheels, and the hubs' bores fit your front spindles (front axles) (5/8"?) and the right rear axle stub (5/8"?). All 3 are free-spinning wheels on that setup, with each requiring its own 5/8" bearings (they're already in the BMI hubs) in the hubs for the spin.
Those hubs are on 2-1/2" bolt circles, so those wheels must be the same. The "dual pattern" description is really just "dual bolt sizes" of 1/4" or 5/16". You need a sprocket drum machined for an outside diameter (O.D.) band brake, or inside (I.D.) for expanding shoe brakes that will bolt up to a 2.5" bolt circle, or a sprocket that bolts up to a drum, or...............
Keep reading through the sites like that BMI site, GoPowerSports, OMB Warehouse, etc. to see different sizes, combos, etc................

Yeah the wheels do have a 2.5” circle. I’ll check those sites and see if I can find anything. The main problem I assume is that double flange hubs are all just 4 bolt patterns. I.e. race wheels are not intended to attach to sprocket and brakes, right?

 

[colinmergens]

Q #3 Answer? https://www.bmikarts.com/Double-Flange-Wheel-Hub-with-60T-35-Sprocket_p_2767.html

Racing wheels and "1 wheel peel" are a little like oil and water

I am learning it’s not an easy task. Do you say that because finding parts that work is difficult or more to do with tire tread/width etc?

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

I am learning it’s not an easy task. Do you say that because finding parts that work is difficult or more to do with tire tread/width etc?

I say that because racing karts use live axles, not "dead" axles. So finding a double flange, 5/8" bearing hub compatible with a racing wheel is like finding bigfoot. Note: I am not implying it is impossible.

 

[colinmergens]

I say that because racing karts use live axles, not "dead" axles. So finding a double flange, 5/8" bearing hub compatible with a racing wheel is like finding bigfoot. Note: I am not implying it is impossible.

Gotcha. Yeah that confirms what I thought.
so I probably would want to get a new drive wheel. Maybe there is one that fits the tire so I don’t need to buy a new one. I need the wheel to be 6.5” wide and 5” rim diameter, correct? But the other three free-spinning wheels could work with that hub?

 

[madprofessor]

if the bolt patterns match up from new hubs to existing wheels, and the hubs' bores fit your front spindles (front axles) (5/8"?) and the right rear axle stub (5/8"?)

Yes, those 3 would free-wheel just fine on those bearings that come already installed in the hubs.

 

[madprofessor]

Maybe there is one that fits the tire so I don’t need to buy a new one.

You're trying to get through this cheaply as possible, so no doubt you'd like to use existing tires and the wheels they mount on, but...........
Consider that your 10 x 4.00 tires and 11 x 6.50 tires are all tubeless tires. Doesn't mean you can't put tubes inside of them, although some would recommend against it. What it means for sure is that you must use 1-piece solid rims (5") unless there is a tube inside, and others can chime in here if a tubeless tire will even fit on a split rim, or is a no-go anytime.
Split rims come in 4", 5", 6" sizes, and you very easily slap the 2 halves together on the tire and bolt up. Stuff a tube (L-shaped stem only) inside and go. If you stay with the tubeless tires and 1-piece solid rims, having this or similar would be basically required.............
Mini-Tire Changer (harborfreight.com) ...............for 4" to 12" rims........... However, no tire changer ever needed with split rims like these with bearings inside ................ AZ1033 - 5" Steel Wheel, 3-3/8" wide, 3/4" ID Bearing | Go Kart & Mini Bike Parts | MFG Supply ............. or for a live axle rear end like these ................. AZ1032 - 5" Steel Wheel, 3-3/8" wide, 1" live axle. | Go Kart & Mini Bike Parts | MFG Supply.
I would call the various gokart parts houses and ask them about what tires are the right width for what rims, can tubeless be used on split rims, etc., and take that info from the source that'll have to take them back if they advise you incorrectly. Note that it's unlikely that any of the well-known parts houses will guide you incorrectly on that, they do it for a living.
Personally, I'm a fan of switching over to a live axle instead of the existing one-wheel-peel. Of course, that means a new axle, at least 2 axle bearings, 2 live axle rims with tires/tubes to fit, a sprocket or sprocket hub with a sprocket, some locking collars, and a disc brake setup
to make it the way I'd have it. However, you actually can use a sprocket/ brake drum combo instead of separates instead, and even use a double-flange to join it with one of the live axle split rims.