2012 hammerhead 250

Hellion

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View attachment 159546View attachment 159548View attachment 159549
Ok here’s some pictures of the rear end. The bottom picture that I’m pointing in, is that the magneto?

Egad, that thing is a peach with those rear suspension arms; fully independent trailing link suspension with CV joints. You don’t see that very often but it sure seems to de-clutter the rear—the attachment points/pivot is right behind the passenger compartment, instead of right by the drive shafts..😎

Does the radiator have a cooling fan or no?
 

Karttekk

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It looks like these harnesses are no longer available. Wondering if the Trailmaster machines use the same or similar harnesses. Use this dealer locator to see if one close to you might have one: https://www.hammerheadoffroad.com/locate-a-dealer/

***6.100.253 IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE, HOWEVER YOU CAN USE PART # 6.000.253 AS THE CLOSEST REPLACEMENT. FOR THE 6.000.253 REPLACEMENT, THE TEMP SENSOR MIGHT BE DIFFERENT AND YOU MAY LOSE THE POWER PLUG FOR THE REAR SPEAKERS***
 

Tucsonhammerhead

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Egad, that thing is a peach with those rear suspension arms; fully independent trailing link suspension with CV joints. You don’t see that very often but it sure seems to de-clutter the rear—the attachment points/pivot is right behind the passenger compartment, instead of right by the drive shafts..😎

Does the radiator have a cooling fan or no?
Ya the radiator has dual cooling fans plus there’s a secondary small radiator at the front of the kart
 

Tucsonhammerhead

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It looks like these harnesses are no longer available. Wondering if the Trailmaster machines use the same or similar harnesses. Use this dealer locator to see if one close to you might have one: https://www.hammerheadoffroad.com/locate-a-dealer/

***6.100.253 IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE, HOWEVER YOU CAN USE PART # 6.000.253 AS THE CLOSEST REPLACEMENT. FOR THE 6.000.253 REPLACEMENT, THE TEMP SENSOR MIGHT BE DIFFERENT AND YOU MAY LOSE THE POWER PLUG FOR THE REAR SPEAKERS***
Definitely gonna check that out thanks for this
 

Karttekk

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What you might try while you're sorting this out is start with a charged battery. Run a FUSED red wire from the key switch (if there's one there) to the positive battery terminal and a ground wire from the key switch to the negative battery terminal. Green is usually ground. Run a red HOT wire from the positive battery terminal to one post of the solenoid and a red HOT wire from the other solenoid post to the starter. Look on the back of the key switch for the correct terminals to run wires from. See if the engine will at least crank. If you get this far, see if you can figure out the wiring from the CDI, coil, and stator (usually a blue/white wire). When the engine rotates, the stator/magneto & flywheel fires the trigger which in turn tells the CDI to fire the coil or something close to this. A multi-meter and a 12 volt test light are your best friends here.

 

Karttekk

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Tucson, it looks like you're out of luck with finding any factory harnesses. I emailed that Buggy Parts place, they said they're no longer in stock anywhere. Maybe fabricate them from the schematics provided or try and repair what you have. The main things are getting power to the starter and getting spark. The horn lights, speedo and everything else can wait.
 

Tucsonhammerhead

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Karttek I had a feeling it was gonna come to that lol just wanted to see if I’d be able to find the parts and weigh the options before I started tearing into the wiring. I had to order a new coil, CDI, resistor and solenoid as the entire electric box had been ripped out haha
 

Karttekk

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It's a shame people get in over their heads with these things and start chopping wires, shorting out components then give up and dump them, leaving the next buyer a rat nest to deal with. That's why I said deal with getting power to the starter and getting spark first then worry about the bells and whistles. If nothing else it's been a valuable learning experience. He mentions don't always try matching wire colors. I fixed one by doing just that. I had power with the key off and no power with the key on. I pushed out then reinserted the green and red wires in the new key switch to match the wires in the harness and it worked. Stay with it, I think you'll get it going.
 

Tucsonhammerhead

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That video is incredibly helpful. I just watch part 1 and 2 and it’s so in depth and helping a lot with my wiring issues. Thank you for sharing that karttekk. Hopefully I’ll be able to work on it this weekend and provide some more updates soon
 
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