2 seater Frame size

adzo64

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Hi everyone a quick question about frame sizes. I am in the process of designing a two seater car for my kids. Was wondering if someone can help me start off in the right direction regarding frame width. I am after a rough size guide for a two seater cart similar to something like the Manco dingo. Help is much appreciated. Thanks, Adam
 

ONE-EYE

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I'm re-doing my seat now on my yerf dog (probably about the same size) if you'd like those measurements? The seat will be slightly smaller than the frame if you decide to put sliders on it verses stationary.
 

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madprofessor

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Decide on your drivetrain first. The axle width you choose from what's available, and the hubs that go on it, and the tire width will all together guide you on frame width. Width to outside of tires should be the max width of the seat, and seat should be narrower than that if you don't want elbows hitting trees. Width to the inside of the tires should be the max width of the frame in the rear, less a little bit.
Making your own seat? Buying one with its own frame and mounts? I bought a tailgating seat for mine from Wally Mart, and it's extra wide when the armrests are figured in, they'll hit stuff first. Fortunately my kart's almost 4' wide.
Ozark Trail Easy-Folding Padded Outdoor Tailgating Couch, Camo Green - Walmart.com
 

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adzo64

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Yes please ONE EYE, the width of that seat frame would be perfect.

thanks madprofessor. I am after a guide to get me started as I am marking my own drive drive, lucky enough to have access to a metal lathe. And then I’ll make all other customs parts so sizes can be flexible. The info about tire spacing width is great too. Thank you both
 

Denny

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The width to the outside of tires should be at least 1/2 a tire wider. It helps with stability in turns at high speed to keep the kart from flipping over easily. I myself try to make my track width as wide as possible to keep the kart more stable in hard cornering. No real rule on it though, just my 2 cents.
 

madprofessor

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The width to the outside of tires should be at least 1/2 a tire wider.
If your expected riding areas and storage and possible trailer for it will allow it, you can't hardly make the footprint too wide. The wider it is, the more likely it is that you'll slide in a hard turn rather than roll over.
Denny's dead on the mark about that, and my 2 cents is if the conditions above are met, go tri-wide. Just build the frame out to it, instead of just having a bunch of axle sticking way out from the outside axle bearing, it'll bend.
 

adzo64

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Sorry Denny are you sayng the frame should be half a tire wider the rear wheels? So the tires are narrower than the frame?
 

adzo64

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Madproffesor- I’m trying to make it compact as I want to transport it to areas I can drive it so not too big
 

ONE-EYE

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Yes please ONE EYE, the width of that seat frame would be perfect.

thanks madprofessor. I am after a guide to get me started as I am marking my own drive drive, lucky enough to have access to a metal lathe. And then I’ll make all other customs parts so sizes can be flexible. The info about tire spacing width is great too. Thank you both
So the wood that I'm mounting would probably be a better measurement. It's 32-1/2" x 15" with rounded corners. It fits me and my 6 yr old daughter good but would be tight for 2 adults. I'll get you some better measurements and pictures in the daylight tomorrow (I just leave everything outside since I don't have garage space lol)
 

adzo64

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So the wood that I'm mounting would probably be a better measurement. It's 32-1/2" x 15" with rounded corners. It fits me and my 6 yr old daughter good but would be tight for 2 adults. I'll get you some better measurements and pictures in the daylight tomorrow (I just leave everything outside since I don't have garage space lol)
Thanks so much. Pics would be amazing when you can.
 

ONE-EYE

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Thanks so much. Pics would be amazing when you can.
So since there are only 2 holes for the T-nuts to go for mounting, I cut the wood slightly larger so that the frame would support the seat on all 4 sides. There's a weldment on the back for connecting seatbelts. This one is considered a "high back" with a slight lean backward so it doesn't feel like it's pushing you forward. I scored a used pair of sliders for $10 at BMI KARTS that just needed cleaned and lubed so the seat will be kinda like stock. I do however recommend using ply wood (3/4") instead of the weaker OSB. That's why I'm having to replace it anyhow because it became busted and rotted out. They sell seats for around $100 but I'm making my own with plywood and the false leather from a mustang backseat with some old foam that was originally on it.
 

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madprofessor

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I only used 1/2" plywood under my seat, but I did at least add pieces of angle iron all the way around underneath it so it would be supported on all 4 sides like One-eye's above. Here's why I only needed 1/2" plywood for the seating on top of it (steel frame inside)...................
Stadium Bleacher Seat For 2 Adjustable Tailgate Truck Padded Cushion Couch Black (luxiranau.com)
I highly recommend finding something you like the way I did on that seat (mine's red to match the kart), unless you're great with a sewing machine for the cover and can find a very dense hard foam that won't completely squash down under your weight, get plywood-butt bruises.
 

ONE-EYE

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I only used 1/2" plywood under my seat, but I did at least add pieces of angle iron all the way around underneath it so it would be supported on all 4 sides like One-eye's above. Here's why I only needed 1/2" plywood for the seating on top of it (steel frame inside)...................
Stadium Bleacher Seat For 2 Adjustable Tailgate Truck Padded Cushion Couch Black (luxiranau.com)
I highly recommend finding something you like the way I did on that seat (mine's red to match the kart), unless you're great with a sewing machine for the cover and can find a very dense hard foam that won't completely squash down under your weight, get plywood-butt bruises.
I really like that seat! Especially since it has some side support too. Not a bad price either! If I run into any trouble fabricating mine, I might just go that route too lol. I just had my compressor handy, the old foam looked ok, and found some cheap pleather so thought I'd just tack it to the wood. I do really like that though so I'll definitely keep it in my mind. I have a feeling that I'll be clinching my butt cheeks so much that I'll probably get a few tears in that cheap pleather pretty quick anyway 🤣
 

adzo64

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So since there are only 2 holes for the T-nuts to go for mounting, I cut the wood slightly larger so that the frame would support the seat on all 4 sides. There's a weldment on the back for connecting seatbelts. This one is considered a "high back" with a slight lean backward so it doesn't feel like it's pushing you forward. I scored a used pair of sliders for $10 at BMI KARTS that just needed cleaned and lubed so the seat will be kinda like stock. I do however recommend using ply wood (3/4") instead of the weaker OSB. That's why I'm having to replace it anyhow because it became busted and rotted out. They sell seats for around $100 but I'm making my own with plywood and the false leather from a mustang backseat with some old foam that was originally on it.
This looks great. Thank you. I like the slider idea too as my kids are different heights so that will help. I’ll look at making my own upholstered seat in a similar way to this. You’ve been a massive help! Cheers!
 
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