mudboat_josh
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Its the old style flywheel, has stock ignition timing.
212 Predator sputtering
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danssoslow
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I'll trust what mudboat says, ARC mentioned appropriate paperwork was being sent with them; and IiRC, it's only been maybe 2-3 weeks tops when the announcement was made.
Good. 
if it's stock timing, then there's nothing wrong with trying a timing key.
I just didn't want to ruin someone elses engine by suggesting a timing like 12° advanced (8° flywheel plus the 4 of the suggested key)
'sid
if it's stock timing, then there's nothing wrong with trying a timing key.
I just didn't want to ruin someone elses engine by suggesting a timing like 12° advanced (8° flywheel plus the 4 of the suggested key)
'sid
danssoslow
Member
Good.
if it's stock timing, then there's nothing wrong with trying a timing key.
I just didn't want to ruin someone elses engine by suggesting a timing like 12° advanced (8° flywheel plus the 4 of the suggested key)
'sid
I've never experiences one too advanced. Will it pop a head like a Top Fuel dragster explosion? I've been a bit hesitant to advance mine; and the builder said do it without the key! Too scared not to keep that little piece of mind.
That's the cool part about breaking stuff, though. Most of the time, it'll only happen once.
I never experienced a 200cc with too advanced timing either,
but frankly I'm not eager to see one failing at all
On my old car (Typ4 2.0l engine VW)
timing had to be set at 5200 rpm 27° bOT IIRC,
ten to twelve degrees more was quite some fun
the cool looking part with a more and more advanced timing you can shoot a serious flame from your exhaust.
The bad part was absolutely no low end power anymore, quite the opposite, the engine died below 3000 rpm.
my mechanic later advised me to NOT do that ever again (I told him about my 8 foot flames...)
since according to him there's a 'worst case scenario' just after the exhaust valve is closed, where things can get nasty.
(I can't remember all the things he listed ... something about piston rings failing, con rods breaking, crank bearings cracking etc.pp.)
Enough for me to not play with my timing that way ever again
And I think, although the predator is much smaller, much less powerfull and of course much cheaper, I think it's combustion still has enough power to at least pop a piston ring.
'sid
but frankly I'm not eager to see one failing at all
On my old car (Typ4 2.0l engine VW)
timing had to be set at 5200 rpm 27° bOT IIRC,
ten to twelve degrees more was quite some fun
the cool looking part with a more and more advanced timing you can shoot a serious flame from your exhaust.
The bad part was absolutely no low end power anymore, quite the opposite, the engine died below 3000 rpm.
my mechanic later advised me to NOT do that ever again (I told him about my 8 foot flames...)
since according to him there's a 'worst case scenario' just after the exhaust valve is closed, where things can get nasty.
(I can't remember all the things he listed ... something about piston rings failing, con rods breaking, crank bearings cracking etc.pp.)
Enough for me to not play with my timing that way ever again
And I think, although the predator is much smaller, much less powerfull and of course much cheaper, I think it's combustion still has enough power to at least pop a piston ring.
'sid
OzFab
Well-known member
The first thing I do when I buy a new (to me) car is advance the timing by about 4°; if it pings, I back it off a bit. Doing so gives the engine a little more punch low down.
I'm not sure about newer cars (there's probably something built into the ECU mapping) but, all older distributor run cars have a vacuum advance system, indicating that, as the RPM increases, so does the ignition timing, taking it closer to TDC than it is at idle...
I'm not sure about newer cars (there's probably something built into the ECU mapping) but, all older distributor run cars have a vacuum advance system, indicating that, as the RPM increases, so does the ignition timing, taking it closer to TDC than it is at idle...
?? Huh?
Well it's been quite some time since I had said car and engine,
but it was justthe opposite IIRC,
the higher the rpm the earlier the ignition timing...
And yes it had a fuel injection system (at first *gg*) but also with carbs it was earlier the faster it revs.
and by a good amount, as mentioned 27° bOT @ 5200 rppm..
and about 16° at idle.
or something, too long ago to remember exactly
'sid
danssoslow
Member
The Subaru EX has an advancing ignition coil; but it's all in before 1200rpm. Not exactly a performance set up. It would be sweet if someone could figure out how to make it advance later in the range. I don't know; maybe someone that lives in a place that actually supports Subaru racing, like Austrailia. Anyone here from Austrailia?
OzFab
Well-known member
You know, you're correct (don't know what I was thinking). Vacuum advance works at idle, wnen there's more vacuum; as the throttle opens, vacuum decreases, reducing the amount of advance...
It's all coming back to me now (it's been a while); when setting timing with a timing light, you must first disconnect the vacuum advance to gain a true reading...
Having said that, as RPM increases, then the centrifugal advance kicks in...
Now it's all getting a bit technical for go karts; back to basics me thinks
Anyone here from Austrailia?
:toetap05:
danssoslow
Member
Where's the Smiley of the fish nibbling at the bait?
Is this something you think you could figure out, if I were to provide some form of paperwork on it's design? There's a fine line between electrical work and electronics, but I'm no line stepper!
I don't know if it is the rectifier that makes it possible or what; but a useful electronic advance would be sweet!
Btw, you guys have all the goodies with AussieSpeed! Frankly, I'm jealous.
OzFab
Well-known member
Porbably not, I'm more machanical than electrical...
Seriously? You're jealous that we pay $179 for a flywheel?
Seriously? You're jealous that we pay $179 for a flywheel?
danssoslow
Member
Not to be that guy; but clone prices don't apply to me. Those Subaru parts they sell ar ALL that's being sold, minus the Subaru manufactured bits; but even those aren't readily available Stateside.
Even finding out info about the KX engine is riddled with sales pitches. They realize their monopoly.
*cough* *cough*
https://www.kart-schuette.de/karts/alu-schwungrad-cnc-honda-gx160-200.html
100 USD original price... [72.51 Euro or 104.30 AUD]
price in Australia 179 AuD = 171,63 USD
Price in germany 134 Euros = 184.61 USD
well
or should I say 
??'sid
OzFab
Well-known member
So, what you're trying to say is Subaru engines are like apple computers, which makes a Honda/clone like a windows PC & B&S like linux...
*cough* *cough*
https://www.kart-schuette.de/karts/alu-schwungrad-cnc-honda-gx160-200.html
100 USD original price... [72.51 Euro or 104.30 AUD]
price in Australia 179 AuD = 171,63 USD
Price in germany 134 Euros = 184.61 USD
well
'sid
My comment was directed at Dan, Sid but, I feel your pain.
Clutches & TCs are just now coming down to a reasonable price here but, I think that has more to do with the US economy being in the toilet than anything else...
danssoslow
Member
For utility/parts, I'd say Honda/clones are like Chevy, B&S is like Ford, and Subaru is like Buick (and that wouldn't be counting the 3.8T; were talking 455, maybe more 350).
Not the miserly choice for power, not at all.
mudboat_josh
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Ok guys, i drill the jet out more and its almost as big as the emulsion tube opening but im still seeing some white residue on the plug suggesting its running lean. When i pull the plug out to have a look, the plug looks wet. First through it was running too rich and fuel was on the plug, but the wetness wasnt evaporating making me think its oil. Is it possible my rings are fubar, venting oil in to the combustion chamber and letting compression escape?
OzFab
Well-known member
Anything is possible & that would explain a thing or two. For example, burning oil leaves a white residue on spark plugs but, I'm still a little confused about the carb; the jet is huge but it's still not supplying enough fuel?
Perhaps you need to upgrade the carb to something like a Mikuni that will deliver more fuel. I'm sure there's a recent thread somewhere that describes a Mikuni providing too much fuel...
EDIT: Here it is
Perhaps you need to upgrade the carb to something like a Mikuni that will deliver more fuel. I'm sure there's a recent thread somewhere that describes a Mikuni providing too much fuel...
EDIT: Here it is
mudboat_josh
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Took the head off and found plenty of oil in the cylinder. How the heck does this happen, rings? Keep in mind this engine only has about 12 hours of run time on it.
danssoslow
Member
That holeto the right of the piston is where the oil drains back into the case from the head, isn't it? It looks aweful wet around that area.
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