2015 - Learning Experience

[2SlickNick]

I wonder if a machine shop could drill and tap out a hole maybe 3/8" diameter maybe 1.5"deep in to the axle....? Then maybe get a bolt and washer to secure it. Kind of like side shaft engine.

 

[HippieHeadShot]

Why didn't I think of that?! that is a great idea sir!

This is why I come here! Now I just need to figure out if there is even a machine shop near me....

 

[chancer]

Darn nick! so Slick. I should thought of that. My daughters kart works exactly as explained by Nick. I know from experience it will definitely work.

 

[firemanjim]

I wonder if a machine shop could drill and tap out a hole maybe 3/8" diameter maybe 1.5"deep in to the axle....? Then maybe get a bolt and washer to secure it. Kind of like side shaft engine.

I'd go with a 7/16 or 1/2".... And a 1/8" thick washer....

 

[HippieHeadShot]

UPDATE

Got quite a bit done today! Still have more to do but need to take a brake, been at it for a few hours now.

• Front A-arm frame welded - brackets being machined at a local machine shop for the a-arms and shocks.
  
• Rear axle installed- local machine shop was able to drill and tap the ends solving my short-axle-no-room-for-nut problem!
  
• Live axle sprocket and Brake rotor installed - Will be adding on the caliper here shortly.

The engine mount and brake caliper will happen tonight if I don't get trapped by the wife inside!

PICS! - Just ignore the mess of my workbench!

 

[chancer]

Cool Axle. Looks factory, You got that done fast. I dropped my parts at a machine shop this AM and have not heard back. On my Kart with those axle bolts, they fell off once or twice. Now I just tighten the poop out of them and no problems.

 

[2SlickNick]

Looking good Alec! Hope you at least did 1/2" like Jim said...

 

[HippieHeadShot]

Looking good Alec! Hope you at least did 1/2" like Jim said...

I DID .... not... it is 3/8 and 1-1/2 deep. The only machine shop that could accommodate for a 40'' rod said 1/2 would be to much cut away due to the key-way.

She is on SUPER tight and it's now a perfect fit. after I'm for sure done with the axle I plan on thread locking the out of the nut.

 

[chancer]

Mine is 3/8 too.

 

[2SlickNick]

Oh....true.

 

[HippieHeadShot]

Going to run by my metal supplier tomorrow morning, here is my idea for mounting the engine:

1.5" W x 3" H x 12" L Steel tubing that I can weld onto the frame.
Needs to be at lest 2.25" H so the TC plate clears the frame. This will let me mount the engine right over the drive sprocket, giving me as close to 0 chain pitch and a shorter chain, which I assume will lessen power loss and the chance of the chain breaking.

 

[chancer]

engine mount plates are usually slotted. So you can move engine back and forth to adjust chain tension. It looks like you would have to slot those steel pipes.

 

[HippieHeadShot]

engine mount plates are usually slotted. So you can move engine back and forth to adjust chain tension. It looks like you would have to slot those steel pipes.

Wouldn't that be prone slipping with vibration over time? I do plan on getting a peace of flat steel to put on top so its leveled

 

[chancer]

I totally feel what you are thinking. On my first build I bought grade 8 fine thread bolts (so I could tighten the p out of them) and lock washers and nylocks. We only ride on hard pack bumpy dirt, the engines do not slip.
You need slotted holes, as you move the engine and clutch the axle stays and that is about the only way to adjust chain tension. The chain does stretch as it breaks in and will need adjusting. Shop around for engine mounting plates you will see they are all slotted about 1"
http://gokartgalaxy.com/az8190.jpg

 

[HippieHeadShot]

got the engine mount finished and welded up today.

I decided to try it out with just straight engine bolt holes, worst case scenario I can make some slotted pretty easily.

 

[HippieHeadShot]

After thinking about it I went ahead and added the slots to play it safe. Got the engine mounted up and chain resized to fit.

She is alive! Waiting on steering and a arm mounts to arrive so I'm at a stopping point for a few days.

 

[landuse]

Nice. Is there any reason though why you didn't move the one piece of square tubing over to the left. Look at my pic

 

[chancer]

Nice. Is there any reason though why you didn't move the one piece of square tubing over to the left. Look at my pic

I can guess. I have a kart with a mount like that. IT makes it a pain in the to get a wrench on the bolt.
A suggestion I did not mention on my razor was to make a capital I for the mount and use heavier steel for the plate for easy bolt access.

 

[HippieHeadShot]

Nice. Is there any reason though why you didn't move the one piece of square tubing over to the left. Look at my pic

just because the space and trying to get to the engine mount bolts having it sent and like that takes the weight of the engine and distributes it properly but also let me get to the bolts without having to shove a wrench in there funny. The plate is 1/2 inch steel, tubing is 16 gage. It is solid as a rock!

sorry I haven't updated in a couple days but I've had quite a bit of an issue with the arms. my original a arm mounts don't allow enough room for the tires to angle correctly. So I've been fighting with that. Also my spindles were shipped out wrong, sent 3 3/4 when I ordered 4 1/2

On the positive side I have the engine all mounted up and the chain sized correctly with about 1/4 in of play after running her for awhile.

I'm off tomorrow and will update with a few pictures and my resized a arms.

 

[chancer]

Holy Cow. that plate must weigh mot than the engine